Solar controller question

[trevskoda]

I actually have fuses after the panel cable comes into the van as I didn’t realise the Votronic fuse did that when I first got it. I also have a Victron controller though (one panel to each) so it wasn’t wasted

Makers print instructions to be read, same as whn you buy a car/bike/outboard, iv sold two stroke outboard engines to only have them back sezed because of no oil mixed with fuel, even though i went through it with the numpties at point of sale.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Dont fuse the battery side of contoler as if it blows then damage to unit may happen, do fuse all components wired of the battery.

That makes no sense to me Trev, I put a fuse next to the battery on all cables to protect the wiring.

 

[merl]

That makes no sense to me Trev, I put a fuse next to the battery on all cables to protect the wiring.

I guess this is one of those situations where you have to decide between the lesser of two evils.
As you say if you don't have a fuse at the battery on it's supply to the controller then you have an unprotected cable but as we've already covered in this thread Kev, the solar controller output MUST be connected to the battery to keep the controller safe. If you put a fuse between the controller and the battery and that fuse fails then that important connection isn't there anymore.
As has already been touched on a similar dilemma exists when your van has a master switch on the hab battery because that will isolate the controller from the battery too but the notion of wiring anything directly back to the battery seems dodgy.
I cant think of a perfect solution but I'd fuse it on it's own with the largest fuse I could while still protecting the cable. I'd add an appropriate warning at the fuse about it supplying the solar, would be interested in any better suggestions though.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Hmm, yes fair point Sir, and no argument as I know SFA about this stuff hence my proliferation of fuses, but what happens if the controller to battery cable shorts to the chassis? which could happen in a self-build or dare I say it, a proper coach built the way they chuck them together these days..

 

[merl]

Hmm, yes fair point Sir, and no argument as I know SFA about this stuff hence my proliferation of fuses, but what happens if the controller to battery cable shorts to the chassis? which could happen in a self-build or dare I say it, a proper coach built the way they chuck them together these days..

True, that's why I'd personally fuse it as you've done, I'd sooner lose my controller rather than the whole van!
You could wire a cheap 12v buzzer across the fuse that would sound after the fuse had blown and there was either :
a short to chassis
the solar was trying to charge the battery
So you'd get a warning that something was amiss.
I'm not sure if the buzzers are bi directional but if not then you'd need 2 in parallel wired opposite each other.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Not much use if you're out for the day though, I'll stick with a fuse I think.

 

[merl]

Not much use if you're out for the day though, I'll stick with a fuse I think.

You're still using the fuse Kev but the buzzer will give you a warning if it's blows. Not failsafe but arguably better than just a fuse on it's own.

 

[trevskoda]

That makes no sense to me Trev, I put a fuse next to the battery on all cables to protect the wiring.

Yes but not the one from the control solar unit, from battery to outlets yes, to much fecken honey me lad.