Solar connection for elektrobloc

[winks]

View attachment SOLAR PANEL CONNECTION.pdf

This may be of interest to someone. It should be a .pdf.c:

Cheers

H

 

[maingate]

If you buy the Schaudt solar regulator, it comes with a modified connector (which takes a few seconds to fit) and voila, your engine battery will be charged from solar too.

The time, cost and effort to do this by other means makes the Schaudt LR/LRM 1218 well worth buying.

 

[saxonborg]

You would be daft to buy a Schaude solar controller.

What would your recommendation be?, I am just about to purchase an LRM1218 to go wth my EBL, it would be good to save a few quid without sacrificing the ease of connection of the Schaudt equipment.

 

[maingate]

I'm sure you have read it. The forums are full of people passing on misinformation based on ignorance and hearsay.

I have seen the wiring diagrams of several Electrobloc units (not all, admittedly, but I doubt they differ: there is no point) and I can assure you that ANY make or model of solar controller will work in exactly the same way when conneted to an Electrobloc.

All the Electrobloc does is act as a connection block. There is nothing inside the "solar" circuits except joining the connections together.

The reason the dealers connect straight to the battery is that it's the easiest way to do it. The only snag is that it will bypass the ammeter.

Not quite true.

If the solar connection is made via the EBL, the charging rate (amps) and voltage can be seen on the Control Panel in the vehicle.

 

[maingate]

What do you think the words "The only snag is that it will bypass the ammeter." mean? Is there another meaning other than exactly what you "corrected"?

So you are recommending buying an unknown brand of MPPT controller from China and then if you need to track the voltage and amps, additionally buying equipment and fitting it so you can see the result?

I can find 2 potential problems with that. But hey, what do I know?

 

[Deleted member 9849]

I haven't used the schaudt elektroblok for my solar panel connection to the leisure batteries for 2 reasons...

1/ I had a solar regulator and Nasa BM1 unit knocking around which do the job and give me details of the leisure batteries SOC.Doing it this way does bypass the fitted analogue ammeter in the van but the BM1 compensates for this.

2/ I am tight and didn't want to pay the price of the schaudt solar equipment.

 

[Deleted member 9849]

To be honest, I have paid a Kings Ransom for our new van, which has not met expectations, but an extra few quid to just plug in and go, is not a problem, and guess what? It:idea-007: works well!

I agree Graham,when compared with the cost of a new motorhome we are talking about saving peanuts.The only reason that I wired the solar panels in differently is because I had all the necessary equipment available that was cannibalised from a previous van,otherwise I would probably have bought the schaudt gear.

 

[Nabsim]

I agree Graham,when compared with the cost of a new motorhome we are talking about saving peanuts.The only reason that I wired the solar panels in differently is because I had all the necessary equipment available that was cannibalised from a previous van,otherwise I would probably have bought the schaudt gear.

Also depends how much solar you fit, if like me the EBL will only take a max of 15 amps you may need to bypass anyway.

 

[Nabsim]

Rgarding how much solar, we have only one 100 watt panel and it does us just well.
We only use our van in sunny Euroland and we are normally off grid. We are not power hungry, everything is 12 volt and gas.
We do notice that some members here have lots of solar panels and go to meets, but we also notice that they always request hook up!
Seems to defeat the idea!
If we were winter camping in the uK, yes we would probably fit an extra panel, but as the Wilder usually go on electric, is it worth the bother.
! X 100 watt and one battery does us well!
More money for vino!:lol-053:

It all depends what you use Graham, we have a compressor fridge and charge our watches, iPads and laptops and 4g router as well as if we want to watch the telly. I have gone for 300w at the moment but we will be using it over the winter both here and in France and will be avoiding hook up if we can and we like to just pull up anywhere. Not used a hook up since we got it all fitted, so far so good but weather has been mainly tropical until last few weeks

Edit: Oh yes, we dont drink either haha

 

[Deleted member 9849]

Well, what you don't know is how to read. Nowhere did isuggest what you say. Stop trying to put words in my mouth. I didn't recommend any of that.

Of course, you don't know which maker built the Schaude unit. You can be fairly sure it was imported.

Jim might not be able to read but at least he can spell Schaudt.

 

[Nabsim]

Not true. Inside the electrobloc, the connections and printed circuit track would take a huge current. The only limiting factor is the default fuse rasting. I'm confident that you could manage to fit a bigger fuse.
It's irrational to even think there is a 15A limit, when the Schaude controller under discussion is a 20A one.

If you read again you will see I typed 'if like me' the limit on mine is 15 amps and I am not prepared to put more than that through it, If you wish to put more through yours then thats fine, run some tests on how much it takes and post them up. If Alan at A and N says dont do it thats good enough for me.

 

[Trotter]

I've not read all of this thread, so if the following has already been said then....... tough:bow:

When I fitted my solar I had the option of fitting the correct German made controller. This was £186. Yes I could charge my vehicle battery as well as the leisure with it. Looking on line I saw the whole kit, 100w panel, cable, feet, inlet box, MPPT controller, even Sikaflex for £196. For that money, charging the vehicle battery came very low on my list of priorities. I'm more than happy with my DIY project. Especially compared to the price quoted by a local Motorhome Specialist, £800 ish. Bl**dy rip off merchant.

 

[Nabsim]

You wrote that you can only take 15A and that your electrobloc can only take 15A. I only commented on the electrobloc current. It is entirely wrong to assert there is a 15A limit. The regulator sold to work with the unit is a 20A one.

For my EBL the correct Schaudt controller is not the mppt (lrm?) unit which I believe is outputting 14amps max. Without looking it up again I am not 100%

 

[Hughendon]

That's a really useful document :bow:.
I'd skipped through it first time then reading carefully I see that I can "scotchlok" a link between the starter battery connection on the LR1218 and the pin 3 on the EBL208 and so charge the starter battery when off-grid (or parked in the drive).
I'll try that after the weekend.