Rust treatment?

[whitevanwoman]

I jet sprayed a year of dirt off the Transit today and found some alarming rust patches along the sills and bubbling on one of the front wings.

I've got a tin of Metal Care paint which says :
"can be applied directly onto rust... corrosion protection and enamel in one"

According to the directions, rust area should be wired brushed and cleaned with spirit to remove grease etc before several coats of this stuff.

Is it worth treating the rust area first either with something like Jenolite (can you still get this? I haven't used it for years) or Rust Remedy before painting?

I've also got some silver zinc paint, should I give the rust patch a coat of that before painting it with the Metal Care paint?

I presume that I should try to get as much of the rust off as possible and get to bare metal if I can.

Not had a proper good look yet, hoping that there's not going to be any bare metal edges, if there is then I'll have a trip over to see a friend who runs his own body workshop and ask him to check it over. If it's only minor then I'll fill it and paint it myself otherwise I'll get him to do it and if I can afford it, I'll get him to do a protective spray underneath (not sure what it's called but I know he does that).

What kind of price would I be looking at for getting it sprayed underneath - just roughly so I know how much to put aside. Hopefully he might be able to do me mates rates but it depends how much work he's got and whether he can afford to. I don't mind paying him normal rates as I know he'll do a good job.

Any other advice?

 

[sparrks]

Any holes I cut, which then obviously have exposed bare metal, I always thoroughly degrease and the paint with Cold Galvanizing Fluid and then a top coat. Never had any problems with rust afterward. Try to get down to bare metal where possible and treat accordingly.

 

[trevskoda]

rust

I jet sprayed a year of dirt off the Transit today and found some alarming rust patches along the sills and bubbling on one of the front wings.

I've got a tin of Metal Care paint which says :
"can be applied directly onto rust... corrosion protection and enamel in one"

According to the directions, rust area should be wired brushed and cleaned with spirit to remove grease etc before several coats of this stuff.

Is it worth treating the rust area first either with something like Jenolite (can you still get this? I haven't used it for years) or Rust Remedy before painting?

I've also got some silver zinc paint, should I give the rust patch a coat of that before painting it with the Metal Care paint?

I presume that I should try to get as much of the rust off as possible and get to bare metal if I can.

Not had a proper good look yet, hoping that there's not going to be any bare metal edges, if there is then I'll have a trip over to see a friend who runs his own body workshop and ask him to check it over. If it's only minor then I'll fill it and paint it myself otherwise I'll get him to do it and if I can afford it, I'll get him to do a protective spray underneath (not sure what it's called but I know he does that).

What kind of price would I be looking at for getting it sprayed underneath - just roughly so I know how much to put aside. Hopefully he might be able to do me mates rates but it depends how much work he's got and whether he can afford to. I don't mind paying him normal rates as I know he'll do a good job.

Any other advice?

hi there is no magic rust cure in a tin ,hamerite or any other rubbish as a ex anticorosive engineer i can tell you that it will come back in weeks. you must have the bad metal removed welded up and solder filled,then prime with 2 pack zink rich epoxy primer then finish paint regards trev.

 

[whitevanwoman]

hi there is no magic rust cure in a tin ,hamerite or any other rubbish as a ex anticorosive engineer i can tell you that it will come back in weeks. you must have the bad metal removed welded up and solder filled,then prime with 2 pack zink rich epoxy primer then finish paint regards trev.

Thanks for that. Unfortunately after £1700 of repairs since Nov, there simply is no more money for a while to spend on it so all I can do is to try to halt the spread of the rust and buy myself a few months time until I can get surgery done on it. Having had 2 Citroen 2CVs whose chassis ended up having more welding and patches than original floor, and sills which were like sieves (luckily 20 years ago the MOT rules on rust weren't so strict) I'm resigned to the fact that once rust has got a hold, only drastic surgery will cure it and even then unless its a clean cure it will still come back.

So I just want to try to slow the damage down or stop it from getting any worse for a while - even if only for a few months. I don't mind putting in the time to clean it up as much as possible with drill and wire brush and probably until I do that I won't know the extent of it.

 

[sparrks]

I do find that Waxoyl does seem to work if the corrosion is only light, great in box sections of chassis, but not so good if you got to weld there later.

As trevskoda there is only one way of properly culling the rust, but you're probably more intrested cost wise, in containing it. Strip away as much rust as possible - degrease before applying a paint, I use Cold Galvaizing paint.

A couple of links.

Cold galvanizing is not galvanizing – Facts about zinc rich paint

galvatech2000

Galvafroid

I'll let you make up your mind as to what suits you. I have found products like Jenolite, krust etc to be very poor. Just my experience.

 

[whitevanwoman]

Thanks Sparks, I think there's probably no substitute for some hard work with a wire brush in the first instance. I'll get some pics once I've cleaned it up a bit and can see what the damage is.

 

[splitty67]

I've got a LWB Transit which I had steam-cleaned two years ago when I first bought it,the floor and chassis were in exceptionally good condition for the year apart from slight rust damage at the rear wheel arches. After allowing it to completely dry out I welded the arches then hit the underside with eight litres of Schutts underbody protection,it's the same formulation as Waxoyl so equally as good,but a third of the price,so that ought to see me through a few more winters. An old gent I once met owned a 1950's Morris Oxford from new,and he told me that every two years he would mix grease and used diesel sump oil,(a petrol engine's sump oil contains acid) 50/50 and cover everything in sight except flexible brake lines. You could wipe anywhere underneath that car and see the original paint,it was pristine. He said some MOT testers didn't like poking around in grease and oil but the way he figured it,they didn't have to like it,as long as it did the job and kept everything in good order,besides,they had plenty Swarfega around the place.

 

[Evs54]

I jet sprayed a year of dirt off the Transit today and found some alarming rust patches along the sills and bubbling on one of the front wings.

The best stuff I find is Fertan easy to apply with brush or spray I use it on my classic cars great stuff you will find it on ebay expensive but one of the better ones cost you around £15 for 500ml .