Question regarding Victron b2b

[mistericeman]

Currently everything in the van solar etc is Victron (mains charger/inverter for fridge/smart shunt/solar regulator and raspberry pi4 running venus software )

The only thing that isn't is the B2B charger ...which is a ring rscdc30 combined solar/b2b (solar side developed the well documented not waking up after night time )
So now just looks after engine charging ...

I've never been massively impressed after it failed ...

So now thinking of replacing it with Victron (unsurprisingly )

Question is all my other victron gear(barring the mains charger) are connected via ve/USB leads ...

The victron b2b I've looked at so far appear to just have Bluetooth connectivity (no ve leads)
So am I right thinking that will just connect to the pi4 without plugging in ?

And do I go for a 30 (same as the solar) or stretch to the 50

3 x 100ah agm batteries
And standard alternator

Summertime is never a problem as the solar manages without issue ....
It's mostly for the darker parts of the year
When we usually move around or at least go in search of places to eat/walk the dogs each day .

 

[wildebus]

Currently everything in the van solar etc is Victron (mains charger/inverter for fridge/smart shunt/solar regulator and raspberry pi4 running venus software )

The only thing that isn't is the B2B charger ...which is a ring rscdc30 combined solar/b2b (solar side developed the well documented not waking up after night time )
So now just looks after engine charging ...

I've never been massively impressed after it failed ...

So now thinking of replacing it with Victron (unsurprisingly )

Question is all my other victron gear(barring the mains charger) are connected via ve/USB leads ...

The victron b2b I've looked at so far appear to just have Bluetooth connectivity (no ve leads)
So am I right thinking that will just connect to the pi4 without plugging in ?

Nope, you will need to get a VE.Direct - USB Lead like the other stuff if you want to connect.
However ... as you have noticed, the Smart-Tr Orion does NOT have a VE.Direct port, so you cannot connect This has always been a limitation of the Orion-Tr.

And do I go for a 30 (same as the solar) or stretch to the 50

50A all day long over the 30A.
The 50A unit as well as having a greater output has other advantages such as running cooler and being fully controllable. Another advantage which you will like is that the Orion-XS 50A DOES have a VE.Direct port so you can bring it into your Victron world.

3 x 100ah agm batteries
And standard alternator

Summertime is never a problem as the solar manages without issue ....
It's mostly for the darker parts of the year
When we usually move around or at least go in search of places to eat/walk the dogs each day .

 

[mistericeman]

Nope, you will need to get a VE.Direct - USB Lead like the other stuff if you want to connect.
However ... as you have noticed, the Smart-Tr Orion does NOT have a VE.Direct port, so you cannot connect This has always been a limitation of the Orion-Tr.


50A all day long over the 30A.
The 50A unit as well as having a greater output has other advantages such as running cooler and being fully controllable. Another advantage which you will like is that the Orion-XS 50A DOES have a VE.Direct port so you can bring it into your Victron world.

Thank you ....
that makes sense and backs up what I was thinking ..

Is the xs50 available in isolated flavour as well as none isolated ...?


The Ring is currently wired isolated (+/- input and +/- output)
I've only seen the xs50 in none isolated flavour so far .

 

[wildebus]

Thank you ....
that makes sense and backs up what I was thinking ..

Is the xs50 available in isolated flavour as well as none isolated ...?


The Ring is currently wired isolated (+/- input and +/- output)
I've only seen the xs50 in none isolated flavour so far .

Pretty sure it is none-isolated only. Are your leisure electrics isolated from the starter battery/van chassis?

When the Orion-Tr first came out, it was tricky to get hold of the non-isolated versions and I used to just get the isolated version and connect the two negatives to a common cable. If you actually have a common ground via chassis, you could just ignore one of your -ve cables, or connect together?

 

[mistericeman]

Pretty sure it is none-isolated only. Are your leisure electrics isolated from the starter battery/van chassis?

When the Orion-Tr first came out, it was tricky to get hold of the non-isolated versions and I used to just get the isolated version and connect the two negatives to a common cable. If you actually have a common ground via chassis, you could just ignore one of your -ve cables, or connect together?

I've run seperate earth's for everything I've fitted ...
Though I don't doubt Swift being swift HAVE used the chassis in places ...

I'm happy to just run the seperate earth's I have in the Ring Rscd30 into the common earth on the none isolated earth on the orion though ....
From memory the isolated side of things mainly related to marine installations to avoid extra corrosion of the hull .

 

[wildebus]

I've run seperate earth's for everything I've fitted ...
Though I don't doubt Swift being swift HAVE used the chassis in places ...

For sure the original habitation electrics will be chassis grounded via the Sargent PDU - the White and Orange cables are the DC Ground wires so you won't have an isolated leisure system.
I would suggest joining the two negative cables together at the B2B point when you change it.

I'm happy to just run the seperate earth's I have in the Ring Rscd30 into the common earth on the none isolated earth on the orion though ....

you'll have to join them outside the Orion - the connectors won't be large enough to accomodate both. My B2Bs use 6mm studs so I just stack the two negatives - one from Starter, one to Leisure - together on the connector.

From memory the isolated side of things mainly related to marine installations to avoid extra corrosion of the hull .

Basically yes,. That is my understanding.