PWM or MPPT regulator

Val54

Val54

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I can't find any info on the web relating to a CS Evolution RE-CSE0240 regulator. One was fitted to our van with a 110 amp panel but I'm not sure whether it is PWM or MPPT, anyone help?
BA211FF0-BDBE-488B-9414-861EE391C081.jpeg
 
I managed to find a spec sheet for this. No mention is made of it being an MPPT controller.
I am sure if it was the manufacturer would have highlighted this.
Some PWM controllers give no notice that they are PWM, I suspect that this is the case here.
I use the Victron MPPT with bluetooth.
You only need the 15A controller below, but if you are considering another panel you will need the 20A version

www.ebay.co.uk

VICTRON ENERGY BLUE SOLAR MPPT 75V 15 AMP LEISURE BATTERY CHARGE CONTROLLER 740439246005 | eBay

You can request to have your order left without signature, or to have the order left with a neighbour. It's our mission to bring you the best service and product support available. We all know when you've set yourself a task then you usually want to get on with it ASAP.
www.ebay.co.uk
 
Dave, i found this ................................................................... Google Translate is your friend.

www.campersun.com

Regolatore di Carica con Display

Regolatore 240 Watt + Display 5 Funzioni + cbe pannelli solari Camper
www.campersun.com www.campersun.com



A bit more of a root around found this ...................................... go to page 11 and zoom in.

issuu.com

CATALOGO CS-EVOLUTION 2010

CATALOGO CS-EVOLUTION 2010
issuu.com issuu.com
 
Last edited:
Wooie1958 said:
I agree with Fisherman about the Victron but for £11 more you can have the same model with bluetooth that lets get see all the battery info on your phone.

www.ebay.co.uk

VICTRON ENERGY MPPT 75/15 12V 24 VOLT BLUETOOTH SMARTSOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER | eBay

Most solar panels typically produce approx. Get the Victron Connect App. You can request to have your order left without signature, or to have the order left with a neighbour. SUPPORT HELP LINE! Battery Life.
www.ebay.co.uk
Click to expand...
Many folk dont have or want a smart ph. 😂
 
Thanks everyone, I'm grateful for all your advice. The Victron looks like a straight swap for my basic electrical skills but I do like Trev's suggestion if I can find a simple route for a trickle charge lead to the starter battery.
 
Val54 said:
Thanks everyone, I'm grateful for all your advice. The Victron looks like a straight swap for my basic electrical skills but I do like Trev's suggestion if I can find a simple route for a trickle charge lead to the starter battery.
Click to expand...
The easiest place to find where the starter battery and the Leisure battery connections are close together is by the B2B/split charge/power distribution box. You will be able to tap into both there, plus a ground and fit whatever type of device/wiring to let you charge.

Typically a solar controller where fitted is NOT that close to that (they tend to be installed in a top cupboard, especially in factory motorhomes) and the hassle of adding cabling if not in place already from that location to the starter battery will be a right faff (I certainly wouldn't bother doing it as there are better options and if paying someone to run the cables, it could be quite pricey to do tidily as well).
 
PS. Looking at the first picture, it looks to me like there are 3 sets of twin-core cable tied together and going to the controller. So maybe one of those is a starter battery set already in place?

Now I will caveat that with a "check carefully"!
On the Adria Twin I fitted a Victron 100/30 to recently, there were FIVE sets of twin core cable going to the original solar controller. The original installer, instead of using a heavier gauge of cable for each connection, used a twin-core black+red for LB -ve, another twin-core black+red for LB -ve, ANOTHER twin-core black+red for SB +ve, and a FOURTH twin-core black+red for SB -ve.
(I didn't use ANY of the existing wiring but something much more suitable).
 
Yes the cabling looks inadequate, I thought 4mm2 was recommended.
The cabling in the photo looks to small, creating excess resistance lowering output from the solar panel.
 
Fisherman said:
Yes the cabling looks inadequate, I thought 4mm2 was recommended.
The cabling in the photo looks to small, creating excess resistance lowering output from the solar panel.
Click to expand...
for that size panel, you could easily get away with thinnish cable and 2.5mm2 would be enough. But in relative terms, cabling is a cheap part of the installation and may as well go bigger and put in a bit of future-proofing in case you add a second panel.
Really it is also best to install the controllers closer to the battery then close to the roof! (not sure why installers like to fit up the top? still have to run cables all the way from panel to battery)
 
wildebus said:
PS. Looking at the first picture, it looks to me like there are 3 sets of twin-core cable tied together and going to the controller. So maybe one of those is a starter battery set already in place?

Now I will caveat that with a "check carefully"!
On the Adria Twin I fitted a Victron 100/30 to recently, there were FIVE sets of twin core cable going to the original solar controller. The original installer, instead of using a heavier gauge of cable for each connection, used a twin-core black+red for LB -ve, another twin-core black+red for LB -ve, ANOTHER twin-core black+red for SB +ve, and a FOURTH twin-core black+red for SB -ve.
(I didn't use ANY of the existing wiring but something much more suitable).
Click to expand...
Thanks David. I do need to check out the existing cabling before I decide on anything. However the existing controller is fitted in the leisure battery area in the double floor space, so it couldn't be any closer. If the existing wiring doesn't feed the starter battery, its only a metre or so to fish a cable through to the normal Ducato starter battery, just depends whether I can find a path out of the underfloor and under the passenger seat. Thanks again.
 
Val54 said:
Thanks everyone, I'm grateful for all your advice. The Victron looks like a straight swap for my basic electrical skills but I do like Trev's suggestion if I can find a simple route for a trickle charge lead to the starter battery.
Click to expand...
A wire out through the dash if battery outside, makes sure it is in a bit of tubbing to stop a contact with steel.
If starter batt is under the seat then it should not be a problem.
Go for a size that will allow you to add a extra panel maybe later, or a small foldable one in the windshield facing the sun.
 
wildebus said:
PS. Looking at the first picture, it looks to me like there are 3 sets of twin-core cable tied together and going to the controller. So maybe one of those is a starter battery set already in place?

Now I will caveat that with a "check carefully"!
On the Adria Twin I fitted a Victron 100/30 to recently, there were FIVE sets of twin core cable going to the original solar controller. The original installer, instead of using a heavier gauge of cable for each connection, used a twin-core black+red for LB -ve, another twin-core black+red for LB -ve, ANOTHER twin-core black+red for SB +ve, and a FOURTH twin-core black+red for SB -ve.
(I didn't use ANY of the existing wiring but something much more suitable).
Click to expand...
Update, I've had a good look at the wiring and there are two heavy + and - from the solar panel and just one feed to the leisure batteries, so that accounts for the 3 wires. I'm thinking of putting a Votronic 1715 Solar-Regulator MPP 250 Duo Dig as drop in replacement which will give me the trickle feed for the starter battery. That will also give me some leeway if we add another panel. If there is no connection back to the van CBE system, I'm assuming that I don't need to worry about matching the maximum rated output from the regulator to the CB516, or am I wrong?? Thanks in advance.
 
Fitted a few MPPT controllers and Panels to my vans over the years and there should be a + & - going to panel and LBs.


1672488191379.png
 
Val54 said:
Update, I've had a good look at the wiring and there are two heavy + and - from the solar panel and just one feed to the leisure batteries, so that accounts for the 3 wires. I'm thinking of putting a Votronic 1715 Solar-Regulator MPP 250 Duo Dig as drop in replacement which will give me the trickle feed for the starter battery. That will also give me some leeway if we add another panel. If there is no connection back to the van CBE system, I'm assuming that I don't need to worry about matching the maximum rated output from the regulator to the CB516, or am I wrong?? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
You say "two heavy + and - from the solar panel" - to clarify .... two cables, one + and one -? or they are doubled up and you have two seperate wires wrapped together into the +ve, and two wrapped together into the -ve?
looking at the photo again, those could be double-insulated solar cables?

Anyway, that is all by the bye. The cables are good enough to support the current generated by a 110W panel and you could swap the current controller for an MPPT one. If you added another panel, I would want to upgrade the cables to the battery.
the silly thing about the existing installation is the cables from the solar panel would seem to be much bigger than the cables to the battery from what you describe. In reality the reverse should be the case as the current from controller to battery will be greater than panel to controller.
 
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