over heating Ford transit mk2 2 litre pinto

shadysheepie

Guest
Hi wonder if any of you can help we have a transit CI mk2 bought from Ebay used it once after we bought it and within 20 miles the engine was steaming
struggled home very slowly many water stops , replaced head gasket,new thermostat, new sensor for thermostat, complete oil change and new filter,rinsed through rad

used it yesterday got 7 miles and it over heated it get hotter and hotter as you accelerate.
both pipes top n bottom hoses where same temperature heater working well
rad is small original
any hints on what it may be or what to do or even where to get a recon rad from
please bear in mind i am a woman posting this for my hubby whom wont use the internet
 
when the head gasket was replace the head should have been skimmed and pressure tested it could be warped so replacing the gasket won't rectify the problem sorry
p.s cost wise an engine for this shouldn't be to expensive
 
Has it been standing for a while
Could well be dragging brakes, try pushing it on the flat with brakes off.
Could be timing is out
Check air filter
could be petrol has gone off , but I doubt it


Or maybe an "Essex girl" is driving it :wacko:

Lorry
 
Hubby had the head skimmed. he thinks it maybe a blocked up system or maybe the pressure cap on rad, personally I wish he would sell it LOL. It has not been looked after previously has a fair amount of bow on the body

I want something smaller so i can park up where I want

also only averaging about 15mpg eek
 
you seem to have covered every thing with the head gasket change , so as the last answer gives waterpump trouble then that is about the only thing left i can think of i used to work on these old trannys and the only other thing i can think off is an airlock in the cooling system .when you turn the heater on will it blow warm if not then you need to bleed the system to remove all the air .to check the water pump run the engine with the rad cap removed if you dont see the water circulating in the rad ,suspect the water pump
 
Old_Arthur said:
when the head gasket was replace the head should have been skimmed and pressure tested it could be warped so replacing the gasket won't rectify the problem sorry
p.s cost wise an engine for this shouldn't be to expensive
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you usualy find with the old pinto engine that with it having a cast iron head you dont realy need the head skimming just a dam good clean .the old way of checking for a true cast head was to use valve grinding compound on a piece of plate glass and run the head in a figure of eight a few times then check the head for trueness thats when mechanics were mechanics not fitters its only the ally heads that need a skim
 
mandrake said:
you seem to have covered every thing with the head gasket change , so as the last answer gives waterpump trouble then that is about the only thing left i can think of i used to work on these old trannys and the only other thing i can think off is an airlock in the cooling system .when you turn the heater on will it blow warm if not then you need to bleed the system to remove all the air .to check the water pump run the engine with the rad cap removed if you dont see the water circulating in the rad ,suspect the water pump
Click to expand...
good tip Mandrake,i'd forgotten about that one....
Solarman
 
grr ok we have now replaced rad cap put a solution in to clean rad in case of blockages, gets 7 miles down the road and water spewing every where.
yes its blowing very hot air back into the cab and i mean HOT
I said water pump but hubby wants to try and locate either a serria or Granda RAD and replace rad but I dont think its gonna be such an easy job

he says if the water pump had gone hot air would not blow into cab??? is this right being a humble woman i just cook and clean the dam thing
Andrea xx
 
mandrake been doing this job 47 yrs man an boy for a living :baby: still got the tools i had to buy to work on the pinto (10 & 12mm long splines and tappet tool ) along with the other thousands of pounds worth of tools and diagnostic equipment i have in my workshops, any head can warp if it is run hot enough and it usually has been and for the sake of £27 for an headmaster to check and pressure test it it's not worth a mechanic who's doing the job for wages to take the risk of getting it wrong,
a compression tester on each cylinder would tell:cool1:
 
he says if the water pump had gone hot air would not blow into cab??? is this right being a humble woman i just cook and clean the dam thing
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That sounds about right.

I would suggest NOT driving it down the road to see what happens.

One thing left is a major blockage in the radiator - although you said both top and bottom hoses were hot. Equally hot, or just both very hot.

Combustion gases blowing past a gasket into the cooling system will result in quick heating and blowing coolant everywhere. Filling the radiator right up, leaving the cap off and see if lots of gas bubbles blow up through the opening is a good indication of that happening.

A bit of careful feeling as the engine warms up - thermostat housing, bypass, coolant hoses and then top and bottom radiator tanks and radiator cores should give you a bit of an idea what the sequence of event is. If it doesn't want to heat up, run the engine at high idle and cover the grill with cloth. It could be a gasket fault or crack in the block or head that opens up once a certain temperature is reached and that would be indicated by no bubbles and then lots of bubbles.
 
You say it's the original radiator.

I had to have a new rad on my Mark 3 last year, it solved the overheating problem.
 
Being a proper vehicle engineer by trade I would suggest you stop throwing good money into it guessing the fault. I would be very. Surprised if the rad is that blocked, best way of cleaning it is to remove it, turn it upside down and put a hose pipe in it to back flush it. Some of the pintos needed the heater matrix bleeding to get trapped air out and also common for the water pump impellor to come loose on the shaft and not circulate the water or it could be more terminal such as a cracked head or porrous block. I would get a garage to look at it, prob cheaper in the long run.
 
as you say if you have tried everything and the problem still exists then you may have a cracked head or block ps many years ago when i was in the motor trade as they say ,i did manage to pass all my exams and finaly ended up as a member of the national institute of motor viehcle engineers but that was before ford brourght out the ford mondeo how time passes its very difficult to diagnose a problem when you cannot see the viehcle as you all may agree
 
I take it the new thermostat is ok? does the stat open have you tried this?, take the stat out and try it then. The water pump could still be an option though. Its years since I worked on theses vehicles but we never really had problems with overheating. The valves used to close if if I remember right but not overheating problems. Good luck and please let us know the outcome.
 
shadysheepie said:
is this right being a humble woman i just cook and clean the dam thing
Andrea xx
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:):):)

sorry to hear that you are having problems.
If i were you I would stick it into the local garage and ask them to do a leakdown pressure test of the coolant system. it doesn't cost much but will identify if you have any leaks in the system at least.

If you hadn't bled the air out of the system fully that would make your engine overheat but you would probably notice over-pressure causing venting of water from the rad cap.

My money is on the waterpump. I'm not familiar with this engine but on some it is possible to remove a hose or the thermostat housing and see and feel the waterpump impellor. Some waterpumps are prone to having their impellors slip off the drive shaft because they are often only an interferance fit .

make sure that your thermostat is put in up the right way !.. you wouldn't be the first to put it in upsidedown. Warm the engine slowly from cold and feel the hoses and radiator to see where the hot water is getting blocked .
Remove the main flow/return hoses to the rad and check them internally to make sure the inner linings are not collapsing with the heat and causing a blockage.

Does the engine have a fixed viscous fan or an electric fan ? if viscous try fitting a replacement or better still replace with an a electric fan if it doesn't have one .already.
If electric fan... Check the fan fuse and relay and make sure that the electric fan is switching on when the engine gets hot. If not remove the electrical connector from the radiator sensor and fit a wire loop to force the electric fan on continuously . See what that does for the coolant temperature.

Sorry for the random suggestions but its late and I am not familiar with your engine. I have a 2.5ltr diesel in my Transit
 
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