On about my electrics again.

[wildebus]

I think you mean Victron Connect...

That is the name of the app but it is also called VE.Connect. There is also a VE.Config App for example and a VE.Power as well.
VictronConnect (no space by the way if you want to get into the weeds) is part of a whole range of VE Apps.

 

[Harrytherid]

Firstly, ignore the suggestions from the phone or 1234, or 0000.
The number you need is ALWAYS six digits long. It is by default 000000. If the box was opened then it was possible someone tested it and for some reason changed the Bluetooth pin but very unlikely. So just perserve with the 6 zeros.

Next, you don't use the phones Bluetooth pairing to pair the device, you should use the VE.Connect app. in the Bluetooth setting, find the device - and check the number matches your device (the serial number is on the box that you remembered to keep, yes?), and tell the phone to forget it.
Turn off Bluetooth and turn it back on. In fact, just restart the phone....
Then check Bluetooth is on but DO NOT start looking for devices and pairing, go to VE.Connect and hit the magnifying glass 'search' icon. when something pops up you should get prompted for the pin. 000000 is what you want, nothing else. If the pairing window disappears, you need to find it to complete the process. sometimes as I said before, it can disappear behind other screens so use the phones buttons to check for other active windows (little square box on android. Don't know on iPhone) and go to that screen to complete the pairing.
If the pin HAS been changed from 000000, you need to reset that back to default. You need the PUK code of the device for that. You can find that on a label on the controller, but it is usually underneath so you well need to unscrew it from its mount to access the back plate to see the label.

Thanks Wildebus, I shall try that, complicated for a poor old brain, though. and yes, I have the box, OK and it was opened so maybe the PIN was changed. I have printed out what you say and we shall see. Unfortunately I have great deal to do today.

 

[Harrytherid]

What you told me about the Bluetooth worked including the six zeros. Unfortunately I can not seem to take a screen shot on my phone and must rely on notes (scribbled).
Solar Voltage=17.89, current 0 Amps,
Battery, Voltage 13.84 current 0 Amps,
State OFF. Load output state on, current 0 amps power 0 watts. It tells me I need 5 volts difference to charge and unless my arithmetic is worse than I think, it has not got 5 volts difference only 4.05 so no charge going in eh?

 

[wildebus]

What you told me about the Bluetooth worked including the six zeros. Unfortunately I can not seem to take a screen shot on my phone and must rely on notes (scribbled).
Solar Voltage=17.89, current 0 Amps,
Battery, Voltage 13.84 current 0 Amps,
State OFF. Load output state on, current 0 amps power 0 watts. It tells me I need 5 volts difference to charge and unless my arithmetic is worse than I think, it has not got 5 volts difference only 4.05 so no charge going in eh?

controller turns ON when PV voltage >5V more than Battery.
controller turns OFF when PV voltage is <1V more than Battery.
These are defined in the design and cannot be changed.
If the difference did not reach >5V at the start of the day at some time (very unlikely, btw), then you will see a note in the settings saying "charger is off" below the "State Off" message.
If you have no other charging active other than the solar, it must have been working to have a battery voltage of 13.84V. I am guessing you had the solar disconnected at some time today when troubleshooting this?

I have a recollection (which may be wrong!) that there is a 60 minute window if the solar is not present/detected where the controller will carry on where it left off when the solar is restored (after say driving in a tunnel or heavy rain even). And after 60 minutes, it is like a new day and the >5V test and <1V starts again.

 

[Harrytherid]

Ah thanks, I forgot I had the EHU engaged so that will be it. Sorry to have troubled you.

Kind regards, Harry

 

[wildebus]

Ah thanks, I forgot I had the EHU engaged so that will be it. Sorry to have troubled you.

Kind regards, Harry

See what happens tomorrow

 

[Coolasluck]

Or you could have got a lot more from your solar in that 8 years from a better quality controller

Top quality controller and gauge of wire. No point skimping and buying rubbish. Stick the biggest wire you can fit into the reg.

 

[Geek]

I think the default code is six zeros i.e. 000000

It is, and it tells you that's the default when it asks for the code

 

[JQB]

I had an auto electrician look at my system the other day,. Charged me £213 for what he purported to be 1.5 hours work which so far as I can see was very little but pronounced all OK except solar panel not charging. Looked at it myself and my multi-meter gave me 8.5volts (no sun at that point) from the charger (Juta 10 MPPT). I tried reading the manual but it has been translate from the Chinese or whatever by a non native English speaker and is incomprehensible to me. The charge light (red) is flickering which seems to be saying that the battery is fully charged. Any comments? please. Battery low light is off and load light is steady on and green. Will 8.5 volts help charge the battery if it does get low or do I need new solar panel?

on the subject of electricss, slightly off piste, there's an ad in the freeads in our local rag for a 12v to 240v 600w inverter, as new i'm told. Guy bought it to charge a laptop but very soon changed his van for one with an inverter fitted, hence spare inverter for sale very cheap on 01793 854747

 

[JQB]

I read an article today on BBC and apparently it is too sunny for solar panels to work properly ?

I think i read somewhere a figure of up to 25% loss depending on the amount of heat. I saw a chart somewhere detailing temperature rise/power loss - the facts are out there, but, if it's that warm it's long summer days so plenty of rays, plenty of amps, don't worry about it.

 

[trevskoda]

on the subject of electricss, slightly off piste, there's an ad in the freeads in our local rag for a 12v to 240v 600w inverter, as new i'm told. Guy bought it to charge a laptop but very soon changed his van for one with an inverter fitted, hence spare inverter for sale very cheap on 01793 854747

You dont want a inverter to charge a laptop, there are small cigy plug in units 12v to 19v etc for about £10/15 pounds and do the job well.
I do have a smart soft start inverter 600w to run my 230v fridge and if required a small 400w heater when we start of in winter to get the bus temp up untill the van heater kicks in.

 

[merl]

Thanks Wildebus. I suspected that was the answer to the two negs. So it looks like I shall be out there shortly screwing it up and connecting with gay abandon, gay in the original and real meaning of the word not homosexual. Thanks for all your help, invaluable, better than the instructions which are too jargon loaded. Was going to clear a blocked gutter first but the rain started again

Regards, Harry

"Not homosexual"