New SC Relay or B2B ?

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Van is Peugeot Boxer, 2016. (Euro 6, 2L engine)

Came with a CarGo split charge relay, but recently it's been acting up - sometimes when standing with the engine off, I'd hear it click/click/click every second or so for a short time and often not coming on at all when driving, so needs new .. (I did check alternator output - that's working fine when engine running)

(fortunately solar and mains battery charger at home is keeping it ticking over for now)

It would be too easy to just get another at about 1/3 the price of a B2B unit - and I'm looking at the Victron Orion-TR one (for no reason other than I already have a Victron MPPT 100/30 solar unit)

I can see that the B2B should charge it quicker but cost vs. a bit more effort to fit it in the space inside the van...

Any opinions either way?

Cheers,

-G
 
Absolute no brainer IMHO

Victron B2B everytime ....especially if you want maximum charging and best care for your batteries .
 
Van is Peugeot Boxer, 2016. (Euro 6, 2L engine)

Came with a CarGo split charge relay, but recently it's been acting up - sometimes when standing with the engine off, I'd hear it click/click/click every second or so for a short time and often not coming on at all when driving, so needs new .. (I did check alternator output - that's working fine when engine running)

(fortunately solar and mains battery charger at home is keeping it ticking over for now)

It would be too easy to just get another at about 1/3 the price of a B2B unit - and I'm looking at the Victron Orion-TR one (for no reason other than I already have a Victron MPPT 100/30 solar unit)
I think getting another relay would be more like 1/6th the price of a B2B, not a 1/3rd ;)

But a B2B is STILL a better buy regardless.

I can see that the B2B should charge it quicker but cost vs. a bit more effort to fit it in the space inside the van...

Any opinions either way?

Cheers,

-G

There are quite a few options, some are ok and some are very good.
I would go for either the Victron Orion-Tr 30A or the Ablemail AMC-12-12-30A. Both are good units. The AMC tends to be be able to run at full output non-stop whereas some people have reported the Victron can overheat if you are not careful on the ventilation in the area installed in.

(I run an AMC 60A and an AMC 30A in parallel in my Motorhome)
 
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I'll go with the Victron - although it's more expensive than the Sterling unit I really don't need to keep the main battery topped up (the van is also my "daily driver") and I like the bluetooth interface from the existing solar one... Still - a shade over £200 though and I'll need to find some space to fit it, or do a bit of a shuffle...

Cheers,

-G
 
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I'll go with the Victron - although it's more expensive than the Sterling unit I really don't need to keep the main battery topped up (the van is also my "daily driver") and I like the bluetooth interface from the existing solar one... Still - a shade over £200 though and I'll need to find some space to fit it, or do a bit of a shuffle...

Cheers,

-G
Careful ....Victron is addictive.lol

Screenshot_20230419_110003_Gallery.jpg
 
H duty relay in my van which i put on with a switch, handy if you require a jump start from les batteries.
relay.png
 
H duty relay in my van which i put on with a switch, handy if you require a jump start from les batteries.View attachment 123361
Trev's idea is a very good 1/2 way house (actually nearer 7/8 way house!) between swapping the SCR and a B2B and isn't discussed any ware near as much as it should IMHO.
Installation of a B2B will involve rewiring the charging circuit between the 2 batteries completely with much heavier wiring anyway, so if you fit heavier wiring and a heavier relay (instead of the B2B) then you'll get much faster charging from the alternator and better reliability than simply replacing the SCR.
As we know the relay wont charge or maintain you're leisure battery perfectly but if you have a lead carbon battery OR solar/mains charger working alongside this will limit the downside and you'll save a hundred maybe two hundred quid.
One caveat, all of the above may or may not be applicable if you have a smart alternator, I've no idea how it'll behave due to any particular manufacturers programming characteristics:confused:
 
Trev's idea is a very good 1/2 way house (actually nearer 7/8 way house!) between swapping the SCR and a B2B and isn't discussed any ware near as much as it should IMHO.
Installation of a B2B will involve rewiring the charging circuit between the 2 batteries completely with much heavier wiring anyway, so if you fit heavier wiring and a heavier relay (instead of the B2B) then you'll get much faster charging from the alternator and better reliability than simply replacing the SCR.
As we know the relay wont charge or maintain you're leisure battery perfectly but if you have a lead carbon battery OR solar/mains charger working alongside this will limit the downside and you'll save a hundred maybe two hundred quid.
One caveat, all of the above may or may not be applicable if you have a smart alternator, I've no idea how it'll behave due to any particular manufacturers programming characteristics:confused:
Any rewiring needs will depend on the type of original installation though.
Most self-builds nowdays will use a VSR - Voltage Sensing Relay - and the typical wiring supplied/specified with those is at a minimum 10mm2. When I discussed with customers the choices between VSRs and B2Bs, I would always recommend the B2B but if the budget couldn't run to the B2B, I did tell them that the wiring put in for a VSR (I would supply 16mm2) would be easily good enough for the typical (~30A) B2B so it was an easy upgrade for later and you can simply remove the VSR and put the B2B in it's place (assuming enough pre-planning and room was left for this upgrade).
VSRs have generally replaced the switched relays in new self-builds as it removes the need to search out the D+ signal and is a much simpler install.

Factory Motorhomes using something like a Sargent PDU will have much lesser cabling - the typical Sargent battery cabling tends to be a pair of 4mm2 cables from Sargent to Battery Bank, so effectively 8mm2 which is borderline really. But if you are replacing a 'factory' SCR - Split Charge Relay - solution with a B2B you will be bypassing the PDU entirely anyway usually so you would need to run new cabling regardless - and if you are running cable you may as well heavier cable than light stuff.
 
Any rewiring needs will depend on the type of original installation though.
Most self-builds nowdays will use a VSR - Voltage Sensing Relay - and the typical wiring supplied/specified with those is at a minimum 10mm2. When I discussed with customers the choices between VSRs and B2Bs, I would always recommend the B2B but if the budget couldn't run to the B2B, I did tell them that the wiring put in for a VSR (I would supply 16mm2) would be easily good enough for the typical (~30A) B2B so it was an easy upgrade for later and you can simply remove the VSR and put the B2B in it's place (assuming enough pre-planning and room was left for this upgrade).
VSRs have generally replaced the switched relays in new self-builds as it removes the need to search out the D+ signal and is a much simpler install.

Factory Motorhomes using something like a Sargent PDU will have much lesser cabling - the typical Sargent battery cabling tends to be a pair of 4mm2 cables from Sargent to Battery Bank, so effectively 8mm2 which is borderline really. But if you are replacing a 'factory' SCR - Split Charge Relay - solution with a B2B you will be bypassing the PDU entirely anyway usually so you would need to run new cabling regardless - and if you are running cable you may as well heavier cable than light stuff.

Yes, it's really a VSR - It's one of these:


(and van was a self-build but not by me)

It's been installed with 16mm^2 cables so replacing it with the Vctron 30A unit ought to be fine.

Not sure why it's failed though - nor why it might click in/out with the engine off either. I had a good look yesterday with a view to removing it and making space for something else and it was working when I started the engine... (Alternator was putting out 14v) but it's done that before in the past few weeks, so maybe the contacts are sticking or something and shoogling it about helped? Who knows. I'll replace it then do a "bigclive" on it to see...

Cheers,

-G
 
Yes, it's really a VSR - It's one of these:


(and van was a self-build but not by me)

It's been installed with 16mm^2 cables so replacing it with the Vctron 30A unit ought to be fine.

Not sure why it's failed though - nor why it might click in/out with the engine off either. I had a good look yesterday with a view to removing it and making space for something else and it was working when I started the engine... (Alternator was putting out 14v) but it's done that before in the past few weeks, so maybe the contacts are sticking or something and shoogling it about helped? Who knows. I'll replace it then do a "bigclive" on it to see...

Cheers,

-G
Admit I skim read yr post and missed the important Cargo info:rolleyes:.
Sounds like the voltage sensing part of the unit has gone dodgy TBF I don't really care for them and depending on the brand they cut out before the LB is fully charged (which I think the Cargo does) and can link the 2 batteries together momentarily while starting depending on solar input at the time (which I dont think the cargo will)
If you can access a B+ signal easily and you're on a budget then the relay option would be simple enough and more reliable and your cabling would likely already be 'fat' enough?
Or swap out the VSR.
B2B would be best option no doubt but also the most expensive so .......
 
Yes, it's really a VSR - It's one of these:


(and van was a self-build but not by me)

It's been installed with 16mm^2 cables so replacing it with the Vctron 30A unit ought to be fine.

Not sure why it's failed though - nor why it might click in/out with the engine off either. I had a good look yesterday with a view to removing it and making space for something else and it was working when I started the engine... (Alternator was putting out 14v) but it's done that before in the past few weeks, so maybe the contacts are sticking or something and shoogling it about helped? Who knows. I'll replace it then do a "bigclive" on it to see...

Cheers,

-GT
The HC-Cargo is one of a whole raft of VSRs that are pretty good but they certainly can fail. something that can be overlooked is the earth connection - that must be good for the relay to work.

You are in a good position to swap it for a B2B cabling-wise. If you wanted to keep to a budget but wanted a more reliable option, the Victron Cyrix-CT could be worth considering? Described as a 'Battery Combiner' it is essentially a semi-intelligent VSR, but it comes with a 5 year warranty, which is a key thing.
I had a customer fit one and it did fail after a year or so, but my Victron distributor just sent out a replacement with little fuss once we did some basic trouble-shooting to confirm it was the unit at fault.
A feature of the Victron Cyrix-CT is it has a "Battery Assist" feature. It has a connector that if you put to +12V will engage the Relay, connecting the batteries and allowing the Leisure Battery to help start the engine. You usually conenct this to a momentary switch fitted near the driver and pressing the switch activates the relay for 30 seconds.

Admit I skim read yr post and missed the important Cargo info:rolleyes:.
Sounds like the voltage sensing part of the unit has gone dodgy TBF I don't really care for them and depending on the brand they cut out before the LB is fully charged (which I think the Cargo does) and can link the 2 batteries together momentarily while starting depending on solar input at the time (which I dont think the cargo will)
Ref the VSR Operation generally and the HC Cargo model specifically, which is very typical of most of them, they have a turn-on voltage of around 13.8V, and once engaged they will stay on all the time until the voltage drops to around 12.8V. So I don't see why there should be a premature disconnection?

The majority of VSRs (and this applies to the HC Cargo as well) are bi-directional in operation and will engage if EITHER side hits the Voltage on-threshold. And they will stay on until BOTH sides drop below the Voltage off-threshold. So charging the Leisure Battery on either EHU or Solar will activate the VSR as soon as the voltage hits 13.8V, connecting the Leisure and Starter batteries together and so the Starter will get charged as well. (This is a significant benefit of a VSR over both a B2B or a switched type SCR system. The alternative is usually to fit a Battery Maintainer/Trickle Charger like an AMT12-2 ).

There are a couple of uni-directional VSRs, and at least one VSR that as well as a certain voltage has a vibration detection so is meant to ensure it is only on when the engine is running. These are fairly rare and not actually that reliable.

Something also that people need to be aware of is you cannot use a VSR if you have Lithium Batteries. The OFF Voltage Threshold at 12.8V is too low and when connected to a Lithium Battery will only disconnect when the battery is pretty highly discharged. You would end up with a Relay that will turn on, but never turn off. Victron do make a Lithium compatible version of the Cyrix Battery Maintainer (actually 3 versions) and the Victron Cyrit-CT Li can work pretty well as it has a higher disconnect voltage compatible with Lithium values.
 
So I don't see why there should be a premature disconnection?
Me neither in that case. Only had dealings with VSRs a couple of times and both times wasn't impressed with their logic. It was a while back and can't recall the exact issues, (old man brain :eek:) I know there was a low hab bat issue, I seem to remember the VSR cutting off during charge but it could have been staying ON and then the hab bat was drained slowly along with the cab bat as the vehicle stood unused. The other seemed to have a mind of its own and didn't operate as you've suggested so I guess it had developed a fault much like the OPs.
Overall VSRs have left me baffled by their modus operandi ( which they would if they're faulty!) and just seem a over complicated/expensive/riskier means to an end compared to a HD relay and a B+ connection. The addition of a simple switch to energise the coil gives the ability to use the hab battery to assist the starter battery too.
I guess from an installer POV time is money when a B+ isn't that simple to obtain though.
 
I had a Victron 30amp dc to dc charger along with other Victron gear in our last van. Loved the connectivity but had overheating a choking issues with the dc to dc. It would start off delivering full charge, but soon faded and sometimes dropped below 20amps/hour. Went on the Victron help group and it seems I’m not the only one to have had this problem. I even tried mounting a thermostatically controlled cooling fan - no difference whatsoever.

I decided a change was due with this van and fitted all Renogy gear. Lithium battery, self switching inverter and a 50amp dc to dc/mppt solar controller in one. All Bluetooth, connectivity great.

It cost a lot less than the blue stuff and everything was delivered within three days. So far I’ve found that the dc to dc/mppt solar controller does exactly what it is meant to do. It delivers between 46 and 59 amps/hour while driving with no overheating issues. I also bought a 200 watt Renogy solar panel to supplement the existing 100 watt panel. I’m not in any great rush to fit that because unless winter proves too much for the system the way it is, I may just not bother.
 
I had a Victron 30amp dc to dc charger along with other Victron gear in our last van. Loved the connectivity but had overheating a choking issues with the dc to dc. It would start off delivering full charge, but soon faded and sometimes dropped below 20amps/hour. Went on the Victron help group and it seems I’m not the only one to have had this problem. I even tried mounting a thermostatically controlled cooling fan - no difference whatsoever.

I decided a change was due with this van and fitted all Renogy gear. Lithium battery, self switching inverter and a 50amp dc to dc/mppt solar controller in one. All Bluetooth, connectivity great.

It cost a lot less than the blue stuff and everything was delivered within three days. So far I’ve found that the dc to dc/mppt solar controller does exactly what it is meant to do. It delivers between 46 and 59 amps/hour while driving with no overheating issues. I also bought a 200 watt Renogy solar panel to supplement the existing 100 watt panel. I’m not in any great rush to fit that because unless winter proves too much for the system the way it is, I may just not bother.
did you see my post about that issue? https://motorhomer.com/threads/for-owners-of-victron-orion-smart-tr-b2b-charger.46785/
if you still have that charger and if it is over a certain age, you can get it replaced with a reworked one.


FWIW, I did some testing of various B2Bs a few years ago (2019 in fact) - and would have been around the time when the charger still had the issue (from memory, testing was done around the time it was released?)
I found the Victron got extremely hot very quickly. I thought it was my cabling as in my test setup I actually had the output linked to the input so it was running at full rate. That should not have mattered actually, but clearly the charger couldn't cope and I turned it off after a few minutes.

The most impressive B2B I have tested without a doubt is the Ablemail AMC12-12-30. I ran this non-stop on a 440Ah Battery Bank pre-discharged to 50% and it output a rock-steady 32A for a constant 4 hours before it reached Absorption mode. I checked the temperature of the casing at that point and it was 50 Degrees C, so not cold by any means but well within spec - and this is a charger with no fans and purely passive cooling, and I did not provide any cooling or fit to an additional metal plate.

BT - Ablemail V_C by David, on Flickr

This is why I fitted Ablemail AMC B2Bs in my own Motorhome when I got it in 2020 and updated all the electrics.


Oh, and out of interest, this is how the HC Cargo VSR that was mentioned on this thread operated on the test (same setup ... 440Ah Battery discharged to 50%, source power to drive the chargers/VSRs was a 120A DC Supply)

BT - VSR V_C by David, on Flickr
 
did you see my post about that issue? https://motorhomer.com/threads/for-owners-of-victron-orion-smart-tr-b2b-charger.46785/
if you still have that charger and if it is over a certain age, you can get it replaced with a reworked one.


FWIW, I did some testing of various B2Bs a few years ago (2019 in fact) - and would have been around the time when the charger still had the issue (from memory, testing was done around the time it was released?)
I found the Victron got extremely hot very quickly. I thought it was my cabling as in my test setup I actually had the output linked to the input so it was running at full rate. That should not have mattered actually, but clearly the charger couldn't cope and I turned it off after a few minutes.

The most impressive B2B I have tested without a doubt is the Ablemail AMC12-12-30. I ran this non-stop on a 440Ah Battery Bank pre-discharged to 50% and it output a rock-steady 32A for a constant 4 hours before it reached Absorption mode. I checked the temperature of the casing at that point and it was 50 Degrees C, so not cold by any means but well within spec - and this is a charger with no fans and purely passive cooling, and I did not provide any cooling or fit to an additional metal plate.

BT - Ablemail V_C by David, on Flickr

This is why I fitted Ablemail AMC B2Bs in my own Motorhome when I got it in 2020 and updated all the electrics.


Oh, and out of interest, this is how the HC Cargo VSR that was mentioned on this thread operated on the test (same setup ... 440Ah Battery discharged to 50%, source power to drive the chargers/VSRs was a 120A DC Supply)

BT - VSR V_C by David, on Flickr

No I didn’t see that post. Very interesting figures wildbus and thanks for the taking the time to post. I sold that vehicle in April, I’d extensively kitted it out with Victron gear (apart from the 200ah smart Polinovel lifepo4 battery). I was more than happy with the overall performance of Victron gear apart from the dc to dc charger. We occasionally needed hook during the deepest darkest months, but not that often because of a 40ah mains lithium charger. Fortunately the new owners are very happy with overall performance, but I suspect they are less inclined to wildcamp during the winter months and they have hook up where they keep it, we didn’t.

With our new van, as mentioned I decided to self install Renogy whole hog (mainly for continuity). For me, the 50amp mppt solar controller/dc to dc charger has completely solved our previous solar deficit and information provided via Bluetooth is spot on. No overheating whatsoever and so far no need to add more solar. The self switching 2000watt inverter is faultless. I swapped out the old mains charger for a comparatively cheap 20 amp lithium compatible charger which was a considerable saving given that our needs now don’t require hook up, but if for some reason we are forced to be static for a while on hook, 20 amps/hr is more than adequate.

Have to say I like Victron, but as long as Renogy keeps performing as it has, for the price I’m a convert.
 

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