new battery time again

Let me know what to look for, Trev, and maybe I will go that way too though I WAS happy with the lead/carbon idea but who knows!
Problem with lipo4 is lots of bits require changing, costs money even though the batteries are very good, without changing any solar control units or chargers the lead carbons are a drop in exchange, these can be bought on line ebay or maybe with a link from this site.
 
Problem with lipo4 is lots of bits require changing, costs money even though the batteries are very good, without changing any solar control units or chargers the lead carbons are a drop in exchange, these can be bought on line ebay or maybe with a link from this site.
The problem you'll encounter with going lead carbon is the limit charge rate of some particularly that 115ah leoch jobbie that you often link to Trev. Can't recall exactly but I think the maximum charge rate is just over 20A, you'll exceed that with your fat cable and HD relay system that you're using at the moment.
 
What, Merl, is an HD relay (Is that a split charge relay ?) and what is the result of exceeding the charging limit of the battery anyway? This website.... https://www.tayna.co.uk/industrial-...-dt/?msclkid=66724a34c0ff113efc262c95ccfab431....claims that this lead/carbon has a faster charging capability than a lead/WET acid and I can find no mention of a charging limit.
Ok so Trev has his own charge system, it's basically a split charge relay setup BUT he's cabled from the alternator to his leisure battery with very heavy cables, this means he'll be charging at somewhere around whatever the alternator can supply, because of this higher current flow his SCR is a very high current relay.
Those Carbons have a maximum charge current, if you download the tech spec and zoom in on the label on the top of the battery image you'll see 24A max charge current. I've got an idea that this has now changed to 22 but I could be wrong. Yes it's naughty that they don't openly state this in the literature and you have to wait until the battery arrives before you find out☹️.
A normal MH charge system comprises of thinner cables than what Trev's using and also there are smaller fuses, PCB tracks connectors and probably other relays etc too, this all increases wiring resistance and that resistance limits the charge current. The maximum current will vary from van to van because of all of the variables re cabling etc but obviously you have your DC clamp meter so you'll be able to check it, it will be highly when the battery is fully discharged and then the current will drop off as the battery charges up, probably won't exceed 20A anyway.
Sorry to be the harbinger of bad news but please don't shoot the messenger 👍
 
Ok so Trev has his own charge system, it's basically a split charge relay setup BUT he's cabled from the alternator to his leisure battery with very heavy cables, this means he'll be charging at somewhere around whatever the alternator can supply, because of this higher current flow his SCR is a very high current relay.
Those Carbons have a maximum charge current, if you download the tech spec and zoom in on the label on the top of the battery image you'll see 24A max charge current. I've got an idea that this has now changed to 22 but I could be wrong. Yes it's naughty that they don't openly state this in the literature and you have to wait until the battery arrives before you find out☹️.
A normal MH charge system comprises of thinner cables than what Trev's using and also there are smaller fuses, PCB tracks connectors and probably other relays etc too, this all increases wiring resistance and that resistance limits the charge current. The maximum current will vary from van to van because of all of the variables re cabling etc but obviously you have your DC clamp meter so you'll be able to check it, it will be highly when the battery is fully discharged and then the current will drop off as the battery charges up, probably won't exceed 20A anyway.
Sorry to be the harbinger of bad news but please don't shoot the messenger 👍
I don't have one Merlin but is it worth getting this as I'm never going to be a big user/

 
Ah right Merl. My charge system is probably similar to Trev's as when I had my alternator renewed the one they put in did not have a built in SCR as the old one must have had. so I bought one (Ouhoug 140AMPS) and installed it myself using jump start leads for cabling so what do I need to rectify matters? A resistor of some sort, I suppose.
 
The problem you'll encounter with going lead carbon is the limit charge rate of some particularly that 115ah leoch jobbie that you often link to Trev. Can't recall exactly but I think the maximum charge rate is just over 20A, you'll exceed that with your fat cable and HD relay system that you're using at the moment.
No the alt which also charges the starter battery will throttle back as they do, anyway i will have 2 lez and one starter from a 70/90 ah altanator.
The van also has a diode link which if i kill the switch reduces volts to 13.6 as apossed to 14.4, this was the cr-py device fitted from new which i went around with the switch/relay. ;)
 
I don't have one Merlin but is it worth getting this as I'm never going to be a big user/

Absolutely, essential IMHO. Harry has done quite a lot of searching for a reasonable one at the right price but I don't know which one he when for and if it's arrived yet.
Maybe he'll chip in. There's lots available but you must ensure it measures DC current, some quote Ac/DC BUT that's only DC Voltage and only measure AC current, I'm sure the one you linked to isn't DC.
 
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Ah right Merl. My charge system is probably similar to Trev's as when I had my alternator renewed the one they put in did not have a built in SCR as the old one must have had. so I bought one (Ouhoug 140AMPS) and installed it myself using jump start leads for cabling so what do I need to rectify matters? A resistor of some sort, I suppose.
So here's that close up from their tech spec PDF
1000004048.jpg
1000004045.jpg


And above is the label on mine, sitting idle in the garage.
You can see 25A on the first and 21.6A on the actual item.
 
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So here's that close up from their tech spec PDF
View attachment 133461View attachment 133462

And above is the label on mine be sitting idle in the garage.
You can see 25A on the first and 21.6A on the actual item.
Yes, if you're going to use one in your setup then you'll need to check the current and limit it by adding some additional resistance, I'd just add a length of 2.5mm T&E mains cable, you'd have to experiment with the actual length but remember current will be higher when the battery is deeply discharged.
The cable will get a little warm so don't bunch/ roll it up.
Be interesting to see how much you need 🤔.
It'll depend on how deep you discharge before you start recharging and also your alternator voltage (which isn't always 14.4v as we're told)We could have a sweepstake but I think I'd be the only one who entered!! I'm going 4.5 metres of 2.5mm copper cable.
 
i will have 2 lez and one starter from a 70/90 ah altanator.
If you're starter battery is pretty full and not drawing a lot of current then the remainder of that 70 or 90 amps will go to the leisure batteries. You'll need to limit the max current to them both combined to 40 odd amps. Even 70 will knacker them Trev.
 
If you're starter battery is pretty full and not drawing a lot of current then the remainder of that 70 or 90 amps will go to the leisure batteries. You'll need to limit the max current to them both combined to 40 odd amps. Even 70 will knacker them Trev.
Will look into that, meentime the old truck batts are holding up well, mind you i dont hammer them as only ever stay one overnight at a time, some lights ph charging and maybe a we bit of tv.
 
Now you have me really worried but I suppose it is just as well as I would have been doing damage. Can we find out exactly what I need to do to make things OK as I am loathe to put in a new battery if my system might bugger it up until that is sorted. Good job we had this conversation.

I would pass on the full info about my meter but my card was playing up so my wife ordered it on her system on which she spent most of this afternoon deleting anything not of immediate interest to her so it is lost. The meter is a Habotest HT208D That "D" is important or you will get one which does not do DC amps
 
My wife tells me it was "ALiExpress" she ordered it from and quite a bit cheaper than the amazon price though not quite so quick.

It strikes me that my starter battery is fine with the split charge relay and my big fat wiring so maybe the wagon cuts down the amperage when it rectifies the alternator output. I shall be out there shortly with clamp meter to check and will report back.
 
Can we find out exactly what I need to do to make things OK as I am loathe to put in a new battery if my system might bugger it up
Personally I'd get a more suitable battery rather than trying to modify your van to suit. When you get a reply from Tayna why not ask them about other LC batteries without the current limitation?
Your other option would be a 20A B2B charger, should be easy to install because you've already got the 'fat' cable in place.
 

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