MOT Failure

I think my starting point would be to get a decent welder to have a looksy....

It could be that things aren't actually as bad as they seem,
The mot tester can only really look at the surface of the rust....
Theyre not allowed to investigate fully, so can sometimes err on the side of caution (the rules for a corrosion fail are pretty black and white in terms of areas BUT not so clear on extent)
I'm not saying for a second that he has failed it incorrectly JUST that it might read worse than it actually is to repair.

Fingers crossed. It past a test 12 months ago and has only done 400 miles since. Its hard to believe that just sat on the drive for the best part of a year it could have deteriorated vastly but I guess we will just have to wait and see. Still not heard anything.
 
I think my starting point would be to get a decent welder to have a looksy....

It could be that things aren't actually as bad as they seem,
The mot tester can only really look at the surface of the rust....
Theyre not allowed to investigate fully, so can sometimes err on the side of caution (the rules for a corrosion fail are pretty black and white in terms of areas BUT not so clear on extent)
I'm not saying for a second that he has failed it incorrectly JUST that it might read worse than it actually is to repair.

Having said that when you take a hammer to it, it might be a lot worse.
Its when you run out of good bits to weld to, like when your within 30cm of a suspension mounting point. :oops:
 
Having said that when you take a hammer to it, it might be a lot worse.
Its when you run out of good bits to weld to, like when your within 30cm of a suspension mounting point. :oops:

Indeed....
(and in my personal experience of playing with rusty old crap..... The tip of the iceberg is the bit you see)

Was just making the point that the best person to assess how, bad it is,
is someone that's going to weld it.
 
An update

The garage just called me. Not good news. They dont want to do the work. Just too big a job to take on and they dont have the time or the space apparently. Worse still they couldnt recommend anyone who could do it either. They reckoned probably about £600 for the mechanical work but that I might find someone who could do the welding for perhaps £1000 and if I did I should snap their hands off. I am somewhat gobsmacked though that a garage in the centre of Darlington that has been there for decades cannot recommend someone that could do the work. If they dont know anyone then my chances of finding someone seem slim. Sandra, who called me with the bad news is going to ask around today (shes always pretty helpful).

So WTF Do I do now?

I guess the options are, sell it as it is as an MOT failure and hope someone is prepared to take it on. How much am I likely to get though? or start the hunt for someone to do the work and I reckon it will have to be a fixed price rather than an estimate.

Bugger.
 
That's a pain :(

I guess if the van itself is beyond redemption, the value in it is the interior which depending on condition could be good for someone doing a self-conversion in the same way that people buy caravans as donors and transplant cupboards, windows, roof vents, etc.
A caravan donor can sell for a couple of thousand.
 
That's a pain :(

I guess if the van itself is beyond redemption, the value in it is the interior which depending on condition could be good for someone doing a self-conversion in the same way that people buy caravans as donors and transplant cupboards, windows, roof vents, etc.
A caravan donor can sell for a couple of thousand.

Got a couple of leads already for repairers that might take it on so just waiting to hear on that. It seems however hard to believe that a vehicle can go from an MOT pass a year ago to scrap value a year later with just 400 miles done. One train of thought is to sell it and stick a high price on and see what offers come in. There could well be someone out there that is prepared to take on the work. The market is certainly favourable but I would like to explore getting it fixed myself first.
 
Got a couple of leads already for repairers that might take it on so just waiting to hear on that. It seems however hard to believe that a vehicle can go from an MOT pass a year ago to scrap value a year later with just 400 miles done. One train of thought is to sell it and stick a high price on and see what offers come in. There could well be someone out there that is prepared to take on the work. The market is certainly favourable but I would like to explore getting it fixed myself first.
I have an likely expensive bill on my LT to get an MOT as well - mine is all brake related and the last MOT - in May 2019 and 2,600 miles earlier - was totally clear without a single advisory!
Laying down a vehicle unused for nigh on a year is a killer for the braking system.

(My car failed the MOT on brakes last Friday as well and almost certainly for the same reason - when I took the discs off yesterday to replace there were surfaces missing where the pads had stuck to the disc damp for weeks and delaminated).
 
Got a couple of leads already...GOOD NEWS.
There could well be someone out there that is prepared to take on the work.
THERE WILL BE SOMEONE but at what price?
The market is certainly favourable but I would like to explore getting it fixed myself first.
Hi Barryd,
Have a mate who does body repairs here in Taunton and he is currently doing some welding on a 1997 Ford Van conversion - Has been at it for a month, so far he has replacied both rear arches and door back panel, he has also done Near Side front corner, and middle sill, A lot of time was needed to replace Off Side middle body panel below kitchen and the sill, and is in process of replacing the whole drivers step and front arch with some smaller areas near the LHS battery tray and mounting.
Overall so far the cost is near £2k, with all panels bought and cut to fit where necessary, He reckons another week to complete the drivers step and front arch. The total bill will be nearer £2.5 and £2.7k, then its back to the garage for remainder of the MoT.
When I seen the interior it is in exceptionally good condition, although aging in look - and some use marks on the woodwork,
Is it worth it = down to the owners love of the vehicle I guess.

My other thought about your scenario is - When do motorhomes die? Any vehicle older than 25yrs has served its' purpose possibly.

Ours is a 1998 model and only this morning have dicovered a bad damp area under the shower tray caused by the poor positioning of the shower curtain. We chose to get a lot of welding done last year by our mate above during lockdown as a job for him to keep busy and so got mates rates. The job was a scary one for him as combustible material near to some of the welds was needed to be removed which took more time than he had envisaged.

We hope the effort will keep us on the road for another 5 years - fingers crossed. Waiiing for summer to arrive with possibility of using it then so delaying the MOT until nearer the time to use it in a hope to use it next winter in Europe. We hope.

So for your dilemma - as you asked for judgments on cost - I raise Robmac and go for £1.5 million. In all truth God knows.

Good luck with the search and wish you well.
 
An update

The garage just called me. Not good news. They dont want to do the work. Just too big a job to take on and they dont have the time or the space apparently. Worse still they couldnt recommend anyone who could do it either. They reckoned probably about £600 for the mechanical work but that I might find someone who could do the welding for perhaps £1000 and if I did I should snap their hands off. I am somewhat gobsmacked though that a garage in the centre of Darlington that has been there for decades cannot recommend someone that could do the work. If they dont know anyone then my chances of finding someone seem slim. Sandra, who called me with the bad news is going to ask around today (shes always pretty helpful).

So WTF Do I do now?

I guess the options are, sell it as it is as an MOT failure and hope someone is prepared to take it on. How much am I likely to get though? or start the hunt for someone to do the work and I reckon it will have to be a fixed price rather than an estimate.

Bugger.
It sounds like the garage don’t want anything to do with it. It may sound harsh but I think it’s time to get rid and let it be someone else’s problem. At the end of the day you don’t want to be driving around in a vehicle that’s structurally unsafe. As I said in my first post. If it was a horse they’d shoot it.
 
Starting to think that way that I might be better just selling as is. My first lead drew a blank as the guy said it was too big for his workshop and I am awaiting a response from another but the second one has agreed to look at it on Wednesday morning at his workshop on the ramps.

I found two similar Kontikis to ours that were "sold listings" on Ebay sold recently and was amazed what they went for.


Question is. How much it would fetch as is with no MOT and a fair bit of work needing doing. I have no idea. 2k, 5k, 10k or 50 pence? If I thought it would fetch maybe £3-4k less than market value then I probably would sell it but if we are talking a couple of grand for bits its definitely worth getting a test on it. However I suspect many that bother to look at the MOT history might be put off from that long list even if its repaired and past an MOT.
 
Here you get it nicked & burned and claim of the insurance. ;)

dover-clifss-cartoon.jpg
 
Here you make a phone call to the right people and your MOT is put through your letter box half an hour later.😜 Get it fixed Barry you'll get all the piss takers wanting it for nowt without an MOT get it fixed and ask the going rate for it especially this year second hand vans are making daft money.
 
Here you make a phone call to the right people and your MOT is put through your letter box half an hour later.😜 Get it fixed Barry you'll get all the piss takers wanting it for nowt without an MOT get it fixed and ask the going rate for it especially this year second hand vans are making daft money.
If you can find someone willing to take on the welding.
 
An update

The garage just called me. Not good news. They dont want to do the work. Just too big a job to take on and they dont have the time or the space apparently. Worse still they couldnt recommend anyone who could do it either. They reckoned probably about £600 for the mechanical work but that I might find someone who could do the welding for perhaps £1000 .............💷

£1600, but if you know off a good welder hopefully less.
£1600, So I win the million £ sweepstake ,💰 thank you.
 
£1600, So I win the million £ sweepstake ,💰 thank you.

Not yet you dont. That was a guestimate. Lets see what the bloke on Wednesday says. IT does worry me as I bet it will be an estimate rather than a quote. I guess they wont know for sure how long and how much until they take it apart. I would rather have a fixed price quote but I suspect that wont be possible.
 
Took the van in for MOT this morning. Its only done 400 miles from the last one. It makes pretty grim reading. The list is too long to screen shot.

1996 Swift Kontiki 640. im guessing this is not going to be a small bill. Should we start a sweepstake as to who can guess how much to the nearest million? :(


Repair immediately (major defects):
  • Offside Front Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting Jacking point (6.2.2 (d) (i))
  • Nearside Front Inner Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength Wheel arch (5.3.6 (a) (i))
  • Nearside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded front to rear at rear (1.1.11 (c))
  • Offside Front Inner Brake prescribed area is excessively corroded Wheel arch (1.1.21 (e) (i))
  • Nearside Front Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced Step (7.1.1 (a) (i))
  • Nearside Rear Position lamp showing white light to the rear (4.2.3 (a) (ii))
  • Rear fog lamp not working (4.5.1 (a) (ii))
  • Headlamp levelling device inoperative (4.1.5 (a))
  • Battery insecure and likely to fall from carrier (4.13 (a) (ii))
  • Offside Front Lower Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
  • Rear Brakes imbalanced across an axle (1.2.1 (b) (i))
  • Offside Front Service brake excessively binding (1.2.1 (f))
  • Offside Rear Service brake excessively binding (1.2.1 (f))
  • Rear Brakes imbalanced across an axle Axle 2 (1.2.1 (b) (i))
Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
  • Nearside Registration plate lamp inoperative in the case of multiple lamps or light sources (4.7.1 (b) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
  • Front Anti-roll bar pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement Both (5.3.4 (a) (i))
  • Rear Integral body structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced both inner wheel arches (6.1.1 (c) (i))
I would say £2000. That's pretty much what my Apache failed on so I had a guy ( highly recommend) from Featherstone near to Wolverhampton to repair it and what a fantastic job too , I had photos of all work before and after if you need his number let me know 👍
 

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