MOT diesel emissions testing

Canalsman

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My 2007 Ducato recently failed MOT due to excessive emissions. This caused me to look into how this part of the test is conducted and how measurements are taken. It proved rather confusing but this is what I established.

There are many steps to the procedure but there are two that set the parameters to establish if the vehicle passes or fails.

Firstly the emission level to be tested must be established. In most cases the vehicle manufacturer attaches a plate, probably on the slam panel under the bonnet, with the test value inscribed. In my case it is shown as 1.54, though I don't know what the unit of measurement is. Apparently it is an opacity measurement.

Secondly, with the engine at normal operating temperature, the tester revs the poor engine's nuts off to take an opacity reading. If the value recorded is equal to or less than the manufacturer's value, the emissions test is passed immediately with what is termed a 'Fast Pass'.

If this value is exceeded there then follow 6 runs up to the rev limiter and an average of the three best results is taken to establish if the manufacturer's value is matched or bettered. If not it's a FAIL.

In my case the averaged value was around 2.3 so it failed by a considerable margin.

I was advised to do the much quoted 'Italian tune-up' and try again.

In addition to this I filled the tank with VPower diesel before the test was done again. With this fuel I performed the 'Italian tune-up' by revving the engine whilst driving to the limiter quite a few times. This achieved two things. First off, the first two or three times huge quantities of soot were ejected from the exhaust. Second it it ensured the entire exhaust system was very hot prior to the retest.

A huge difference was the result.

It passed with a 'Fast Pass' and an opacity value of 0.37! Way, way under the 1.54 limit.

So if you're approaching an MOT with your diesel it may pay you to do what I did. It's worth noting that revving the engine under load on the road is less stressful for the engine than revving it under no load when the test is conducted.
 
During my trips to MOT, along mainly open roads, I ensure the engine is revved to a higher level than I would normally use, but not excessively so, i.e. where it is safe and legal to do 60mph I leave the 6 speed box in 4th gear. Having disc all round, and the drums only used on handbrake, I ease the handbrake on and off a few times whilst rolling to clean up the drums.
 
During my trips to MOT, along mainly open roads, I ensure the engine is revved to a higher level than I would normally use, but not excessively so, i.e. where it is safe and legal to do 60mph I leave the 6 speed box in 4th gear. Having disc all round, and the drums only used on handbrake, I ease the handbrake on and off a few times whilst rolling to clean up the drums.
My MOT man advised to apply the handbrake for around 30 seconds when driving occasionally for a clean-up. The Motorhome failed the MOT on the handbrake last week and on the retest, he did a test drive, putting the handbrake on and off a few times, as you suggest, and that totally fixed one side :)

I try and use the brakes a few times to try and do a bit of a surface clean of them on the way (where I live, never need to use the brakes so end up driving what appears to be like a bit of an idiot with the higher revs and random braking :D )
 
My MOT is this week and now I’’m concerned because my van engine never really gets hot, it takes at least 5 to10 miles to get the reading up to halfway, in fact, if I’m in a queue it will actually drop down the gauge and the heater blows cool, I doubt if the tester will get it up to temperature.
 
My MOT is this week and now I’’m concerned because my van engine never really gets hot, it takes at least 5 to10 miles to get the reading up to halfway, in fact, if I’m in a queue it will actually drop down the gauge and the heater blows cool, I doubt if the tester will get it up to temperature.
Based on my experiences over the years I'd recommend you take a longer route and run the engine in a lower gear than normal to generate some heat.
 
My MOT is this week and now I’’m concerned because my van engine never really gets hot, it takes at least 5 to10 miles to get the reading up to halfway, in fact, if I’m in a queue it will actually drop down the gauge and the heater blows cool, I doubt if the tester will get it up to temperature.

I think all 2 ltr diesels take 15 mins to warm up, as mine only warms up quicky when driving not parked !. I put my parking heater pipe into cab to defrosting windscreen and keep me warm in winter. But the heated seats are bliss
 
We use Shell V-Power diesel every fourth tank. (Unless in Europe during the summer, longer journeys so gets hotter) It does pull better, especially on hills and keeps the engine clean. Plus, I do a half hour run on the way to the MOT station (which is 15 minute walk away from the house) just before the appointment time. Then, fingers crossed! 🤞🤞
 
My 2007 Ducato recently failed MOT due to excessive emissions. This caused me to look into how this part of the test is conducted and how measurements are taken. It proved rather confusing but this is what I established.

There are many steps to the procedure but there are two that set the parameters to establish if the vehicle passes or fails.

Firstly the emission level to be tested must be established. In most cases the vehicle manufacturer attaches a plate, probably on the slam panel under the bonnet, with the test value inscribed. In my case it is shown as 1.54, though I don't know what the unit of measurement is. Apparently it is an opacity measurement.

Secondly, with the engine at normal operating temperature, the tester revs the poor engine's nuts off to take an opacity reading. If the value recorded is equal to or less than the manufacturer's value, the emissions test is passed immediately with what is termed a 'Fast Pass'.

If this value is exceeded there then follow 6 runs up to the rev limiter and an average of the three best results is taken to establish if the manufacturer's value is matched or bettered. If not it's a FAIL.

In my case the averaged value was around 2.3 so it failed by a considerable margin.

I was advised to do the much quoted 'Italian tune-up' and try again.

In addition to this I filled the tank with VPower diesel before the test was done again. With this fuel I performed the 'Italian tune-up' by revving the engine whilst driving to the limiter quite a few times. This achieved two things. First off, the first two or three times huge quantities of soot were ejected from the exhaust. Second it it ensured the entire exhaust system was very hot prior to the retest.

A huge difference was the result.

It passed with a 'Fast Pass' and an opacity value of 0.37! Way, way under the 1.54 limit.

So if you're approaching an MOT with your diesel it may pay you to do what I did. It's worth noting that revving the engine under load on the road is less stressful for the engine than revving it under no load when the test is conducted.
Something similar happened to us in Spain with our 2010 Mohawk. Failed first time , our friendly garage tipped a bottle of Something into the tank , filled it with premium diesel and told us to bring it back after a weeks driving. It then passed.
 
My MOT is this week and now I’’m concerned because my van engine never really gets hot, it takes at least 5 to10 miles to get the reading up to halfway, in fact, if I’m in a queue it will actually drop down the gauge and the heater blows cool, I doubt if the tester will get it up to temperature.
Tester is meant to put a temperature sensor into the oil to ensure its reached “operating” temperature.

Usually I do emissions check at the start of the mot (if the vehicle is warm/hot), if it’s been sitting outside for a while usually do it at the end of the test (when it’s been inside and the engine has been running for part of the test. It doesn’t take it long to get up to minimum temperature (at a fast idle (2000 rpm)) as it’s the oil temp and not the coolant temp that should be checked.
 
Tester is meant to put a temperature sensor into the oil to ensure its reached “operating” temperature.

Usually I do emissions check at the start of the mot (if the vehicle is warm/hot), if it’s been sitting outside for a while usually do it at the end of the test (when it’s been inside and the engine has been running for part of the test. It doesn’t take it long to get up to minimum temperature (at a fast idle (2000 rpm)) as it’s the oil temp and not the coolant temp that should be checked.
Odd I Can't see any requirement for a temp probe in the testers manual ...

Screenshot_20231212_181630_Chrome.jpg
 
Its the first thing they do at mot stations here, and outside the shutter door so they wont get poisioned.
 
Always making sure you have a clean air filter too ....

Soon as they start to block the emissions can start to drift
Especially slightly older engines
 
Always making sure you have a clean air filter too ....

Soon as they start to block the emissions can start to drift
Especially slightly older engines
Take it out for the test if not sure, many cars iv had never had a filter on them, little dust here.
 
If the vehicle has an OBD port that is connected to the test equipment to ascertain the engine temperature.
 
Always making sure you have a clean air filter too ....

Soon as they start to block the emissions can start to drift
Especially slightly older engines
Mine gets changed every year during the service just before the MOT.

They are not a lot of money, equally i turn my around a quarter of a turn 3 times so all 4 sides of the cylindrical filter gets used.


This regime works for me and i`m happy doing it.
 

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