Leisure Battery charging strange behavior during engine running

AMcQ46

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The leisure battery (LB) on my 2 yr old Ford Transit based van has given up, as I unwittingly had been discharging it way below 50%, so based on some good advise on another thread, I have fitted a shunt type state of charge monitor so I can better manage the battery charge, and its the addition of the SOC device that has sparked my latest questions.

A new LB has been fitted, and for now I have replaced like for like with a 100Ah Banner Bull lead acid battery.

so with my new battery monitor, I was now looking at the current flowing into and out of the LB under various conditions, but is the charging side that has got me confused.

When I fitted the battery I had already charged it up to 100% off the van, and when running off EHU, it keeps it topped up to that level … all good.

BUT,

When I drive the van, I was assuming it would also continue to maintain the leisure Battery at 100% off the alternator, but it doesn’t, most of the journey, there is a significant current (between 6 and 10 Amps) flowing out of my fully charged Leisure bat, back to the Starter battery.

From what I have read, my van will have a “Smart Alternator” as its Euro6 spec, and it looks to be keeping the starter battery at 12.3V during the journey (a basic volt meter in the cigarette lighter socket), and with my fully charged leisure battery being closer to 13V, the current is flowing OUT rather than holding it at fully charged.

In a test that I videoed, I had the van habitation side switched off, so there was no power draw on the leisure battery (LB) and it was sitting at 96% charged, 12.6V, and 0 amps flowing through the shunt (on the -ve cable between LB and chassis earth point).

When I crank the engine there is initially an -11A draw out of the LB for a couple of seconds, then it swings sinusoidally to +18A charge into LB for a couple of seconds before decaying and turning into -9A draw OUT again and then decaying slowly, but staying -ve for most of the journey….Resulting with the LB being slightly lower charge capacity at the end of the trip compared to when I set off.

As soon as I turn the engine off, the current flow goes to 0A.

I am chasing the team that did my van conversion to establish if I have B2B charger or a split charge relay, as I believe for the smart alternator it should be a B2B

So my questions here are:

1) With a smart alternator is the starter battery supposed to be charging higher than the 12.3V that I was measuring at the cigarette lighter? do I need to tap in closer to the actual battery? . Note that I have no problems with the van starting or flattening the main battery.

2) is it normal to have a current flow OUT of the LB when the engine is running, I thought it was supposed to be a one way device.

3) if it is normal, how do I stop the LB being dragged back down from its full state of charge?

4) if it is not normal, what other checks do I need to do to find the problem,? I dont want to kill another LB, and I also want to make sure I have 100% charge when I arrive at my destination for the weekend.

other info:
van has 100W solar on the roof and a basic solar controller which looks to be connected to both starter & Leisure battery.
 
At tick over 13+ volts, while moving 12.5 volts. On sprinter that's mine. lazy smart alternators. Lol
 
Volts are all over the place on mine. Sprinter with smart alternator.

Can be as low as 12.4 V . In summer it can drop to that within 15 mins of starting.

A lot of this winter it sits between 13.6 and 14.8 when driving, taking a good while to drop lower. Perhaps battery is on the way out? No idea.

When coasting it can go up to 14.8 and even up to 15.2, which is the highest I've seen.

Only way I've found of easily over riding the smart alternator is by turning headlights on where it doesn't go lower than about 13.6.

Can't see what my leisure battery is doing while driving, but always seem well topped up now I have B2B charger.
 
an update from the van conversion company is that back then, they used a split charge relay, even with the smart alternator.... although they have now changed the build spec to a B2B..... grrr :(

they are offering to retro fit a CTEK B2B (I pay parts and they do labour) , so that should hopefully cure it, but in the short term @mark61 your suggestion about having the headlights on looks like a good cheat which I will try
 
Smart alternators need a smart controller to get the best out of them. Our Carthago has a Schaudt WA121525 Booster which looks after the leisure battery and makes sure the alternator is producing maximum power for charging. Looks like the converter needs to get upto speed with modern technology rather than relying on the old favourites.
 
When I checked our sprinter it was charging LB's at about 7 amps at best. When we've been parked up for a few cloudy days it was a struggle to get some decent charge back into LB's even with some driving and solar. So I've fitted a 30A b2b but not tried it on a run yet, just stationary though noticed that it did nothing at tickover until revs are increased a bit then charges LB's at about 30 amps, well that was with LB's at about 70%.
 
Even with a B2B beware of creating a loop. If you feed the B2B directly to the leisure battery but fail to disconnect the the relay that links the 2 batteries together it creates a loop, which can put you back where you started. Engine battery feeds B2B, B2B feeds leisure battery at higher voltage, relay connects leisure battery at higher voltage back to lower voltage engine battery. Result is neither the B2B or the smart alternator can do what they are designed to do and the B2B is powering itself.
 
It is normal for a smart alternator to run 12.3 volts or less , also yor engine battery will not charge above 80 % charge I also had problems with leisure battery discharging, my van with smart alternator ,I had all the same problems , driving with the fridge on 12 v made things worse , fitting a solar panel helped to keep the leisure battery charged up , a BtB is the way to go , but as previous post it must be fitted properly disconnecting any VSR. I am not an expert but had all the same problems
 
thanks for all the inputs, I will make sure they remove the VSR when they install.

out of interest i did a test today with the leisure battery at 95Ah capacity showing on the display, habitation side switched off, cloudy skys so next to no solar. drove 30mins to work and rechecked the state of charge ....... 94.5AH. ... so the net current flow to the battery was slightly -ve indicating that the smart alternator was on average controlling to a voltage slightly lower than the leisure battery state.

I had been watching the voltage on the vehicle / alternator side and it was as high as 15.7V on deceleration, and as low as 12.3V when the engine was pulling.

one more question: what current ratings are you all using on your B2B charger? is there a recommended capacity considering I have a single 100Ah lead acid battery, but I do want to future proof.
 
Personally I would get them to fit the Victron Orion TR Smart 12|12 30, the price is pretty much the same but you get 50% more charge current and bluetooth monitoring.
 
on my trip home from work today I tried out the short term cheat that @mark61 suggested. By turning on the headlights , it looks like it disables the smart alternator functions and the voltage stayed constant at 13.7V for the whole journey and the Leisure battery is being charged all the time.

so I can use that till I get the B2B fitted
 

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