Leisure batteries

Just swap to lithium half the weight all the power you can get a single 200ah right now on black friday offer that costs less than 2 110ah LA or AGM and weighs way less but gives more power
 
suty455 said:
Just swap to lithium half the weight all the power you can get a single 200ah right now on black friday offer that costs less than 2 110ah LA or AGM and weighs way less but gives more power
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You will require a b to b unit and if solar it must have a lith setting, also if you have a mains charger it will require changing.
 
trevskoda said:
You will require a b to b unit and if solar it must have a lith setting, also if you have a mains charger it will require changing.
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Lithium isn't as fussy as lead acid WRT charge characteristics Trev and I don't have a dedicated lithium setting on my SCC, you just need to set the float voltage to 13.3-13.5v depending on manufacturers recommendations which you can usually do with the settings. No issues with using a lead acid mains charger either, just don't leave it on float for weeks on end.
 
I think you mean a DC to DC? I use a Renogy DC to DC with MPPT built in 600w Solar and 2x 280ah Lithiums and still only weigh as much as my last 2x100ah lead acid
 
exwindsurfer said:
Mine is not a smart alternator .
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Jeff is there anything built in to that unit you use that would limit draw if you ever did get very low lithiums? I seem to think there is but can't remember. I know the Yanks with spit chargers on lithium fit a relay to limit current on start up
 
If you've got a smart alternator then you need a B2B.
If you've got a standard alternator then it's perfectly possible to charge directly from the alternator BUT wiring resistance is pretty critical.
Most commercial MH conversions will result in a slower charge than Lead Acid (despite the myth about massive currents and burned out wiring), Having said that in a system like yours with heavy cables and a relay charging the leisure battery you'd have to ensure there was sufficient cable length to keep the charge current from going too high when the battery was heavily discharged. Simply a matter of doing a bit of experimenting with a clamp meter and adding some extra cable if needed....OK for the very electrically savvy and well within your wheelhouse Trev but possibly a step too far for most DIYers. Standard advice is therefore fit a B2B or DC to DC as they are also known. 👍😉
 
merl said:
If you've got a smart alternator then you need a B2B.
If you've got a standard alternator then it's perfectly possible to charge directly from the alternator BUT wiring resistance is pretty critical.
Most commercial MH conversions will result in a slower charge than Lead Acid (despite the myth about massive currents and burned out wiring), Having said that in a system like yours with heavy cables and a relay charging the leisure battery you'd have to ensure there was sufficient cable length to keep the charge current from going too high when the battery was heavily discharged. Simply a matter of doing a bit of experimenting with a clamp meter and adding some extra cable if needed....OK for the very electrically savvy and well within your wheelhouse Trev but possibly a step too far for most DIYers. Standard advice is therefore fit a B2B or DC to DC as they are also known. 👍😉
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Cheers clears a lot up. (y)
 
Nabsim said:
Jeff is there anything built in to that unit you use that would limit draw if you ever did get very low lithiums? I seem to think there is but can't remember. I know the Yanks with spit chargers on lithium fit a relay to limit current on start up
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Ive know idea Neil. It's what Phil told me to fitl lolol
 
merl said:
If you've got a smart alternator then you need a B2B.
If you've got a standard alternator then it's perfectly possible to charge directly from the alternator BUT wiring resistance is pretty critical.
Most commercial MH conversions will result in a slower charge than Lead Acid (despite the myth about massive currents and burned out wiring), Having said that in a system like yours with heavy cables and a relay charging the leisure battery you'd have to ensure there was sufficient cable length to keep the charge current from going too high when the battery was heavily discharged. Simply a matter of doing a bit of experimenting with a clamp meter and adding some extra cable if needed....OK for the very electrically savvy and well within your wheelhouse Trev but possibly a step too far for most DIYers. Standard advice is therefore fit a B2B or DC to DC as they are also known. 👍😉
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I am not sure if it's 16mm cable I use on the split charger or 25 mm Merl it's that long ago.
 
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