installing stereo properly

Harrytherid

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My wagon is a Fiat Ducato 130 multijet based Mc Louis 670G. I have a Philips CEM3000B/05 car stereo which has never worked completely satisfactorily being plagued by interference. I am told it is a very good DAB system so I can only assume I am doing something wrong. When I removed the old cheap system put in by the suppliers of the wagon, the only change I made was to drive it from a permanently “on” source rather than the ignition controlled one that was part of the original installation. The aerial was a side of cab mounted telescopic job that got broken by a branch so I installed a roof top shark fin aerial. I have been spurred on to look at this as it has stopped working altogether. On removal of the unit I find that the negative (black) wire has broken through completely (don’t know why) so unless told otherwise I shall re-join that with “snap connectors”. Can anyone put me straight? I would dearly love to get the radio working properly.
 
Is the shark fin capable of DAB reception ...

Aftermarket DAB radios are notorious for poor reception ...

My works van (2021 relay) has a great DAB radio with fantastic reception ....unlike my aftermarket one in the motorhome that I've tried multiple DAB aerials with to get any sort of decent reception ...
Best I've managed is partial reception with a screen mount amplified version .
My final attempt will be linking the radios DAB antenna to the DAB output from the TV amplifier in the wardrobe .
 
Yes thanks, that is exactly what I shall be using and what in my old motorcycling days we called a snap connector. Both crimped and soldered, which if I remove the insulation to solder I shall apply a heat shrink.
Is the shark fin capable of DAB reception ...

Aftermarket DAB radios are notorious for poor reception ...

My works van (2021 relay) has a great DAB radio with fantastic reception ....unlike my aftermarket one in the motorhome that I've tried multiple DAB aerials with to get any sort of decent reception ...
Best I've managed is partial reception with a screen mount amplified version .
My final attempt will be linking the radios DAB antenna to the DAB output from the TV amplifier in the wardrobe .
Let me know how you get on with the aerial. However the radio is tuneable to both DAB and VHF and neither have been very satisfactory though I am told that is a good radio. I tried a little stick on DAB aerial and experienced no improvement. I keep a listening watch.
 
Yes thanks, that is exactly what I shall be using and what in my old motorcycling days we called a snap connector. Both crimped and soldered, which if I remove the insulation to solder I shall apply a heat shrink.

Let me know how you get on with the aerial. However the radio is tuneable to both DAB and VHF and neither have been very satisfactory though I am told that is a good radio. I tried a little stick on DAB aerial and experienced no improvement. I keep a listening watch.
Yes ours is tuneable to DAB and will in certain locations play DAB programmes BUT it will lose signal at the blink of an eye which frankly makes it useless ....
Soon as I get some time ill finish connecting it to the amplifier module of the TV aerial (it's got a specific output for DAB ) So I'm hoping for an improvement as its above the tin box .
 
I fitted one of these last year to replace a crappy screen one it has been brilliant its high up on my coachbuilt roof and my van is fiberglass. We could get lots of uk dab stations while parked up at Sangatte what I have noticed on my radio that is. If my preset dab stations don't work or are breaking up due to me being away from home where I tuned in. I press autotune and it rescans them all so most presets come back ok if they are national.

Mike
 
Our Fiesta has DAB and TBH it's pretty rubbish on DAB most of the time.

Bring back MW it worked everywhere even in tunnels.
 
The dab radio in my recently sold 2019 Fiat base vehicle Pilote was garbage. That poor I rarely used it.
The dab radio in my V90 Volvo is brilliant, even with a roof box on top of the roof fin.
 
I fitted one of these last year to replace a crappy screen one it has been brilliant its high up on my coachbuilt roof and my van is fiberglass. We could get lots of uk dab stations while parked up at Sangatte what I have noticed on my radio that is. If my preset dab stations don't work or are breaking up due to me being away from home where I tuned in. I press autotune and it rescans them all so most presets come back ok if they are national.

Mike
First thing with f glass is you require a ground plane under the antenna, second all these we short coil wound antennas dont give a good signal, third is all antennas must be the required length to match the transmitted freq. so either you do the cutting on a long grp whip or buy one cut for freq of dab.
 
I fitted one of these last year to replace a crappy screen one it has been brilliant its high up on my coachbuilt roof and my van is fiberglass. We could get lots of uk dab stations while parked up at Sangatte what I have noticed on my radio that is. If my preset dab stations don't work or are breaking up due to me being away from home where I tuned in. I press autotune and it rescans them all so most presets come back ok if they are national.

Mike
When I fitted the little aerial similar to that shown in "these" that came with the Stereo it was soon removed by overhanging trees, one of which is my own and no amount of pruning (short of cutting down and I am not going to do that) will keep control of it and another I bought and lost and replaced with the sharks fin as being more robust and less liable to go missing.
What struck me about Mistericeman's comment, was what is the difference between the "works van" and the aftermarket installation, eh? That difference should give us the clue about the best installation. MW which mine has, is, I think, generally rubbish all of the time, hence the propensity for car stereo to be FM or above. I have got an unwanted insert, sorry if it poses a problem. looks like I shall have to try a HIFI forum for the answer but thanks for trying lads
 

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When I fitted the little aerial similar to that shown in "these" that came with the Stereo it was soon removed by overhanging trees, one of which is my own and no amount of pruning (short of cutting down and I am not going to do that) will keep control of it and another I bought and lost and replaced with the sharks fin as being more robust and less liable to go missing.
What struck me about Mistericeman's comment, was what is the difference between the "works van" and the aftermarket installation, eh? That difference should give us the clue about the best installation. MW which mine has, is, I think, generally rubbish all of the time, hence the propensity for car stereo to be FM or above. I have got an unwanted insert, sorry if it poses a problem. looks like I shall have to try a HIFI forum for the answer but thanks for trying lads
In my experience (mainly of vans) the, DAB aerial is in the front screen...
Care is needed when new screens are fitted that
A the replacement screen is one with a antenna

B that the fitter actually reconnects the antenna properly (some are notoriously difficult to reconnect and thus, just get pushed up above the headlining)
 
My wagon is a Fiat Ducato 130 multijet based Mc Louis 670G. I have a Philips CEM3000B/05 car stereo which has never worked completely satisfactorily being plagued by interference. I am told it is a very good DAB system so I can only assume I am doing something wrong. When I removed the old cheap system put in by the suppliers of the wagon, the only change I made was to drive it from a permanently “on” source rather than the ignition controlled one that was part of the original installation.
This is not a good idea. Many Radios have a standby mode which can be pretty hungry. The "Off" Button on radios nowadays does NOT turn the radio off, and to have the radio actually go off you need to remove 12V from the Acc 12V line (the one that is typically connected to the Ignition signal.

What you can do if you want to be able to use the radio without the key, then you can fit a switch on that line. If you want the best of both worlds, fit one of my Drive/Camping Kits ;) See https://www.wildebus.com/product/drive-camping-switch-wiring-kit/
 
Thanks wildebus, happily that stereo has never flattened the battery so I shall continue with the feed as I have it. My researches on other fora have indicated that the grounding must be very very good for the stereo to work satisfactorily so I shall look to that before I try anything else. Best to take the grounding right to the battery negative, it seems. I shall do that as in the Ducato it will be quite easy.
 
The installation instructions actually suggest that if :-"Preset stations lost. • Battery cable is not correctly connected. Connect the battery cable to the terminal that is always live" so I feel quite confident in what I have done there. They are not so paranoid about the grounding as some of the stereo fora entries but who knows. I shall find out. It is a pity that where I live the DAB reception is poor at the best of times.
 
The installation instructions actually suggest that if :-"Preset stations lost. • Battery cable is not correctly connected. Connect the battery cable to the terminal that is always live" so I feel quite confident in what I have done there. They are not so paranoid about the grounding as some of the stereo fora entries but who knows. I shall find out. It is a pity that where I live the DAB reception is poor at the best of times.
There are two +ve connections to a radio.
One is the the permanent +12V and THAT is the one they are talking about in what you quote above.
The second is the one that goes to the ignition is the ACC +12V and THAT should NOT be connected to a permanent +12V, but a switched +12V

The ground connection to the radio must be as good as the +ve connection. Poor ground = poor sound. (a circuit needs a flow and return to work - this is why you have a +ve and -ve in the first place. If either are poor, expect per results. the only one on a radio that can be flimsy is the ACC +12V in fact, as all that does is switch on an internal relay. the Permanent +12V does all the heavy lifting (along with the ground).
 
Right wildebus, now you have really confused me. Which is which? I attach photos of the wires that go into the stereo. Although I have never experienced a problem with what I have done already, I will fit a switch into the relevant circuit, I have several, once I know which is the correct wire to switch and which one to leave permanent. You may wonder at the fact that my insulation to the repair is self-amalgamating tape rather than a shrink down sleeve. I slid the unshrunk sleeve onto the wire in preparation for sliding it back prior to shrinking down but the soldering got it too hot and one end shrank so I had to cut it off.
 

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Right wildebus, now you have really confused me. Which is which? I attach photos of the wires that go into the stereo. Although I have never experienced a problem with what I have done already, I will fit a switch into the relevant circuit, I have several, once I know which is the correct wire to switch and which one to leave permanent. You may wonder at the fact that my insulation to the repair is self-amalgamating tape rather than a shrink down sleeve. I slid the unshrunk sleeve onto the wire in preparation for sliding it back prior to shrinking down but the soldering got it too hot and one end shrank so I had to cut it off.
There are TWO +12V lines going into a Radio, as mentioned.....

The standard colour coding is:
YELLOW = Permanent +12V. That is the line that provides the main power to the radio to drive the speakers, drive the electronics, keep the presets pre-set, etc.
RED = ACC +12V. That is the line that is essentially the remote ON/OFF and is typically connected to the ignition switch.

I see in image "_110350.jpg" that you have disconnected the RED wire supply on the vehicle side and on the radio side have looped the RED onto the YELLOW so it is always ON (regardless of what the Radio "ON" button says).

The impact on the battery varies depending on the radio fitted - the fancier the radio, the more it will consume when you think it is off but it isn't really.
This is a common problem on VW T5 and T6 Transporters, where the standard radio is a Canbus controlled one, and owners swap it out for a standard (ISO) aftermarket radio. The problem being VW don't supply an ACC +12V in the radio Loom (this is one of the functions of the Canbus) so when you lose the Canbus, you loose a way to drive the ACC +12V into the radio - and the typical owner just connects up the ACC +12V to permanent +12V and fixes the issue :) (until his battery drains away after a week or so of sitting on the driveway :( )

Relatively recently I had a chap who called me about his Starter Battery draining away and wondered if his B2B was stuck on? He had sent it back to the manufacturers and it was tested good and returned. Put it back and same problem. Spoke to me as I sell the same B2B and wondered if I had any ideas of the problem? Put it this way ... It was a VW T5 and he fitted an Aftermarket radio ......


I have made and sold literally hundreds of those Drive/Camping switch kits I mentioned previously to VW Transporter owners :D (there is an optional extra on them that includes a fused cabled to get the Ignition supply to the Radio Loom as well) so they can choose between Drive (radio on Ignition) or Camping (radio on always). First thing I fit to my own campers as well (including the current Ducato based one).



PS. I said what the standard Colours are ... Depending on the vehicle, and this is generally applicable to older German vehicles, you might have to swap the Red and Yellows over as the vehicle maker reversed the ACC+12V and PERM+12V wires in their loom. This is the precise reason why those two wires on a radio loom have bullet connections, so they can be swapped without the need for any tools.
 
Thank you for sparing the time to write such a full answer, wildebus. I have printed it out so I can study it when I am feeling more receptive (feet up with a cuppa) and, maybe, I will understand it fully, and will decide how to go then. Just now my Barclaycard is being somewhat intransigent and this needs sorting more urgently then the stereo, Thanks again. I will report back on the results.
 
Well I have to report that the battery, after a week without input (EHU or engine running) and with the radio and disc player running some of that time is down to 12.1 volts so I feel quite happy with the connections I have made. I shall put it back on EHU today. However, the reception is still not good. FM is perfect with the ignition off but rubbish with it on. Dab, as expected, is a waste of space here and It makes little or no difference to the interference whether the engine is running or not. I feel we shall just have to rely on pre recorded stuff and forget the radio when moving as we have had to do hitherto. It also makes no difference whether or not the ground is run directly to the battery negative or left with the stereo ground as was originally so I shall remove that wire direct to negative. With the aerial disconnected the interference is still there though markedly reduced and, of course, no reception. If any of the foregoing flags up an answer I will be pleased to hear it. Regards, Harry
 

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