Gas leak detector

kito said:
Hi Was thinking on buying one of these hand held gas detectors to carry in the van they start from £20 upwards thought it would be quiet handy to have, I carry a aerosol spray leak detector but this would be a lot easier especially when you have to change the gas bottle in the dark. I was of the one below
The Question has of any members got one and if so witch one and how good is it.

CEM GD-3000 Flammable Gas Leak Detector Pen for LAG, LPG, CH4 & Butane

CEM GD-3000 Flammable Gas Leak Detector Pen for LAG, LPG, CH4 & Butane | eBay
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I've owned a similar device for several years. bought from Maplins, a Precision Gold N35AC. It's only failing seems to be, that the 2 AAA batts need to be at near full charge/power to make the device work.
Possibly better than your conk, possibly more sensitive than even your dogs conk.
 
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countrycruisers said:
As a Gas Safe Engineer one of the golden rules is Not to use Fairy or any other washing up liquid, Washing up liquids have a very corrosive ingredient that erodes gas fittings, creating more leaks.
The correct leak detection fluid are the propitiatory leak detection fluids available on the market.
Suggested web site BES. then search CURA leak detection fluid.

Some ideas appear good but you will never know what harm you are doing
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Car wash liquid-no corrosive salts.
 
kito

mikejay said:
I have one of these Honeywell EzSense Flammable Gas Detector Works really well when i fitted my gas-it system it detected a small leak that the detector spray supplied with the gas-it kit did not pick up. Keep it in the van and check all connections when checking over the van.

Mike
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Hi it gets good feedback And not two expensive I know its not the same as a professional gas man would use. But like one member said just after one he found a leak yes it was through smell but if like me I lost sense of smell it could go on for long enough and this is cheaper than a bottle of gas.

Tks Mike
 
It is important you test it each time before use use a butane cigarette lighter to prove it works

Alf



kito said:
Hi it gets good feedback And not two expensive I know its not the same as a professional gas man would use. But like one member said just after one he found a leak yes it was through smell but if like me I lost sense of smell it could go on for long enough and this is cheaper than a bottle of gas.

Tks Mike
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This is what the Gaslow gauge does

Alf


swiftcamper said:
I have a kane gas leak detection pen that came with my fga never used it yet.
First thing we do when working on gas is a tightness test before we will touch anything.
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Gas leak detection

We cannot take this subject lightly, a little knowledge is very dangerous.
We are talking about a LPG gas that is heavier than air, therefore if you have a gas leak you will probably not smell it at head level, this is why all vans need ventilation drop holes at low level, for gas leaks to escape.
It is law to have a rental property House, Cottage, Caravan, Boat, etc to have a Landlord gas safety check this will include a full gas tightness test, this will confirm there are no gas leaks or if there are they are within the permissible limits.
If you are using a van to live in an annual check by a Gas Safe engineer is a safe option.

Unless you know the rules yourself.
 
I've used washing up liquid and water in a squirty bottle to leak test refrigeration and A/C systems for over 20 years and never seen it corrode anything. ie Copper, brass, and alloy fins.

Many many times I've found the leak this way after faffing about with an electronic detector for hours. The problem with electronic refrigerant detectors is they go off for no reason and then you get paranoid there's a leak somewhere there isn't, even the wind sets them off. If I had a pound for every time I've uttered "good old suds" I'd be a rich man.

They have their place in the tool armoury though, I remember one job where a big VRV a/c system kept losing its gas but would hold a nitrogen pressure test for days, we even used helium to try and get it to lose pressure (smaller molecules) but to no avail. Eventually after partially regassing for the einth time the electronic detector went off slightly when I walked into a particular room, we then stripped the Unit down and found the exact location with suds. It was on a valve that only leaked when powered up.

Also none of my pots and pans are corroded or affected in anyway by fairy liquid.
 
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countrycruisers said:
We cannot take this subject lightly, a little knowledge is very dangerous.
We are talking about a LPG gas that is heavier than air, therefore if you have a gas leak you will probably not smell it at head level, this is why all vans need ventilation drop holes at low level, for gas leaks to escape.
It is law to have a rental property House, Cottage, Caravan, Boat, etc to have a Landlord gas safety check this will include a full gas tightness test, this will confirm there are no gas leaks or if there are they are within the permissible limits.
If you are using a van to live in an annual check by a Gas Safe engineer is a safe option.

Unless you know the rules yourself.
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I talked to a few gas safe engineers but none wanted to check a motorhome an issue a certificate.
 
channa said:
A large percentage don't have the LPG gas element , possibly the reason why.

Channa
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I had a chap I know who is gas safe registered have a look. He tried to test it but couldn't get his vacuum thingie to get any reading.
Thought even if he can't give a certificate, at least I know it doesn't leak.
Do you know how to test with the inbuild test point of the truma regulator? From what I can see there is a plastic blanking screw cap and a yellow tap which needs to be closed for testing?
 
Was it a mains gas thingie if so that thingie wont work on LPG you need a LPG thingie

Alf


Teutone said:
I had a chap I know who is gas safe registered have a look. He tried to test it but couldn't get his vacuum thingie to get any reading.
Thought even if he can't give a certificate, at least I know it doesn't leak.
Do you know how to test with the inbuild test point of the truma regulator? From what I can see there is a plastic blanking screw cap and a yellow tap which needs to be closed for testing?
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There should be no need of an additional sealant when using compression joints. If it doesn't seal on it's own, it's faulty in my opinion and a sealant will just mask this for an unpredictable amount of time.
Just my opinion.
 
I always use a gas joint sealing compound on my van with the excess vibration with road use its not like a fixed installation in a dwelling etc better safe than sorry

Alf



Teutone said:
There should be no need of an additional sealant when using compression joints. If it doesn't seal on it's own, it's faulty in my opinion and a sealant will just mask this for an unpredictable amount of time.
Just my opinion.
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Alf said:
I always use a gas joint sealing compound on my van with the excess vibration with road use its not like a fixed installation in a dwelling etc better safe than sorry

Alf
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So all the thousands of new and old motorhomes driving around are in risk of developing a leak? Seriously? C'mon :idea-007:
 
If you take a good look most motor caravan converters use a sealant on pipe joints as most are in places you cannot gain easy access I have had 15 vans and all have had a gas joint sealant used


Alf


Teutone said:
So all the thousands of new and old motorhomes driving around are in risk of developing a leak? Seriously? C'mon :idea-007:
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I use a compound on mine when I refit the fridge and when I fitted the bulk tank, trying to remember the name but it is made or sold by Calor, it could be Calortight or something similar, I would rather use something that may be needed than not use it and have problems
 
Hi Terry it is Calortite I use the same it's been around a long time better safe than sorry.

Alf




tezza33 said:
I use a compound on mine when I refit the fridge and when I fitted the bulk tank, trying to remember the name but it is made or sold by Calor, it could be Calortight or something similar, I would rather use something that may be needed than not use it and have problems
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I can see the need for compound or PTFE tape on a THREADED fitting.

Each to their own but I will not use compound on a compression GAS fitting. Never have in over 30 years and never had a leak once fitted correctly and tested.
If you reuse Olives, it's up to you. Don't think it's good practice to apply paste to a non fitting (used) olive.

Gas Compression Fitting
 
I didn't use a sealing compound when I built mine.

Got the system tested by the local LPG gas safe chaps that specialise in motorhomes and caravans.

They had some real horror stories, they said some of the pro builders were as bad as some of the amateurs. Apparently venting the flue into the living area is not uncommon.

Also, worth installing a gas test point.

Also worth noting thread types, taper and straight. Taper seal on the threads, straight seal on the end by way of a gasket.
 
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