Fridge not working on gas

sagart

Guest
Dometic RM4213S.

Gas bottle full, valves open.
Until a couple of days ago it worked fine.
Now the Orange toggle switch flashes, there may be a small "pop" but the burner fails to light.
Any ideas gratefully received!!
 
Dometic RM4213S.

Gas bottle full, valves open.
Until a couple of days ago it worked fine.
Now the Orange toggle switch flashes, there may be a small "pop" but the burner fails to light.
Any ideas gratefully received!!
Sounds like there's a something partly blocking the burner, they are normally fairly easy to access. It probably just needs a clean.

AndyC
 
Sounds like there's a something partly blocking the burner, they are normally fairly easy to access. It probably just needs a clean.

AndyC

Carburetor Cleaner works if there is a deposit on the jet. DONT USE IT WITH THE IGNITER ON AS IT IS EXPLOSIVE.

A spray and leave it to evaporate then blow it clean. Worked for me.
 
Great help so far!
The van is an Autosleepers Topaz Auto-Sleepers - Topaz VW Campervan

If you look at picture 1 or 2 (lounge or bedroom) you can see the built in fridge with the usual two plastic vents on the outside of the van's body.
Now...if you can tell me how to get to the burner, preferably without having to dismantle the van, my gratitude will be immense......
 
had the same problem , quite common , something fallen on the burner and parttially blocked it [ hence the plop ...some gas getting through ]


went next door , put the airjet attachment on the airline , poked it down the chimney and gave it a blast ; cured ; will no doubt have to do it again next year
 
had the same problem , quite common , something fallen on the burner and parttially blocked it [ hence the plop ...some gas getting through ]


went next door , put the airjet attachment on the airline , poked it down the chimney and gave it a blast ; cured ; will no doubt have to do it again next year

Presumably that means removing the top vent? Any further advice before I fiddle?
 
Hi Sagart
Remove the lower vent, the gas burner assembly is behind-it.
the top of the chimney is behind the upper vent.
You'll have to tees-out the covering ring that hide the screws on the vent but BE CAREFULL because the plastic will almost certainly be brittle.
Mine went back-on in five bits !!


regards...nige
 
Hi Sagart
Remove the lower vent, the gas burner assembly is behind-it.
the top of the chimney is behind the upper vent.
You'll have to tees-out the covering ring that hide the screws on the vent but BE CAREFULL because the plastic will almost certainly be brittle.
Mine went back-on in five bits !!


regards...nige

On mine when you remove the bottom vent you can see the flue and burner assembly. The burner is in what looks like an aluminium box. Take the screws out and ease the cover off to reveal the burner. You can then clear the debris with a vacuume cleaner. It is at this point I use carburetor cleaner.
 
Job for next week then...Skye is too wet and cold today...my sincere thanks to you both
 
yep , take off the top vent and blow down the chimney ; 60 second job , presuming you have access to the high pressure air line!
 
Common problem - offten comes up on this website. Ive had help on this before from this great forum.

Yep, you need to take fridge out and get to the back of it - take the casing off around the jet and thoroughly clean it all - debris builds up you see.

I got mine working great but now it doesnt work on 240 volt.

gas will do for now!

Craig
 
fridge vents

;)On the subject of the vents,,,,, on mine the vent was standard and it ment trying to reach the burner which was to the right of the opening......almost an imposibility, so upgraded it using the Dometic ventilation system white part no 2906100-00 which sounds very tec but is only a bigger vent. It is better though as it comes in two parts, the "body" stays fixed in the body work and the vent is held in by its own lock screw and when you take this off you can get to the burner without the need to keep resealing (and possible breakage of the vent due to brittleness as already mentioned). I had to cut aprox 4 inch to exstend the opening for the larger vent (easy job) but watch whats behind when cuting. This upgrade is so easy and is well worth it, it comes as a pair,a top vent and bottom vent....I only used bottom one and they have winter covers. They are in most caravan dealers accessory shops so no trouble there. Now whenever I need to deal with the burner its quite an easy job and its so accesible. Hope this helps any one.
 
yep , take off the top vent and blow down the chimney ; 60 second job , presuming you have access to the high pressure air line!

Great,that blows all the **** into the burners and makes the problem worse. TURN GAS OFF AT BOTTLE AND TURN OFF VALVES. dis assemble the burner chamber, undo the gas pipe , undo the thermo coupler,undo the igniter assembly. where the gas pipe goes into the burner assembly you will find a minute cone of brass, with a minute hole in it. this is the gas jet, make sure this is clear, hold it up to the light and see daylight through it , you should never poke anything in to the hole in this as it is preset for pressure, clean the burner bar of soot and rust, clean the tip of the thermocoupler with a fine piece of wet and dry.similar treatment to the tip of igniter. reassemble the burner in reverse order, Make sure the jet cone is in situe and right way round.reassemble the chimney / flue, TURN GAS BACK ON AT BOTTLE AND VALVES.
The fridge should now light and burn with a bright blue flame, check the gas joint you broke for gas leak [ As the flame is burning as this is the only time gas will be present at this joint using soapy water.]Replace the vent covers.DO NOT WORK ON GAS APPLIANCES UNLESS YOU ARE COMPITANT TO DO SO >
 
Fridge on gas

Hi,
The foregoing advice regarding cleaning the jet and burner is good, should you find however that the problem is still present afterwards it might be the thermocouple (Safty cut off thingy) which tells the electrically controled gas tap to stay open when the flame is light. Easily replaced and not expensive but is likely to be a manufactors spare part. Good luck.
Wanderer
 
my gratitude to everyone...now, I just want a dry day. skye today is wind and heavy rain...
 
thats funny vindiboy , wonder why the hi pressure air fix has worked for me for 35 years ! never blocked the burner once !

mind you didn't work once ..because the fault was something else

have you ever tried it ?
 
thats funny vindiboy , wonder why the hi pressure air fix has worked for me for 35 years ! never blocked the burner once !

mind you didn't work once ..because the fault was something else

have you ever tried it ?
No I have never tried it, nor have I ever looked for a gas leak with a naked flame or touched a bare electrical cable core to see if it was live, but I understand some have, well if it works for them ,good.:):):)
 
my granny taught me ...don't knock it if you haven't tried it ...and she was a wise old bird

why quote safety related items ? if your fridge won't light it is hardly dangerous :D
 
Unless you have the new AES fridge, when you try to light your fridge you hold the gas control knob in and fire the sparker / igniter, this holding in of the control knob overrides the gas safety valve and allows gas to flow to the burner, once the gas is lit and you release the knob the thermocoupler keeps the gas valve open and allows the appliance to function.If the gas does not light and you continue to hold the knob in ,the gas continues to flow and as it is not lit it will fill the combustion chamber and spill out in to the surrounduing area,you may be unlucky and ignite it with the sparker and have a large bang, not dangerous HMMMM!!!!!!!!
 
Or release the bottom vent and brush off the ignition with a copper brush (the kind they used to brush off the sparks, in the old days). I will not be suprised your wet climate has something to do with it :rolleyes:
 

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