Fridge cooling fan

[Rumour]

There have been a fair few posts on this subject, mostly with people fitting a 12V fan sold for PCs along with an on/off switch to control it. That is definately the cheapest way to get some forced air into the back of the fridge.
There is quite a long and useful thread here as an example - https://motorhomer.com/threads/fridge-cooling-fans.46496

But to answer your specific question, I have fitted something very similar to the one you have linked to, i.e. a Pre-packed fridge fan 'solution'.
I installed the Titan TTC Fan Kit, which I found was a great fit for the Thetford Grill size

IMG_20210730_190144_0

But where I think this excels over the typical DIY kits is in the operation. It comes with a controller that you can have in Manual mode and set the fan speed from 6 different options; or you have in Auto mode and it will adjust the fan operation and speed according to the temperature probe that comes with the kit and you mount behind the fridge

IMG_20210730_132230_0

For me, this is a better solution than any of the DIY options, including the ones I have installed for others and incorporating a temp controller, but is it worth the extra expense?
I guess I would ask myself would I buy the same kit again or would I DIY a setup? For my Compressor Fridge, I think the extra cooling is not so critical so 50/50 if extra features is worth the extra expense. (I did add this still as I knew my previous compressor fridge in my last van really did benefit from the forced air flow onto the compressor).
If I still had my 3-Way Thetford, I would 100% go for the more advanced and expensive kit to optimize the cooling.

This is the same as we have fitted. It wasn't a cheap option, but I just didn't want the faff! And it comes with an auto option through the temperature sensor, so we just leave that on when it is hot.

 

[gypo]

I’ll probably go for this setup, my previous van I did the DIY one with a temp sensor etc but as you have pointed out also I can’t bring doing with the faffing this time.

 

[Chasn]

I have just ordered an Alpicool compressor fridge to replace my existing 3 way fridge. As we mainly wild camp I had already upgraded to 600Ah lithium and ran the 3 way on an inverter. The problem with that setup was that the fridge consumed 15A when running and the inverter used 1A even when the fridge was at temperature. Given that the running time was at least wide that of a compressor fridge you can see the motivation to change. The Alpicool runs on 12v at 80W (7A). If you wish to run it on 230v it comes with a stepdown power lead but that is pointless in a campervan.

 

[gypo]

Am I right in thinking that compressor fridges are noisy?

 

[wildebus]

Am I right in thinking that compressor fridges are noisy?

No.

 

[wildebus]

I have just ordered an Alpicool compressor fridge to replace my existing 3 way fridge. As we mainly wild camp I had already upgraded to 600Ah lithium and ran the 3 way on an inverter. The problem with that setup was that the fridge consumed 15A when running and the inverter used 1A even when the fridge was at temperature. Given that the running time was at least wide that of a compressor fridge you can see the motivation to change. The Alpicool runs on 12v at 80W (7A).

You would have found that the 3-way ran most of the time consuming the 15A - probably around 80% of the time as a minimum, whereas the Compressor Fridge would be running more like 1/3rd of the time, so a major difference.
Doesn't matter if you had a 12V DC or 240V AC, you will get a similar duty cycle for a Compressor unit. Overall, I have found a Compressor Fridge will have seven times the efficiency of a 3-Way Absorption Fridge when run on Electric.

If you wish to run it on 230v it comes with a stepdown power lead but that is pointless in a campervan.

Not as pointless as you might think. If you were on EHU, then using the 240V option means you are using the hookup directly bypassing the 12V hab system. If you use it on 12V when on EHU, the power will be via the Charger and battry system, so reducing the charging power to the battery system. May be irrelevant in some cases, but if there is only a small charger fitted, it might be a significant percentage of power being diverted away from the battery?

 

[gypo]

that’s good to know, I’m thinking of a compressor cool box for in the garage thus doubling the cold wine and beer capacity!

 

[wildebus]

that’s good to know, I’m thinking of a compressor cool box for in the garage thus doubling the cold wine and beer capacity!

The top-loading compressor coolboxes are really good and efficient.

 

[gypo]

Thank you, I’ve currently got 2x115ah agm batteries and an 80w panel. Would this be enough to run one of those?
Thanks
D

 

[wildebus]

Thank you, I’ve currently got 2x115ah agm batteries and an 80w panel. Would this be enough to run one of those?
Thanks
D

In the summertime, an 80W panel could produce just enough power to replace the power the coolbox would use. It depends how much power you find you currently have spare per day really to how successful it would be adding this.
One feature that is really good with Compressor Fridges is how fast they cool down to temp compared to an absorption fridge, so if it is very much a 'drinks' fridge, then you could have it set slightly higher than a food fridge and turn off overnight to save power if you needed to.

 

[gypo]

Thank you, I think I’ll give it a go and if I have to I might have enough room on the roof for another 80w panel, hopefully that should be enough then?
Thanks
D

 

[Chasn]

You would have found that the 3-way ran most of the time consuming the 15A - probably around 80% of the time as a minimum, whereas the Compressor Fridge would be running more like 1/3rd of the time, so a major difference.
Doesn't matter if you had a 12V DC or 240V AC, you will get a similar duty cycle for a Compressor unit. Overall, I have found a Compressor Fridge will have seven times the efficiency of a 3-Way Absorption Fridge when run on Electric.



Not as pointless as you might think. If you were on EHU, then using the 240V option means you are using the hookup directly bypassing the 12V hab system. If you use it on 12V when on EHU, the power will be via the Charger and battry system, so reducing the charging power to the battery system. May be irrelevant in some cases, but if there is only a small charger fitted, it might be a significant percentage of power being diverted away from the battery?

Horses for courses. Apart from in storage I very rarely use EHU.