Ford Transit Imobiliser .. A Thought

QFour

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Ford Transit Immobiliser .. A Thought

I was sitting at my desk when I suddenly thought about an immobilizer. We used to have one on the boat. Turn the big red key and no electrics. That would stop the sods starting it as they then have to try and find the switch. Now this could be a remote switch. Biggest problem of course is the electronics. All modern vehicles seem to have a computer running all the while waiting for you to press a button to open a door but they have to be very energy efficient so will not draw a lot of power. The starter motor however draws considerable power so you just put a 10 amp fuse between the terminals. If anyone tries to start it without the immobiliser key in all it does is blows the fuse and that's the end of that.

Just a thought ...

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On my old Viva I had a switch which only turned off the coil, this meant any one trying to start it would find all working but not starting, someone did break in it but couldn't start it.
It might be possible to isolate something like the high pressure injector pump?
 
When I ran a Bedford CF I had an isolating switch with a removable key in the positive wire from the battery to the starter motor which cut off everything.

Of course, it didn't have an encoded radio (OK, no radio at all), no clock, no electric door locks nor any of the other gadgets we now take for granted.

What the simple solution is now, I'm not sure.
 
I too have been pondering this issue and my plan is to interrupt the coil feed to the fuel pump relay (i still have to identify this wire) then put a key-switch in series with it so when the key-switch is open circuit the fuel pump relay will not energise. Interrupting this rather than the actual power feed to the fuel pump reduces the problems with switching the high current circuit and any voltage drop issues. Anyone got a Mk7 diagram with wire colours?
Dave
 
I too have been pondering this issue and my plan is to interrupt the coil feed to the fuel pump relay (i still have to identify this wire) then put a key-switch in series with it so when the key-switch is open circuit the fuel pump relay will not energise. Interrupting this rather than the actual power feed to the fuel pump reduces the problems with switching the high current circuit and any voltage drop issues. Anyone got a Mk7 diagram with wire colours?
Dave

Make up two leads with a spade connectors same as the fuse part. Put in an inline fuse between them. Remove the fuse to relay and replace with home made one. MH should start and run correctly. You can now extend the wires to a switch somewhere. Don't think the would be thieves are going to hang about trying to work out what's been done to the wiring.

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I have a battery isolator fitted, with a 10amp fuse bridging the contacts. When the key/switch is open and key removed the radio holds its memory, the alarm and remote locking all work fine. If any attempt is made to start the vehicle then the fuse blows and immobilises it.
Only caveat is make sure you carry a spare fuse because I can guarantee you will forget one day! If the fuse is blown, it's no major disaster, insert the key and all power is restored.
 
basic immobliser

i bought one of these from ebay 252054327587,its well made/heavy duty,what i reckon/hope is that most thieves wont be expecting it or agile enough to cut it off,i also have a crooklock which is visable and manufacturers immobiliser, it all helps,all the best. jan
 
My prefered method is a normally closed fuel shutoff solenoid inserted in the fuel line somewhere out of sight. Operated by a hidden switch. If it should fail the cover can be removed and the actuator can be wedged on. £5.99 on ebay.
 
Surely the use of visable extra door deadlocks are more effective the will be tempted to move on to a easy van. If they get in and then get frustrated they are prone to do extensive damage in frustration.

Visable deadlocks and a good alarm seems best.

A near neighbour had his nearly new Transit and £10000 ponds of equipment ( he is a BR contractor ) taken off his drive in December He had no extra security on his van although I had told him about the ease of stealing not only van and equipment but loss of a month's wage.

Alf
 
One for the boffins. What about fitting a dummy osd re wired to short out when laptop is plugged in ,fried laptop!!! On second thoughts no, they might get the ump and the fry the van,
 
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Watch out when fitting one of these isolators if you have a more modern motorhome.
Guy who owned our Hymer had one fitted to the vehicle battery ground wire.
But the vehicle battery is also connected to the leisure battery system via the Schaudt electroblock. And guess what, i turned the ignition on with the key and everything came alive even with the vehicle battery ground disconnected.
Spoke to Schaudt and they strongly advised to removed the isolater switch.
 
i bought one of these from ebay 252054327587,its well made/heavy duty,what i reckon/hope is that most thieves wont be expecting it or agile enough to cut it off

Hi Jan,

PLEASE don't relay on a Clutch lock of any kind.

You don't need a clutch to drive a van (or car).

Just put it in first gear, turn the starter and the van will start and drive off in first gear, then by judging the revs carefully, you can change gears as you wish without a clutch.

Regards,

Paul
 
thanks for the warning,i dont rely on it,it fits on my throttle pedal,all the best,jan
 
thanks for the warning,i dont rely on it,it fits on my throttle pedal,all the best,jan

My understanding, on the basis of another recent security-related thread, is that thieves may simply cut off the pedal itself in order to remove a security device from the pedal arm, and then simply drive off using their feet on the pedal arm. To remove the Krooklok type, another option is apparently to cut through the steering wheel and deform it in order to remove the device.

Tom
 
Visible deterrents

Surely the use of visable extra door deadlocks are more effective the will be tempted to move on to a easy van. If they get in and then get frustrated they are prone to do extensive damage in frustration.

Visable deadlocks and a good alarm seems best.

A near neighbour had his nearly new Transit and £10000 ponds of equipment ( he is a BR contractor ) taken off his drive in December He had no extra security on his van although I had told him about the ease of stealing not only van and equipment but loss of a month's wage.

Alf

I agree that these are good to supplement an alarm system
 

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