Electrobloc EBL99 standard vs. gel charger setting.

Sharpie

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I've had to replace my two AGM habitation batteries, and after research chose the 12v 90AH Varta LFD 90 from Alpha Batteries, with the forum discount, due to be delivered tomorrow.

Also researched the charger in my Electrobloc EBL99 and discovered that on the standard setting it only charges at up to 16A to 14.3 V, maintains 14.3V for one hour, then drops to a float voltage. This suggests to me that at best it will only put about 16Ah into the batteries. (minus whatever goes into the starter). That doesn't seem like anything enough.

Whereas on the gel setting it still only puts out 14.3V, but sustains it for eight hours I think. That seems rather better to me, potentially fully replenishing the bank (I am particular about trying never to drop below 50% discharge) but would there be any downside to just using the gel setting permanently, even just for topping up ? It would be a fiddle to have to change the setting back to standard for that.

I also suspect that my AGM batteries were never getting a full charge, 14.3V being far too low, and only for one hour before it dropped to a float voltage, which might explain a few things.

Alternatively should I fit a better charger, there is space next to the Electrobloc, and a socket on it to connect one. If so, what would be recommended ?

Thank you for any advice.
 
If your EBL only charges for one hour then it must be a very old one and should be binned anyway.
 
Have a look at this website, it covers all things to do with camper electrics and batteries:

Motorhome/Caravan Servicing, repairs for most Battery Chargers

In particular the reference to Schaudt Elektroblock:

Schaudt Elektroblock EBL 99 Repairs at PS130 including VAT. EBL 100, EBL101, etc

Sadly, Allan has passed away, but Martin will be glad to help you.
 
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Have a look at this website, it covers all things to do with camper electrics and batteries:

Motorhome/Caravan Servicing, repairs for most Battery Chargers

Sadly, Allan has passed away, but Martin will be glad to help you.

It seems that his EBL is working fine but it is an older model which only charges for one hour before dropping to a float charge. This could be confirmed if the OP gave a few more details on the model and age of his van.
 
IIRC when using AGM batteries they are normally set to Gel (might be wrong), whatever a EBL99 seems to get the batteries up to charge eventually. AFAIK many chargers nowadays are using lower voltages to avoid damage to batteries.
 
If changing to bosch/varta ditch the old mains charger and fit numax h/duty multi stage with a extra tap of for starter.
 

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If your EBL only charges for one hour then it must be a very old one and should be binned anyway.

It is the standard EBL99. Original equipment on my late 2010 Globecar Globescout. I don't consider it old. It was a popular unit, and must still be giving reliable service in thousands of vans.

Of course there have been continuing product improvements since then, but I've studied the block diagrams of the latest versions and little has actually changed, the original architecture was well thought out.

I am an electronics engineer, but specialised in a different field. I'd not troubled to learn about this stuff previously, just assumed that Globecar/Dethleffs/Schaudt knew what they were doing and it was as good as it gets. Assuming that it "just works" Seems not.

The chargers have become more sophisticated, as expected, just as battery technology has moved on, together with knowledge of how best to use lead acid technology, and the deficiencies of AGM have become apparent. At the time they were supposed to be the best thing, but that seems to have turned out to be hype.

The integral charger is the LAS 1216, rated at 16A. It starts off charging at full current, or at least as much as the batteries can accept, until 14.3 V is reached, then it either does a 1 hour "equalisation charge" at 14.3 V (standard setting), or for 8 hours (gel setting). It can only charge up to 14.3V This is adequate for wet cells, but not ideal for gel, or AGM, which really need higher voltages to charge them properly. After that fixed time it drops back to 13.8V float, which is a maintenance level but not enough to put in any more significant charge.

Sorry if I was unclear.

The 1 hour vs. 8 is the period during which final percentage of charge goes into the battery once it has reached 14.3V. As soon as the voltage falls back to 13.8V, little additional charging will happen. From some things I have read, 1 hour at 14.3V isn't long enough to top up a battery completely. Hence my query.

Just as 14.3V is not high enough to properly charge AGMs, which should never have been fitted originally. They are not compatible, even on the 8 hour gel setting. The gel setting is also not really compatible with gel cells, they also need a higher charging voltage. All the setting does is extend the charge to 8 hours, which might squeeze some more in, but never fully charge them. I suspect it was bodged on. To my mind the charger is only really suitable for wet cells, which I have now. I'm hoping that it will do a better job with these.

My query is whether my new Varta LFD90 batteries (wet cell), or other such things, would be damaged by regular exposure to 8 hours at 14.3 V. I don't see why they should, this is similar to what they will be getting from the alternator, for as many hours as the engine runs, just as the starter battery does. They are dual use, rated as a good starter battery (actually I also replaced my nine year old one (not complaining at that) with the same Varta, standardisation, so it's been an expensive £300 month). Hence why I want to maintain them as best I can.

The Vartas are claimed to have a unique gallery with catalyst, together with lead metallurgy that eliminates gassing under all normal usage, basically sealed, so suitable for un vented installation, essential for my van where they are fitted beneath the driver's seat. No venting tubes (unless I drilled holes in the floor). Nevertheless they came with both gas ports plugged, and a stern warning that one should be removed before use. For backside protection I guess, in case things go wrong.

Installing them requires taking the seat off, including disconnecting the wiring to the seatbelt tensioner pyrotechnics , then the seat swivel, so they have to be fit-and-forget. Slightly worrying when putting it all back together, Re-connecting the seatbelt wiring particularly. It's a big job that requires some non-standard wrenches to fit into very restricted access, that I'm not looking forward having to do again. Goodness knows what a dealer would charge to do it.

Interestingly the OEM starter battery has no obvious venting arrangement, and is a traditional wet one with screw plugs that allow you to inspect electrolyte levels and top up if necessary. Still, it's fitted in a semi-sealed well, albeit inside the van. Fiat must think that's good enough. Would still have preferred to see a vent tube going outside the van.

I realise that there are more sophisticated chargers nowadays, but I would prefer not to have to buy one to add on to the existing Electroblock even though it is already set up with the connections for it. If I can make do with what I've got and not abuse my new batteries I'll be happy. My EBL is working just well as the day I bought the van. It's just that I now know more about its strengths and weaknesses now. I'm certainly not going to bin it.

Succinctly, should I select the gel setting in preference to the standard setting to ensure a full charge with my modern wet cell batteries ? Would there be any downside to this ? Or would it really be worth the cost of adding a more sophisticated charger (an easy job, the EBL has a socket to just plug one in). Bearing in mind that my new batteries cost £200 for two, even if they don't last quite as long on the EBL charger, how many years would it take to break even and recoup the (I'm guessing steep) costs of adding a new charger, rather than just changing the batteries a little sooner ?

FYI, these are the characteristics of the LAS 1216 charger:


Battery charging ...
... on mains supply
camping battery:
charging characteristic * IUoU
maximum charging voltage * 14.3V
charging current * 16A within mains supply range, electronically limited
floating voltage * 13.8V (automatic change-over)
new charging cycle
(change-over to boost-charge) * if battery voltage < approx. 13.8V (approx. 5 sec delay)
3-phase characteristic:
* boost-charge at 16A
(arithmetic mean, electronically limited)
up to maximum charging voltage,
* then equalize-charge at constant 14.3V
(selectable: 1h duration for lead-acid,
8h duration for lead-gel batteries),
* then automatic change-over to float-charge at 13.8V
If due to high loads the 13.8V floating voltage can't be provided the battery charger switches
over from float- to boost-charge after a delay of approx. 5 sec.

...

starter battery:
charging current * trickle-charge of starter battery with max. 2A
 
Have a look at this website, it covers all things to do with camper electrics and batteries:

Motorhome/Caravan Servicing, repairs for most Battery Chargers

In particular the reference to Schaudt Elektroblock:

Schaudt Elektroblock EBL 99 Repairs at PS130 including VAT. EBL 100, EBL101, etc

Sadly, Allan has passed away, but Martin will be glad to help you.

Thanks, that's where I did a lot of my research. Very useful information, freely given. Sad news. My EBL 99 seems to be in fine fettle, touch wood. If it ever conks out I'll know where to go.
 
Thanks, that's where I did a lot of my research. Very useful information, freely given. Sad news. My EBL 99 seems to be in fine fettle, touch wood. If it ever conks out I'll know where to go.

Oops, haven't go hang of how this forum works yet, I was responding to bazziebabes helpful input. Cheers,
 
Hi Sharpie.

I am a bit surprised that a 2010 van was still using the standard EBL99. If my memory serves me well, a later version (EBL99G?) had a 4 hour period of full charge rather than the 1 hour time period. Other versions of the EBL were becoming common around that time which gave a 4 hour full charge period.

Your battery type should be fine on the Gel setting (I have just been on the late Allans website to refresh my memory). Another course of action when off grid would be to allow the 1 hour full charge then switch off the engine and restart, which would give you another hour of full charge.

My previous Burstner had the EBL99 fitted, charging 2 x 110 amp batteries @ 16 amps and putting a 2 amp float charge into the engine battery. I fitted a Schaudt 1218 Solar Regulator (with the conversion kit for the EBL to charge the engine battery from solar) and only once had a problem with low battery level (3 days of Fog and rain). If you do not have Solar fitted, I would recommend it. Solar keeps the batteries maintained to a higher voltage and you don't get the deep discharges that count as 'cycles' and contribute to battery degradation. I just use Numax batteries which are not as good (apparently) as the Bosch or Yuasa but I get 5 years use from them before they show signs of failing. Of course this will not be as much use help to you if you regularly use a large inverter and cane the batteries.
 
Venting

Sharpie, my globecar campscout 2012 still has original starter battery and there is a vent tube that comes out of the battery tray below the van; perhaps the tube dropped off?
 
Sharpie, our 2011 Globecar has the EBL99 (not sure if there are different mk's of these), combined with a 85w solar panel(connected straight to LB) it has worked well enough for us apart from solar not charging the VB. This week I'm part way throu replacing the 8y.o. Banner AGM with two 75ah Varta's, am awaiting a few parts to finish which I didn't order until getting the seat off and seeing what was what. My only issue was lifting the seat as I'm awaiting a operation, so I had help, which worked out really easy by dropping table to bed height covering and putting seat on there, all tools came straight out my tool bag. The only reason we are upping capacity (by approx. 50% to 150ah) is because we now have two electric bikes to charge, otherwise I would have just replaced with a 90ah Varta.
https://i.imgur.com/zxpJuJv.jpg
 
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Martin at the link given is very helpful and knowledgeable about all the EBL units. I got a lot of goid info from him when I was trying to figure out what I had and what I needed. Emails are usually responded to in 24 hours.
 
Interesting thread.

My 2009 Adria Twin has the Schaudt Electrobloc EBL 208 S E.

In 2013 I fitted a 140W solar panel connected to the Electrobloc via a Schaudt LR 1218 Solar Charge Regulator, which also charges the vehicle battery.

At the same time I replaced the small fitted gel battery with 2 x Alphaline 12v 125AH, Marine, Caravan, Leisure batteries. The Electrobloc is switched to ‘Lead-Acid’.

In five years we have had no battery problems, our power usage is minimal – lights (mainly LED), heater fan, water pump, vehicle radio (which I rewired to the leisure battery) and charging devices, so the setup is probably over-engineered. Just measured the voltages - leisure batteries 14.10v and vehicle battery 14.07v.
 
Sharpie, our 2011 Globecar has the EBL99 (not sure if there are different mk's of these), combined with a 85w solar panel(connected straight to LB) it has worked well enough for us apart from solar not charging the VB. This week I'm part way throu replacing the 8y.o. Banner AGM with two 75ah Varta's, am awaiting a few parts to finish which I didn't order until getting the seat off and seeing what was what. My only issue was lifting the seat as I'm awaiting a operation, so I had help, which worked out really easy by dropping table to bed height covering and putting seat on there, all tools came straight out my tool bag. The only reason we are upping capacity (by approx. 50% to 150ah) is because we now have two electric bikes to charge, otherwise I would have just replaced with a 90ah Varta.
https://i.imgur.com/zxpJuJv.jpg

The solar panel cannot be wire direct to batt,it must have a regulator to set voltage and ensure no over charging.
 
Hi Sharpie.

I am a bit surprised that a 2010 van was still using the standard EBL99. If my memory serves me well, a later version (EBL99G?) had a 4 hour period of full charge rather than the 1 hour time period. Other versions of the EBL were becoming common around that time which gave a 4 hour full charge period.

Your battery type should be fine on the Gel setting (I have just been on the late Allans website to refresh my memory). Another course of action when off grid would be to allow the 1 hour full charge then switch off the engine and restart, which would give you another hour of full charge.

My previous Burstner had the EBL99 fitted, charging 2 x 110 amp batteries @ 16 amps and putting a 2 amp float charge into the engine battery. I fitted a Schaudt 1218 Solar Regulator (with the conversion kit for the EBL to charge the engine battery from solar) and only once had a problem with low battery level (3 days of Fog and rain). If you do not have Solar fitted, I would recommend it. Solar keeps the batteries maintained to a higher voltage and you don't get the deep discharges that count as 'cycles' and contribute to battery degradation. I just use Numax batteries which are not as good (apparently) as the Bosch or Yuasa but I get 5 years use from them before they show signs of failing. Of course this will not be as much use help to you if you regularly use a large inverter and cane the batteries.

Thanks, I've decided to use the gel setting and see how that goes.

My Globecar was the display model from the Autumn 2010 NEC show, kitted out with every possible option, only delivered from Germany the previous week, under 50 miles on the clock. The Electroblock manual that came with it is for the EBL99 with LAS 1216 so I assume that this is what I have, it is labelled EBL 99, no suffix. Later versions had the LAS 1218 charger which is improved, and I think still current, but I don't think I have that, having experimented with a multimeter to see what's going on. I do seem to have only 1 hour at 14.3 V on standard setting. The basic LED display doesn't even read above 13.5 V, so is pretty useless. I have a plan to add a little digital display to give me precise readings instead of fiddling with the multimeter.

When driving, the EBL is just a split-charge relay. Once the engine is running and the alternator voltage is high enough, the habitation batteries are simply connected to the alternator (actually the starter battery) directly through the relay via a 50A fuse. There are no clever electronics in the loop. The absorption fridge is also fed from this and can take a hefty current as well. I think that this is still the way most modern EBLs still work.

Fiat don't over-size their alternators, just running the engine, powering the massive radiator and aircon fans in hot weather, and all the rest of the body, takes a lot. Neither are the alternators designed to push out their headline figures continuously. They are a peak rating, not continuous, based on moderate air temperatures, and are de-rated when the air gets hotter, though you have to delve deeply to discover that. It's surprising how well they actually work, or at least survive.

I've also learned that the bonding straps between alternator/engine/gearbox/chassis on the Ducato can be a weak point and subject to deterioration so I'll be taking a look at mine later.

Drive around in mountainous regions, in 40C plus temperatures, slowly climbing mountain passes, all fans blasting, puts a big strain on everything. It's what I like to do. That's before considerations of also supporting the habitation bank. Anything that goes in there is a bonus. Engine compartment temperatures (also alternator cooling air) become very high, you can burn your hands opening the bonnet at the summit to try to let things cool down a little.

I don't usually have a problem keeping the starter battery charged, the van gets regular runs. Yes the Ducato has heavy parasitic drain that can flatten it in a month, but if laying up there is an isolator switch fitted in the compartment for just this purpose, part of the connection to the positive terminal. Seems not to be widely known.

It's not much trouble to lift the lid and disconnect it. Only complication is that my van is a left hand drive chassis with the steering wheel on the right. The passenger door is central locking only, no key, and opening it is the way to access the starter battery hatch, so you have to close it and central-lock it, leaving the hatch open before isolating, then leave through the drivers door with key lock.

Otherwise you can't lock the passenger or sliding doors, or retract the electric step (I wish they would put a manual crank on these in case of failure, they are pretty ropey at the best of times). Also a good reason to always check that the starter battery is OK before opening one of the central-locking-only doors from the inside. If it is flat you can't lock the doors until it is fixed. Why couldn't they just put a key lock on all doors ?

My worst case usage is wildcamping or otherwise off-hookup in winter (ski resorts etc.) when the Truma Combi heating is used all night at low level. When skiing or otherwise sub-zero it has to be left on 24/7 to avoid total freeze-up. I can manage two or three days of this being frugal with the other drains whilst not exceeding 50% discharge. I don't think solar would be much help in winter, even if the panel wasn't covered in snow, so I have a small quiet generator which I can run for a while to put back some charge, whilst also charging up the laptops, phones, tablets, even cooking on the Remoska.

In ski resorts there is sometimes a designated period in early evening for generator use. There is no other practical option. Spoke with several people with Efoy fuel cell set-ups who were disappointed, regretted their expensive purchases, the rip-off prices for the methanol, and were using their little generators once more.

The generator was a godsend when the original Banner AGMs failed. Previously had seemed fine, no issues for the first week of the trip, then suddenly completely dead, no gradual degradation. Wildcamping midwinter in Scotland, parked by a beach in a bay. So cold that the sea froze hard enough to walk on the next morning, at least 10 yards out (we bottled it after that). The generator ran all night, sipped very little petrol, and kept the Truma operating. We had to rely on the Kipor for the rest of the trip, it is an essential for me.

I do have a 185 watt solar panel which I bought in an early fit of enthusiasm, but have not fitted it, having realised that in summer I don't need it, I use very little electricity, usually moving on every few days between Aires or wild camping, or on ACSI sites which include at least 7A hookup. And in winter it would be of little benefit. Plus it would eat into my payload allowance and add further complexity, which I try to avoid.

As it is, with 48 kilos of batteries under the drivers seat, I am perilously close to the plated front axle limit despite every attempt to move the mass rearwards. I looked into re-plating from 3.3 to 3.5 tonnes, but that would be a pointless expensive paper exercise, axle limits would remain the same. It's the front axle limit of 1750 kg on the 3.3 tonne chassis that is the problem, not the total mass. Having a 125 litre fuel tank up front doesn't help either, I very rarely brim it, that would give me a 1000 mile range, a pointless bonus option on my van, I don't want to lug around up to 100 kilos of diesel, never mind the expense of a complete fill-up.

My inverter is a little 300W job, only used briefly for charging or powering the few bits of kit that don't use 12V. Nevertheless it could draw 30A fully loaded. I'd say that is as much as is sensible, I don't have a need for kilowatt class inverters. Nor could my batteries support such load for long, and it would be brutal to even try. Besides, my little generator can do that, where circumstances (noise) allow.

If I was unfortunate enough to have a compressor fridge, certainly good solar would be top of my list. Otherwise, for my usage, I don't need it, as nearly nine years of experience has shown me.
 
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A smaller lightweight solar panel would solve the dreaded Fiat engine battery drain for you, something like an 80 or 100 watt panel. It would also act as a leisure battery maintainer. You could even buy a folding, freestanding panel and fit a plug and socket connection to get solar power whenever convenient. I have a 100 watt panel on the roof and carry a plug-in 90 watt panel for when conditions are poor. It is rarely needed but is useful.

I still have the EBL wiring adaptor here from my last van. I swapped the LR1218 over to the new van and Allan Evans supplied me with the wiring needed to connect it to my Reich Ebox system. If it is any use to you, you can have it for the price of the postage. It will put a solar charge into your engine battery as well as the leisure batteries. It is simplicity itself to fit. I could have offered you the LR1218 as well but I am close to another Medical to retain the C1 on my licence. I don't want to spend money on an MPPT regulator for the van if I fail the Medical and have to downsize or pack in motorhoming.
 
colinmd;1024073 said:
Sharpie, our 2011 Globecar has the EBL99 (not sure if there are different mk's of these), combined with a 85w solar panel(connected straight to LB) it has worked well enough for us apart from solar not charging the VB. This week I'm part way throu replacing the 8y.o. Banner AGM with two 75ah Varta's, am awaiting a few parts to finish which I didn't order until getting the seat off and seeing what was what. My only issue was lifting the seat as I'm awaiting a operation, so I had help, which worked out really easy by dropping table to bed height covering and putting seat on there, all tools came straight out my tool bag. The only reason we are upping capacity (by approx. 50% to 150ah) is because we now have two electric bikes to charge, otherwise I would have just replaced with a 90ah Varta.

Somebody, in their wisdom, at Dethleffs fitted the drivers' seat and the swivel using permanent threadlock.

My good neighbour saw me struggling and came to my assistance, he is a vehicle mechanic with every tool you could imagine, mostly Snap-On.

The seat is bolted to the swivel, on the top are the heads of the bolts, only accessible with a cranked Allen key, the nuts are below, again only accessible with a spanner, not a socket. My B+Q key just twisted and chewed up, I feared for the heads of the bolts but thankfully the key (made of cheese ?) had sacrificed itself, the threadlock onto the nuts was that strong. My Halfords spanners (their best ones, the fancy sort that engage on the flats, not the corners) were beginning to chew up the nuts as well. My neighbour's tools were made of stronger stuff and fitted precisely, even so we needed an extension tube on his key, and a long spanner on the nut to crack them.

Then we got to the swivel, six glued in torx bolts to remove. My puny Lidl torx socket just shattered once I had applied my long handle extension. He applied a serious impact driver usually used for taking wheel nuts off lorries, with his impact-rated bit. All or nothing. Which was successful.

It could all have gone horribly wrong, that unnecessary threadlock was a PITA.

I learned that day why professionals buy quality tools.

It should be smoother this time, but still a hassle. I usually enjoy working on things, but I'm not looking forward to this job. Booked my neighbour to help again, he's much younger than me and I've found that lugging 24kg batteries about and lowering them into very tight spaces, trying not to snag the other wiring under the seat (its very tight under there), is nowadays right at the limit, or beyond, my strength. Just unpacking the three (Alpha really do pack them well) then shifting them about to fully charge them up in readiness exhausted me and my back is suffering.

The passenger seat hasn't been off yet, but I anticipate much the same again. The Electroblock lives under it, and from what I can see the seat and swivel would have to come off to remove it, if that was ever necessary.

Once LiFePO4, or whatever (NiFe is also making a come-back) become slightly more affordable and proven good, I'd convert in an instant. So many benefits, but I still think it's early days before real life usage confirms the remarkable promises, and sifts out the good ones from the perhaps less good. Lots of people having a go at making them, maybe using the same cells, but they are reliant on complicated invisible embedded battery management systems, some of which will be better than others.

There is also an issue at low temperatures, not even sub-zero, Lithium technologies don't work well when it gets chilly.

As an electronics engineer working in mil-aerospace I distrust complicated power electronics built to consumer standards, so try to avoid them in personal life.

Meanwhile I'm hoping that my third set of new wet cells will do better than my previous two sets of AGMs, which frankly have been a disappointment. Actually the second set, Alpha own-brand, out-performed the original Banners by far, at half the price.
 
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