Electric problem

A
Actually, another thanks to r4dent, if he hadn't asked for a pic of the consumer unit I would never of spotted that label. The unit is side on and difficult to get my head in the cupboard to see the unit face on. The master switch has clicked off on a couple of occasions but has reset once clicked on again, this time though it just wouldn't reset - until I pressed that grey button in which I have never noticed or used before.
Anything physically contacting grey button or switches ?
 
Ral I may be remembering wrongly and I am sure our sparks will correct this if I am BUT. I seem to recall last time I had a problem with my mains tripping out it turned out to be corrosion in the 240V hookup socket on the van. I know my memory isn't brilliant but I am almost sure a new socket cured it but wait for someone with more no how before you do anything here :)
 
I guess there must be a contact point at the back of the push button?
Yes there is, it simply connects a dummy resistor to the supply to simulate an earth fault. The fact that this resistor was permanently connected WITHOUT the button being pressed is somewhat puzzling, FWIW I'd probably swap the RCCB out for a new one because it MAY start playing up again in the future and there's no guarantee you'll be able to fiddle around with the button to get it to reset next time.
They are less than £20 at screwfix and a dead easy swap for a pro sparky like you Ral ;)
 
Yes there is, it simply connects a dummy resistor to the supply to simulate an earth fault. The fact that this resistor was permanently connected WITHOUT the button being pressed is somewhat puzzling, FWIW I'd probably swap the RCCB out for a new one because it MAY start playing up again in the future and there's no guarantee you'll be able to fiddle around with the button to get it to reset next time.
They are less than £20 at screwfix and a dead easy swap for a pro sparky like you Ral ;)
No he relied on the blind luck option instead ;)

But the good news is he's up and running.

Willing to bet he doesnt take Meri's advise and swap the RCCB
I am considering but I will consult an electrician of lesser standing than myself exactly how you swap with a new one without frying the MH or myself.
 
I am considering but I will consult an electrician of lesser standing than myself exactly how you swap with a new one without frying the MH or myself.
REMOVE EHU LEAD FROM VAN.
Remove front cover from CU.
Loosen 4 cable clamp screws on RCCB and pull the cables out.
Insert screwdriver into tab to release the RCCB from DIN rail.
Snap new RCCB onto DIN rail and reverse the whole process above.
 
REMOVE EHU LEAD FROM VAN.
Remove front cover from CU.
Loosen 4 cable clamp screws on RCCB and pull the cables out.
Insert screwdriver into tab to release the RCCB from DIN rail.
Snap new RCCB onto DIN rail and reverse the whole process above.
I'm shaking just reading that. I shall consult You Tube and watch it on video. Pictures rule!
 
Ral, just remember you have to do this with the MH plugged in to EHU, best to be fresh out of the shower and not dried. 😉
Just remember Ral, a screwdriver is the long pointy one with a thin tip thats flat or cross shaped on the end of it, a hammer is the one with a lump of metal on the end of it that`s heavy 😵‍💫
In your case Ral it’s also got a lump of something much more blunt on the other end.
You barstewards.

1731490944630.png
 
Yes there is, it simply connects a dummy resistor to the supply to simulate an earth fault. The fact that this resistor was permanently connected WITHOUT the button being pressed is somewhat puzzling, FWIW I'd probably swap the RCCB out for a new one because it MAY start playing up again in the future and there's no guarantee you'll be able to fiddle around with the button to get it to reset next time.
They are less than £20 at screwfix and a dead easy swap for a pro sparky like you Ral ;)
Would the RCCB in your link be compatible and a direct swap for the faulty RCCB in my photo?
 
Would the RCCB in your link be compatible and a direct swap for the faulty RCCB in my photo?
It's electrically compatible yes Ral, it'll just have 4 connections in the same/similar places that do exactly the same thing. My guess is it would also be physically compatible too. It'll certainly mount the same because they both clip onto a din rail, the width is standard too but sometimes the height of the aperture in the front cover is slightly different, and sometimes the body can project too far forward and this prevents the front cover fitting , usually you simply trim the aperture slightly. If it turns out to be a bad fit just take the old one with you when you take it back to Screwfix and they'll get a couple of different brands and you can compare them side by side. Alternatively remove the old unit and take it with you to Screwfix when you collect and compare it while you're there.
 
It's electrically compatible yes Ral, it'll just have 4 connections in the same/similar places that do exactly the same thing. My guess is it would also be physically compatible too. It'll certainly mount the same because they both clip onto a din rail, the width is standard too but sometimes the height of the aperture in the front cover is slightly different, and sometimes the body can project too far forward and this prevents the front cover fitting , usually you simply trim the aperture slightly. If it turns out to be a bad fit just take the old one with you when you take it back to Screwfix and they'll get a couple of different brands and you can compare them side by side. Alternatively remove the old unit and take it with you to Screwfix when you collect and compare it while you're there.
Thanks Merl.
 
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