EGR fault code. Ducato x250 2.3

yeoblade

yeoblade

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The EML come on recently, I downloaded the fault and it was an EGR fault. Yes this emissions crap!
I cleared the fault and it hasn't come on in the last 100miles, exhaust pipe was looking a bit sooty inside.

So I have bought a can of magic EGR Wynns cleaner any one had success with this stuff? or changed the EGR valve on a 2012 2.3l 130bhp
 
yeoblade said:
The EML come on recently, I downloaded the fault and it was an EGR fault. Yes this emissions crap!
I cleared the fault and it hasn't come on in the last 100miles, exhaust pipe was looking a bit sooty inside.

So I have bought a can of magic EGR Wynns cleaner any one had success with this stuff? or changed the EGR valve on a 2012 2.3l 130bhp
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Giving a good thrashing between gear changes. We tend to drive our diesels at low revs an never get anywhere near high revs which they need now and then to give them a good clear out.
 
Euro4 Ducato's rarely have a problem with EGR, not sure about Euro5 like yours. x250 Pugs and Citroens often have EGR problems.
Our van threw up plenty of fault codes when the mice got in filter, EGR was one of those.
 
caledonia said:
Giving a good thrashing between gear changes. We tend to drive our diesels at low revs an never get anywhere near high revs which they need now and then to give them a good clear out.
Click to expand...
Yes I did drive it in a lower gear for a while to give it some higher revs for while and a bit off soot did blow out
 
In some of the Peugeot handbooks it states every so often as cal stated take the revs up and hold in a high gear to purge the emissions and every now and again a tin of FORTE treatment won't harm it I used to run vehicles on the m8 from new bridge to Livingston to clear em
 
had the egr light on mine tried all the recommended steps turned out to be a hole in the intercooler pipe as a bonus after 5 years the flat spot on my acceleration has gone pulls up hills in 5th & and gained 2 or 3 mpg
 
yeoblade said:
The EML come on recently, I downloaded the fault and it was an EGR fault. Yes this emissions crap!
I cleared the fault and it hasn't come on in the last 100miles, exhaust pipe was looking a bit sooty inside.

So I have bought a can of magic EGR Wynns cleaner any one had success with this stuff? or changed the EGR valve on a 2012 2.3l 130bhp
Click to expand...
How many miles has your engine done ?
Once an EGR valve is clogged up and not moving the only way to clean it is to take it off and give it a proper clean. You will need a lot of tins of wynns to clean it out in situ and do you really want all that gunge going through your engine? Most diesel mechanics will tell you thet you are wasting your time with spray in cleaner. Best to take it off , scrape all the gunge out ( the big bits) then use petrol or Wynns to clean it using old tooth brushes ...oh and wear rubber gloves or it will take you two weeks to get the black oily Carbon filled gunge off your hands, it is awful stuff.
 
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After a garage inspection they diagnosed the fault not to be the EGR (as per fault code downloaded suggested) but the turbo.
The rod that actuates the turbo variable vanes lever had broke on the pivot point.
£1,000 to replace the turbo !
The turbo isn't giving much boost now
 

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I had the same thing happen to my 1800cc Ford Mondeo TDi , the boost suddenly stopped . I took it to a diesel mechanic at the local Lucas workshop .
I was told a connecting rod had broken loose , it took a while to discover the fault but no parts required , just £45 for their time . ( 1996 prices )
 
yeoblade said:
After a garage inspection they diagnosed the fault not to be the EGR (as per fault code downloaded suggested) but the turbo.
The rod that actuates the turbo variable vanes lever had broke on the pivot point.
£1,000 to replace the turbo !
The turbo isn't giving much boost now
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Ouch. Can that not be welded back on though? Or drill it and put a bolt through? Temperature could be an issue with that though...
 
argoose said:
Can you not buy cheapest eBay turbo and transplant the required parts to yours?
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st3v3 said:
Ouch. Can that not be welded back on though? Or drill it and put a bolt through? Temperature could be an issue with that though...
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Yes it looks £$%^ design or some problem with the actuating rod being rigid, as it should move in an arc as it rotates the turbo vane lever. It has broken of a 6mm pivot pin!

I've looked on eBay, their turbos are only £190. suspect quality!

Inkedturbo_LI.jpg

I am having my MOT mechanic , I know, to look at welding it, it's just very hard to get to, but he said 'If I can see it I can weld it'
 
Can you clarify, as what you have posted doesn't seem quite correct, is it the rod, or the lever, or the shaft? If it was the rod then it looks like a cheap fix, the lever or shaft, not so much so.
 
yeoblade said:
After a garage inspection they diagnosed the fault not to be the EGR (as per fault code downloaded suggested) but the turbo.
The rod that actuates the turbo variable vanes lever had broke on the pivot point.
£1,000 to replace the turbo !
The turbo isn't giving much boost now
Click to expand...
The rod looks like it just goes to the wastegate. Normally a simple linkage.
 
From your photo, a small bolt with a couple of nuts will sort it.
The two nuts tightened against each other will lock them in place, leaving free play on the actuator.
1631371800196.png
1631371800196.png
 
colinm said:
Can you clarify, as what you have posted doesn't seem quite correct, is it the rod, or the lever, or the shaft? If it was the rod then it looks like a cheap fix, the lever or shaft, not so much so.
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The pin (6mm dia.) has broken off the lever. It is in to limited a space to dill a hole and fit a new pin (or threaded/lock nut arrangement) Hopefully the old one can be welded back on , it was originally swaged in place. The lever moves freely so not seized.

SquirrellCook said:
The rod looks like it just goes to the wastegate. Normally a simple linkage.
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Thanks yes.
 
yeoblade said:
The pin (6mm dia.) has broken off the lever. It is in to limited a space to dill a hole and fit a new pin (or threaded/lock nut arrangement) Hopefully the old one can be welded back on , it was originally swaged in place. The lever moves freely so not seized.


Thanks yes.
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Better to remove the turbo and do the job properly.
 
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