Eberspacher stopped working

Fisherman said:
Carol, sorry but you have to deal with the reality of your situation when wild camping, and heating a van up all night in winter without hook up is simply not possible with today’s technology. Possibly when lithium batteries get better and cheaper we will all have four or five of them on board, backed up by much improved solar panels, and then it will be possible.

The same applies to water, toilet cassette, and other uses of power, they are all limited, and that’s what makes wild camping fun for me and my wife. I much prefer wild camping with all it’s limitations to a caravan site..
Click to expand...


Quite agree with all that.

Caravan sites are boring!
 
spigot said:
Quite agree with all that.

Caravan sites are boring!
Click to expand...

They have their place spigot, and we have been to some excellent sites.

But there’s something about sitting next to a beautiful lake or by the sea surrounded by mountains and no one else in sight that makes it so appealing. But after three nights it’s of to a site, empty the loo, fill the water tank, empty the grey water, and hsve a good shower, then out on the road next morning. :camper:
 
I'm curious about the comment that you can't expect to be able to heat a camper continuously overnight without hookup?

Electric heater - yes, I'd agree (although I have run an electric blanket overnight if that counts ;) )

But a Gas or Diesel Heater? Surely so!
I did a power usage test on my 'Chinese' Diesel heater and once started it drew around 20W/hour (so say 1.8Ah/hour for those who like that type of measurement) - that is not excessive at all I think and apparently the genuine Eberspachers are more electrically efficient as well.
 
wildebus said:
I'm curious about the comment that you can't expect to be able to heat a camper continuously overnight without hookup?

Electric heater - yes, I'd agree (although I have run an electric blanket overnight if that counts ;) )

But a Gas or Diesel Heater? Surely so!
I did a power usage test on my 'Chinese' Diesel heater and once started it drew around 20W/hour (so say 1.8Ah/hour for those who like that type of measurement) - that is not excessive at all I think and apparently the genuine Eberspachers are more electrically efficient as well.
Click to expand...
no idea about electric stuff, but Carver and trumas are room sealed and designed to be used overnight of course all gas ,Alde wet systems too I suspect but don't know much about those

Channa
 
wildebus said:
I'm curious about the comment that you can't expect to be able to heat a camper continuously overnight without hookup?

Electric heater - yes, I'd agree (although I have run an electric blanket overnight if that counts ;) )

But a Gas or Diesel Heater? Surely so!
I did a power usage test on my 'Chinese' Diesel heater and once started it drew around 20W/hour (so say 1.8Ah/hour for those who like that type of measurement) - that is not excessive at all I think and apparently the genuine Eberspachers are more electrically efficient as well.
Click to expand...

I am pretty new to this widebus, but before I took the mh out I carried out some tests.
One was to try out the heating.
I set it to the middle setting then left it on for one hour.
When I got back in the battery had went from full charge to 3/4 charge.
Now when you consider that when going to bed at night we have been using the battery during daytime to watch tv or dvds, lighting, operating the pump etc it normally reads about a 2/3 charge.
I don’t think leaving the heating on all night would be a good idea.

When I get up in the morning I turn on the engine then put on the heating, I find this saves the battery.
 
Fisherman said:
I am pretty new to this widebus, but before I took the mh out I carried out some tests.
One was to try out the heating.
I set it to the middle setting then left it on for one hour.
When I got back in the battery had went from full charge to 3/4 charge.
Now when you consider that when going to bed at night we have been using the battery during daytime to watch tv or dvds, lighting, operating the pump etc it normally reads about a 2/3 charge.
I don’t think leaving the heating on all night would be a good idea.

When I get up in the morning I turn on the engine then put on the heating, I find this saves the battery.
Click to expand...
it is a good idea running the engine for the startup phase - the glowpin takes a lot of power for the time that runs (2-3 minutes) and the engine can make the difference between it starting or no I could imagine in some cases depending on battery capacity.
Running a Diesel heater for say 10 hours will be around 240Wh (~20Ah) - 20% of a reasonable wild-camping battery usable setup (pair of 100Ah Batteries), and could be be replenished well within an hour of engine running, so seems pretty ok?
 
wildebus said:
it is a good idea running the engine for the startup phase - the glowpin takes a lot of power for the time that runs (2-3 minutes) and the engine can make the difference between it starting or no I could imagine in some cases depending on battery capacity.
Running a Diesel heater for say 10 hours will be around 240Wh (~20Ah) - 20% of a reasonable wild-camping battery usable setup (pair of 100Ah Batteries), and could be be replenished well within an hour of engine running, so seems pretty ok?
Click to expand...

We only have one 100ah bettery.

I would like another, but hsve nowhere to house it.
 
Having run a T5 yourself you will be aware or running an Eberspacher correctly.
the biggest problem with running the heaters is most do not know how to use them, in most if not all motorhomes the heaters are poorly installed no attempt to install the correct length of exhaust duct ( its stainless steel quite expensive so huge cost saved by shortening length ) not many fit exhaust silencers ( I always fit 2 ) no one fits intake air silencers ( again I always fit 2 )

The main problem is no one fits a room thermostat most assume the standard turn on unit is a room stat, it is in a way but its the on / off switch, cold air selector switch. The rheostat part has a sensor in the return air duct in the HEATER itself consequently most turn the dial up to 3/4 or full in this position the heater wont turn into the economical fan / heat setting, I run mine on just barely turned on. On cold days such as in the snow on the North Yorks Moors yesterday the heater ran on Full for about 10 / 15 minutes and then turned down to the middle setting for a few minutes and then on to the minimum setting where you cannot hear the heater running you have to feel at the air duct to tell if the fan is running at this setting the power consumption is 8 watt.
My heater is in the double skin under the floor pan so the sensor is in the heater under the floor setting the wall rheostat high it would never turn off so the power consumption would be 34 watts a mighty difference.

It is Always a good idea to run the engine prior to stat up if you use TV's, are a heavy power user or don't move your van for several days as in start up mode the power usage can above 120 watts or 10A depending on the heater condition.

Alf



wildebus said:
it is a good idea running the engine for the startup phase - the glowpin takes a lot of power for the time that runs (2-3 minutes) and the engine can make the difference between it starting or no I could imagine in some cases depending on battery capacity.
Running a Diesel heater for say 10 hours will be around 240Wh (~20Ah) - 20% of a reasonable wild-camping battery usable setup (pair of 100Ah Batteries), and could be be replenished well within an hour of engine running, so seems pretty ok?
Click to expand...
 
I always try to start my heater just before we arrive at our destination , then it does not take the initial heavy start up power direct from the leisure battery when it is not having charge inputted into it
 
We always run our d2 overnight.... (we do have 3 x 100ah leisure batteries though)
Turned it on yesterday before our 120 mile drive down to north Wales....
Sat and watched fireworks at shell island with side door open... Then tucked up and toasty for rest of night...
Still running now as were sat eating fish and chips before walking the hounds on blackrock sands.
 
Alf said:
Having run a T5 yourself you will be aware or running an Eberspacher correctly.
the biggest problem with running the heaters is most do not know how to use them, in most if not all motorhomes the heaters are poorly installed no attempt to install the correct length of exhaust duct ( its stainless steel quite expensive so huge cost saved by shortening length ) not many fit exhaust silencers ( I always fit 2 ) no one fits intake air silencers ( again I always fit 2 )

The main problem is no one fits a room thermostat most assume the standard turn on unit is a room stat, it is in a way but its the on / off switch, cold air selector switch. The rheostat part has a sensor in the return air duct in the HEATER itself consequently most turn the dial up to 3/4 or full in this position the heater wont turn into the economical fan / heat setting, I run mine on just barely turned on. On cold days such as in the snow on the North Yorks Moors yesterday the heater ran on Full for about 10 / 15 minutes and then turned down to the middle setting for a few minutes and then on to the minimum setting where you cannot hear the heater running you have to feel at the air duct to tell if the fan is running at this setting the power consumption is 8 watt.
My heater is in the double skin under the floor pan so the sensor is in the heater under the floor setting the wall rheostat high it would never turn off so the power consumption would be 34 watts a mighty difference.

It is Always a good idea to run the engine prior to stat up if you use TV's, are a heavy power user or don't move your van for several days as in start up mode the power usage can above 120 watts or 10A depending on the heater condition.

Alf
Click to expand...

I know there is a definate benefit in running a silencer on the inlet hose, but I have not heard of anyone doubling up the silencers? be interested how much difference that makes and their placements. (I have spare silencers so could add some on :) )

Ref temp sensors, most of the controllers had no capability of that, but the 801 model did - and worked very well IF the wiring was correctly modified to use it (many/most installers didn't seem to bother)
 
It may be an unorthodox approach but here is an option for those who are 'spaceally challenged' and have no room for an additional battery but sometimes need the extra capacity....

1) Get a basic relay and switch setup that allows you to electrically connect the leisure and starter batteries when you want to - and disconnect when you want to. For the typical van with an existing split-charger or B2B charger, it would be be very simple to fit and cost would be well under a tenner
2) Get a Jump Starter Pack - such as this one - Car Jump Starter - 600A 16500mAh Power Pack (NOTE: That is just an example. I am not familiar with that specific model and so not recommending it for that reason)

Step 1 would allow you to use a decent amount of extra battery capacity 'locked away' in your starter battery and in many ways going to waste otherwise.
Step 2 would mean you were not left standed should you pull a bit too much.

I wouldn't suggest this approach for any vehicle that is not a good quick and easy starter.

You could also add in Step 3) Replace the Starter Battery with as big a battery as physically possible to maximise the benefit in 1) and reduce the potential to need to use 2)


Like I said, unorthodox maybe as a ongoing solution but if you need a bit of a boost on an unexpectedly cold night or very poor solar harvesting it could be worthwhile, as idling a diesel engine for any significant length of time is not recommended.
 
Last edited:
hairydog said:
Not true at all. Not even nearly true.
You can still buy gas heaters that is no power at all, but with a standard Truma combi, we can run the heating 24 hours a day for several days at a time without starting the engine or solar panel input.
The Truma takes around 1A on average (probably less when the thermostat is turned down at bedtime), so you don't need a lot of battery power to sustain it for one night.
Click to expand...

I was referring to carols heater not gas heating.
 
I do have an Eber control that has on/off switch and a rheostat but the is not connected to anything and I thought it may have been intended for the immersion that isn’t wired up?

My Eber has another controller with led display, on or off button (green light when on), arrow up button to increase set temperature, arrow down button to decrease set temperature and final button (blue light) is for turning on a fan which I assumed was for cooling when is off. I thought this controller was maybe an upgrade from rotary dial, is that not so? This is on an Eber D4
 
Nabsim said:
I do have an Eber control that has on/off switch and a rheostat but the is not connected to anything and I thought it may have been intended for the immersion that isn’t wired up?

My Eber has another controller with led display, on or off button (green light when on), arrow up button to increase set temperature, arrow down button to decrease set temperature and final button (blue light) is for turning on a fan which I assumed was for cooling when is off. I thought this controller was maybe an upgrade from rotary dial, is that not so? This is on an Eber D4
Click to expand...
The second controller to me sounds like the 801 Model. Probably the most straightforward and best Eberspacher controller (IMO).
Does it look like the right hand controller on this page? Controllers 1
 
Ok, everyone ... after a good drive home the leisure battery was at 12.9 and the heater kicked in straight away. Should I still replace battery or is that a good sign? Apologies for my ignorance. I'm so grateful for all your replies and suggestions:)
 
carol said:
Ok, everyone ... after a good drive home the leisure battery was at 12.9 and the heater kicked in straight away. Should I still replace battery or is that a good sign? Apologies for my ignorance. I'm so grateful for all your replies and suggestions:)
Click to expand...
check it after a few hours rest .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who viewed this discussion (Total:0)

Back
Top