Dometic fridge PCB

BGT180

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Have an AES RM 7505 fridge with a fault on gas. Igniter no longer working but works on test when extracted. Power ok to igniter but drops when on load. Power to board ok so loss of 12v power on board. Anyone had this and know of a replacement board? Understand Dometic no longer make the board
 
Sadly I came unstuck with this one on a friend's Laika. Appuljack used to repair them, but sadly have pulled away on this so I recon other than finding a second-hand one, you may be stuck too if in the UK (although happy to be proved otherwise). I have heard of these units being repaired over the pond, but wouldn't know where to start looking.
In the end, we fitted a replacement fridge unit, but my friend has done away with the Auto function, just in case any issues arise in the future.
 
I have a Dometic 7 series fridge/freezer but it also has a manual 3 position + off switch. Mine stopped moving to gas when the ignition was turned off and I blamed the PCB. In my case all I had to do was manually turn it to gas. About one time in ten, the fridge WILL switch to gas automatically.

It should be possible to remove the AES function and fit a manual system, the wiring is not that complex.
 
Schematic available.
Local electronics repair centre could probably sort it out for you
Dometic_RM7505_Manual_page_0011_bg.png
 
Thanks Martin, have the schematic and manual. Will look at the manual switch option as well as board.
 
Long shot but google a fella that trades as arcbiz he did a lot of work for me on carvers often repairing circuit boards he is a character sounds gruff at first then you can’t shut him up ....5 years sine I was involved the business is in Nottingham send the pub by post it is returned by post ,,,a plea to his kinder side may well help you out or knows a man that can
 
There is a time delay when switching but doesn’t affect this issue. For interest, Dometic suggest replacement fridge is the RMD10.5T at £2165.75!!! Thetford have a similar at £1219
 
Seems a shame to have to replace it for the sake of a pcb component costing just a few pounds.
There is a fair bit of diagnostic stuff online but little for the 7 series fridges. Will the unit work on gas if you switch it over manually
 
I use a firm in Workington to repair all my faulty modules at work.try googling q.e.r. They repair most circuit boards.
 
Seems a shame to have to replace it for the sake of a pcb component costing just a few pounds.
There is a fair bit of diagnostic stuff online but little for the 7 series fridges. Will the unit work on gas if you switch it over manually
Doesn’t have a manual switch. Would require rewriting and adding a switch. Additional problem I hadn’t mentioned was then 12v element Is drawing about 20A and not 14A when driving so possible other issues with pcb.
 
That's not a circuit diagram, it's just a functional block diagram that tells you nothing about how the PCB works.

As said a competent fixer upper might be able to take a look and try replacing some burned out components or obviously blown capacitors for a few quid to get it going again.

Had to do that for a brother with a humungous domestic American style fridge freezer, icemaker, you name it, all the works. Made by an Italian manufacturer. Conked out just outside the warranty.

Notorious for bad PCBs and components, plenty of on-line stuff about regular problems. Anyway I fixed it for him (and improved a few things), took about a day altogether, and it's been running perfectly for five more years

Sorry, no help whatsoever. My fridge just runs on gas, static and in motion, then when I have hookup a manual switch to turn the heating element on instead. Actually it has two separate electrical switches and two thermostats so I could leave everything turned on, mains, 12V, gas, and let it look after itself, no AES complexity. There is nothing to it, other than the igniter, which is very simple. I like it that way.
 
There you go ... we have a member with the skills to repair it. :giggle:

What a great forum this is.
 
Nope, not really, just did some research and discovered that my brother's Italian made big fridge had a notoriously bad PCB, and plenty of other people had already investigated and a few were even selling a kit of better parts to replace most of the dodgy stuff.

I think he was quoted £500 or so to basically just swap in the same again, ready to go the same way, sooner or later. A ten minute job for something that looked like having a component cost of maybe £20, that would be for good ones.

Which, being still quite handy with a soldering iron, and it fortunately being altogether rather simple, through hole leaded stuff, which I sourced decent quality bits for not much from RS for a few £, I did for him. And it's still going. Though he did nearly lose the contents of the freezer except that a neighbour had space for it in theirs.

Frankly turning a fridge compressor on and off, or another for the freezer, is not rocket science. Neither is running a gas absorption one, with a couple of elements for 12 V and mains, just a little circuit board to spark up the ignition and do so again if it blows out. Shouldn't even do that in a proper install.
 
This may help

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