Chinese Diesel Heater Review

QFour

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Found this on YouTube .. For anyone looking for a Diesel Heater it's not a bad review. Guy has unboxed one and put it through its paces in his workshop. Certainly looks easy to set up and get going. Cost about £120. Enjoy

[video=youtube;9YthaCqkMOs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YthaCqkMOs[/video]
 
Was there not a million page thread on here about a full test.

Just found it but this one seemed like it was just nice and straight forward. He has even done a gas analysis. All up and running on a workbench. At least you can see what is required. Also tests how noisy it is with a decibel meter. All usefully information.
 
Just found it but this one seemed like it was just nice and straight forward. He has even done a gas analysis. All up and running on a workbench. At least you can see what is required. Also tests how noisy it is with a decibel meter. All usefully information.
I watched that video a bit before and I agree it definately added some info that you don't usually see on reviews with the guys test gear.
 
As above.... Installing too bigger unit is a mistake as it won't reach optimum running conditions... And thus be prone to coking up AND using more power as it runs through its initialisation run (the point when they use most power)
Our Eber d2 pulls close to 8 amps on its start up run dropping back to around 1 amp on maintainance mode...

Fuel consumption wise around .25 a litre IF its on max (no chance I could sit with it on max in the transit Jumbo on max for any great period of time... Far too warm.

For what it's worth,
I WILL be fitting another d2 in the Swift ASAP as it will be cheaper/less pfaff to have running than the carver gas fire that's currently fitted.
 
Really interesting. I watched all three videos, including the one where he takes it to bits.

Clearly, the drawbacks are the noise and the power consumption, particularly at startup. You'd want to install a small one so it won't keep having to switch off and on, with the power overhead of the glowplug. But certainly worth considering if you need heat and don't have gas.

If it really uses half a litre to one litre per hour for 1.5 to 2kw, it doesn't seem specially efficient. A litre of diesel should give 10KWh of heat.

I'd expect better than 30% efficiency. Perhaps I misremember what he said it consumes (it is in the second video of the series).

Are there any cheap chinese knock-offs of the Truma 2600 LPG equivalent?
I watched the video but can't remember all the details but .....

Noise ... he had EVERYTHING in the workshop, so the noise check was not accurate. In practice, if you needed a heater you would have windows and doors closed, and you would have any exhaust and combustion inlet outside - so the noise would be a lot lower than his tests.
I find the noise from my heater perfectly acceptable. I have been told it is no more intrusive than a Truma (IIRC)

Fuel Consumption... if it is the video I am thinking off, he had his fuel in a little blue bowl? if that is the case, he couldn't really check the consumption. I HAVE checked the fuel consumption and I found the consumption to be between 0.125L and 0.25L per hour when running Kerosene depending on heat output.

Power Consumption... I can't recall his figures, but my figures would say the power consumption is within expected and reasonable limits. Upto 9A when starting up (goes to the glowpin) lasting around 5 minutes; followed by around 1A in run mode; then upto around 9A (maybe less. can't recall exactly) for around 2-3 minutes on the cooldown mode when turning off.

You don't have turn the heater off when it is up to the temp you need, you can turn the fuel pump down to the minimum as an option - depending if you think you will be upping the temp again. choice becomes a matter of experience of the heater in your own van. (for example, I have lots of single-glazed windows so I loose heat quicker than many motorhomes so I might think I need to put the heater on again soon - so maybe I just turn it down instead of off, as a 'maintanance mode' - and that is exactly what I do)
 
misterrice and I replied around the same time and his Eber and my Eber ripoff would seem to correlate on the info, so I would say our figures are pretty typical and expected :)
 
My memory is a bit off :(

Startup time was 15 minutes from cold (a restart is around 5 minutes);
Power in runtime was tested at 1.5A
Cooldown was just 4A for around 2 minutes.
This is my charted data

Diesel Power Test
by David, on Flickr

so for around 3 Hours 15 minutes of running, used under 7Ah of power

As far as fuel use goes, I marked the tank level at the start of the test and the end of the test
Fuel Tank by David, on Flickr

Then transfered marks to an identical tank and used a measuring jug to check precisely how much liquid is between the two marks. (because of the tank moulding it is not possible to just take the tank dimensions to measure it - doing that would significantly give an over-consumption value)
Fuel use (transferred) by David, on Flickr
 
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We were thinking about getting one possibly an Eber d2 but if we do we want to run it into the existing ducts that are around the van as standard from the combi boiler system that we have in the van already. So the heat should spread out as if we were running gas heater. Has anyone done this?
 
We were thinking about getting one possibly an Eber d2 but if we do we want to run it into the existing ducts that are around the van as standard from the combi boiler system that we have in the van already. So the heat should spread out as if we were running gas heater. Has anyone done this?

The ducting idea seems very sensible. I am sure Eberspacher make a 1 into 2 adapter to have dual outlets and could be used to make the reverse - two heaters to a single venting system - to feed into the existing ductworkI would think?
 
I think I would also fit a butterfly valve into the ducting to stop hot air been blown backwards into the existing heater, if adding to a existing system. But then you would have to remember to open/close the butterfly valve depending on which system you were going to run.
 
I think I would also fit a butterfly valve into the ducting to stop hot air been blown backwards into the existing heater, if adding to a existing system. But then you would have to remember to open/close the butterfly valve depending on which system you were going to run.

Not sure it'll make a great difference for us....
Warm air blows out of vents OR is issued via convection via carver gas fire...

All way round heat will be directed into living space
 
Not sure it'll make a great difference for us....
Warm air blows out of vents OR is issued via convection via carver gas fire...

All way round heat will be directed into living space

Whatever suits your system best. Just a suggestion.
 
Whatever suits your system best. Just a suggestion.

Appreciated as always....

My thinking was that any heat that migrated into the carver matrix will end up in the van anyways via convection as per having the gas fire on without the blown air....

Could be completely wrong though (as usual lol)
 
The real plus using a heater that uses convection is the zero power usage.

I only use the blown air option on the extremely rare occasions that I am on hook up.
 
The real plus using a heater that uses convection is the zero power usage.

I only use the blown air option on the extremely rare occasions that I am on hook up.
When blown air has been fitted, is using the cooker or hob not an option?
No 12v drain is a big plus. Graham
 
Not a good idea ...

The heaters are room sealed so all the combustion products are vented externally through the flue.

Using the cooker will potentially produce carbon monoxide, but will definitely produce water vapour which will condense somewhere inside the vehicle. Carbon dioxide is also produced which isn't good for you either ...
 
iv got two of these a 2kw fitted in my motor home
works very good
and a 5kw fitted in my house and nice and hot
they use little fuel and run good
no trouble with any
 

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