Changing flojet water pump, is it a DIY thing ?

[guerdeval]

So my pump has been noisy for some time (think jackhammer) and has recently started to NOT switch itself off after running the tap so I’ve found it under a bed and boy has it been installed well, the insulation cann’t be removed so my question is, can a total incompetent change it for a new one?

 

[TJBi]

I'm not familiar with the Flojet. Can you access fixings and connections without removing the insulation?

Replacing a water pump is not normally difficult with the potential exception of needing to be a contortionist and/or having tools suitable for restricted access. Presumably the insulation could be removed, but perhaps only by surgery.

Out of interest, prior to the jackhammering, did the insulation effectively eliminate the sound of the water pump?

 

[guerdeval]

I'm not familiar with the Flojet. Can you access fixings and connections without removing the insulation?

Replacing a water pump is not normally difficult with the potential exception of needing to be a contortionist and/or having tools suitable for restricted access. Presumably the insulation could be removed, but perhaps only by surgery.

Out of interest, prior to the jackhammering, did the insulation effectively eliminate the sound of the water pump?

No it was getting pretty noisy despite the insulation, from what I’ve read on the web it’s pretty much ‘plug and play so if I slacken off all the pipe work which passes ‘through’ the insulation I’ve read that it’s a matter of the blue clips popping off and back on the new one, just hoping someone had done a similar task , thanks for replying.

 

[merl]

Some detailed close up images of the connections wouldn't go a miss

 

[guerdeval]

The pipes go through the sides and insulation so I was thinking if I loosened the retaining clips on the floor I might be able to unclip the pipe from the pump inside the box, haven’t seen where the electric goes yet. I’ve read that you just use the blue clips to release the pipes

 

[guerdeval]

Some detailed close up images of the connections wouldn't go a miss

Some detailed close up images of the connections wouldn't go a miss

This is the new pump off EBay ,expensive at £120 when a 30 lpm one is £65

 

[Canalsman]

Make sure you replace like-for-like.

Don't be tempted to use a higher pressure pump. This may cause plumbing leaks elsewhere...

 

[guerdeval]

Make sure you replace like-for-like.

Don't be tempted to use a higher pressure pump. This may cause plumbing leaks elsewhere...

Thanks, this one is 50 lim I was thinking of lowering to a 30 lpm and save £60 !

 

[Rong]

With our sure flow pump I have found when the pump has got a bit noisy sometimes it’s the screws fixing it to the bulkhead that have come loose.

 

[merl]

The pipework outside looks like plain old 12mm push fit so using a different/cheaper pump and altering the pipework slightly if needed wouldn't be particularly hard.

 

[Rumour]

"can a total incompetent change it for a new one?"

I could, but I am not driving all that way!

 

[Lefty]

So my pump has been noisy for some time (think jackhammer) and has recently started to NOT switch itself off after running the tap so I’ve found it under a bed and boy has it been installed well, the insulation cann’t be removed so my question is, can a total incompetent change it for a new one?View attachment 136868

Try sliding the top insulation out, put a hacksaw blade or sharp knife to separate any glue used then do the same with the sides and lift over the pipes and out. Then the dog can see the rabbit!

 

[guerdeval]

Try sliding the top insulation out, put a hacksaw blade or sharp knife to separate any glue used then do the same with the sides and lift over the pipes and out. Then the dog can see the rabbit!

Good idea but they went to the trouble of making a hole through the insulation and the plywood so it doesn’t come off until i remove the pipes same goes for the electric feed, I’ve a new one coming so I think I can just mirror the removal when everything has been loosened off,

 

[guerdeval]

So I’m all prepared for the new pump arrival,drained down etc, removed the 4 biggest screws I’ve ever seen holding it onto the back wall so my question is, the screws were really big and tight so therefore not flexible despite passing through the insulation, shouldn’t these things be on a type of shock absorber to reduce the vibration and noise?, any suggestions before I fit it?

 

[merl]

You usually screw through rubber grommets mounted into the chassis, a large washer on the screw and leave the grommets un squished it lets the pump float somewhat. Probably best to wait till you've got the pump and see what they include.

 

[Robmac]

You usually screw through rubber grommets mounted into the chassis, a large washer on the screw and leave the grommets un squished it lets the pump float somewhat. Probably best to wait till you've got the pump and see what they include.

I remember we discussed Well Nuts for this purpose Merl - do you reckon they would work? They seem to be holding my awning rail firmly, but of course that is also sikaflexed.

 

[merl]

I remember we discussed Well Nuts for this purpose Merl - do you reckon they would work? They seem to be holding my awning rail firmly, but of course that is also sikaflexed.

Those squishy rubber hobbies left quite slack would be quieter than ordinary screws for sure Rob. With domestic shower pumps nothing beats a piece of that flat green underlay between pump and floor boards , Something I've threatened many times with our Sureflo is a square of underlay with a piece of ply stuck to both sides making a sandwich., screw the rear sandwich to the wall and screw the pump to the front and the pump is now completely isolated from the van walls. Just got to consider noise from the pipe and fittings close to the pump if they are touching or fixed to the van.