Cameron McNeish on Mull

Interesting and walk down memory lane for me from Cameron, especially Salen campsite. Site land use to belong to an old dive acquaintance, Richard. The Steptoe yard next to site, I guess still belongs to R, how do I know, me and my dive bud we gave R the the yellow caged, Dunlop breathing air compressor to R, we acquired two, made good one from the two which we kept for blowing our own tanks, with the yellow caged remains going to R, foc. I cant believe it is still in same condition as it was 20+ year ago. Trailer right of car is my work too, although steelwork replaced with what looks like scaffold planks?

The building with H chimney, originally one off, two bunk houses for divers. Structure with scaffold to the left, was the other bunkhouse. No progress with that since my last trip up there, many moons ago. To right of pier > https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Salen,+Isle+of+Mull+PA72+6JB/@56.523354,-5.9394113,153a,35y,45t/data=!3m1!1e3!4m7!3m6!1s0x488bef4eb93bc485:0x3dbf13c2c07394eb!8m2!3d56.51658!4d-5.946121!10e5!16s/m/047b9m_?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MTAwMS4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw==

This was R's original self build house, you wiped your feet when you left the house.....lol. House roof was covered with Welsh slate, with each slate approx the size of a 2x2 slab, salvaged from the 1800's slate wreck north of Lochaline on the Morven shore. Those slates were going nowhere in a storm!


R, also owned Salen pier, new one is more or less a replica of the original pier, which R struggled to keep in good nick, the shed structure collapsed, and the pier was pretty much dilapidated and unsafe. If my memory serves me well, house and pier were sold, and transformed to what is there now. I believe the pier is now used for loading lumber onto vessels. 2022 street view shows R in residence at his hovel, which has not improved at all, in 25+ years. The most photographed beached fishing boats in UK and EU, if not the world, belong to R, there use to be three there, there were others, 2 I have dived!!

An eccentric lovely guy from Northern Ireland, R bought the salvage rights for the SS Aurania https://lostinwatersdeep.co.uk/ss-aurania.html
his house at the pier was adorned with much non-ferrous artifacts from his wreck.
 
I do like Mull.
Me too, but as you know Cal it was a place where some attempted to make us unwelcome a few years ago. I even had to reply to an article on MMM where the writer stated that you could not WC on Mull. He then replied accusing me of being a freeloader well I firmly replied and that was that. But Mull thanks to the efforts of some locals who are also Motorhome owners have sorted things out. I have never had an issue WC in Mull, but there are more options and facilities now than there was in the past. If you don’t want to WC there are Aires and campsites all over the island that will accommodate you. My personal favourite being Fidden Farm which was covered in Cameron’s video. But Mull is a stunning island, but some of the roads can be challenging particularly with a larger motorhome. It’s mostly single track roads, which don’t really pose much of a problem, but the single track road from Salen to two miles south of Tobermory can be challenging due to much higher volumes of traffic including buses and delivery vehicles. If anyone goes there look for Loch Ba the scenery there is breathtaking. Here some shots I took years ago, and heading up Ben More via Beinn Fhadda looking over towards Ulva. On the last shot you can see the ridge on Beinn Fhadda, I actually prefer Beinn Fhadda to the islands Munro Ben More.
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I found the reply which was published on MMM regarding Nigel Baxter’s article when he who wrote on an article that WC was not allowed on Mull.


I have been wild camping on the island of Mull for over 40 years, I did so in a tent until 2016 when I got my first Motorhome. During that time I have never had any issues with anyone on the island, and my respect for the vast majority of people who live on the island, and it’s environment is not up for debate by mr Baxter, who clearly has issues with responsible wild camping on Mull.
His reference to the land reform act of Scotland is completely inappropriate, the act has nothing to do with wild camping in a motorhome. This was highlighted when myself and others fought and won the right to use carparks within Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, (where wild camping is banned from April to October)when we were initially informed that from April to October this would be banned. This resulted in people who had been fined being reimbursed. Quoting the land reform act in relation to wild camping in a Motorhome is nothing more than a red herring, and shows ignorance of the facts.
As for quoting what some committee from the island who don’t represent the over four thousand who live there is completely misleading. The vast majority who live on Mull have no issues with responsible considerate wild camping.
Mr Baxter’s reference to the size of mull is puzzling. Mull is a large island with over two hundred miles of roads. Let’s compare it to the island of Arran, an island you covered in Junes copy. Where the author enjoyed wild camping on the west side of the island. Arran has only 85 miles of roads, has roughly the same population as Mull, and normally has as many motorhomes on it than Mull. I could quote the Isle of Bute which is one sixth the size of mull again with normally as many motorhomes as Mull. The only island were its mandatory to book a Croft before arriving is Tiree, something that has my full support.
As for contributing towards the local economy, I was not aware when I purchased my Motorhome that I was taking on this moral responsibility. However I have stayed on every campsite on the island several times over the years, and have enjoyed meals and drinks in local restaurants and bars, but I don’t regard this as supporting the local economy, simply availing myself of the facilities available.
Mr Baxter is obviously a fair weather camper, because from October to April all of the campsites on Mull are closed. On my last visit to Mull in November 2023 I wild camped with no issues for a week. If what Mr Baxter is stating is we should only visit Mull during the warmer months, when the campsites are open, then he really is well off the mark.
As for turning Mull into a wild camping paradise, well prey tell what’s wrong with this.
Mull is and has for many years been a wild camping paradise, but it seems that Mr Baxter wishes to bring this to an end.
This magazine is read primarily by readers who own various versions of camping vehicles, and I would reckon that the vast majority wild camp in them at least occasionally.
If Mull was ever reduced to only using campsites from April to October, I would have no interest in visiting it. God forbid what Mr Baxter supports ever comes to fruition, and we are free to enjoy one of Scotland most wonderful islands.
Finally I wish to repeat what I stated in my previous correspondence, Mull has not banned wild camping, it is not as Mr Baxter stated on here prohibited, and I hope that each and everyone who visits this large island does so responsibly, with respect for its inhabitants and it’s environment.
 
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We always go Lochaline and Corran ferry as it’s a short crossing and a nice drive.
Corran/Lochaline route is my fave. Had many a good night at the wee social club while staying a long weekend at the dive centre. I wonder if club is still open?
 
It's been about 25 years since we last visited Mull in our van, good to hear that we might be welcomed again if returning.
 
It's been about 25 years since we last visited Mull in our van, good to hear that we might be welcomed again if returning.
I never felt unwelcome, but a few started rumours that you could not get on the ferry without a campsite booking, which was utter garbage. When I read the article in MMM I was angry, hence why I replied to this rubbish. There is a tiny minority on the island who would blame us for the weather, who exaggerated problems with vans, but they were only a tiny minority. The vast majority of islanders either don’t care, or welcome us.
 
Mull will be a different place this weekend, with the annual rally (I will be servicing as usual).
I have never had a problem with WC on Mull - the locals are generally fine (couldnt care less!) - its the White settlers that cause the aggro!!

That was what put me off Mull. I only went once. About 20 years ago. We went for a week or so in the car and just used a few hotels. All the hoteliers were English. One could have given Basil Fawlty a run for his money but nowhere near as funny and another in Tobermory was most put out when we came back to the hotel bar after an Indian and wanted drinks around 10:20pm. I could even here her tutting and mumbling to herself as she reluctantly poured our drinks and it wasn't a cheap hotel either. That was pretty much our experience everywhere on Mull. Never went back. Much prefer Arran.
 
That was what put me off Mull. I only went once. About 20 years ago. We went for a week or so in the car and just used a few hotels. All the hoteliers were English. One could have given Basil Fawlty a run for his money but nowhere near as funny and another in Tobermory was most put out when we came back to the hotel bar after an Indian and wanted drinks around 10:20pm. I could even hear her tutting and mumbling to herself as she reluctantly poured our drinks and it wasn't a cheap hotel either. That was pretty much our experience everywhere on Mull. Never went back. Much prefer Arran.
I know how much you enjoy Arran but Mull should be on your list in the van.
 
That was what put me off Mull. I only went once. About 20 years ago. We went for a week or so in the car and just used a few hotels. All the hoteliers were English. One could have given Basil Fawlty a run for his money but nowhere near as funny and another in Tobermory was most put out when we came back to the hotel bar after an Indian and wanted drinks around 10:20pm. I could even here her tutting and mumbling to herself as she reluctantly poured our drinks and it wasn't a cheap hotel either. That was pretty much our experience everywhere on Mull. Never went back. Much prefer Arran.
You are missing a fantastic Island Barry.
Cale is right.
Mull is right up there on places to visit in Scotland.
There are idiots everywhere, even on Arran.
We have had horns blasted at us on Arran, and told by a shop owner that we should not be allowed on the island with our vans, unless we go to campsites.
 
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Maybe we would feel differently after twenty years but we did stay a week or so. It was nice but I just wasn't feeling it. I've often looked at the POI and other sites etc for wild spots on Mull and last time I looked there weren't that many that appealed or compared to what Arran had.
 
Maybe we would feel differently after twenty years but we did stay a week or so. It was nice but I just wasn't feeling it. I've often looked at the POI and other sites etc for wild spots on Mull and last time I looked there weren't that many that appealed or compared to what Arran had.
If you do go to Mull take a boat trip to Staffa Barry and see Fingles Cave.
It’s not cheap but it’s worth every penny to witness something so special which nature has created. I used to wonder why it inspired so many poets, writers and Felix Mendelssohn who wrote the Hebridean overture after seeing it. But after seeing it myself I fully understood why these great men were so inspired by it.


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If you do go to Mull take a boat trip to Staffa Barry and see Fingles Cave.
It’s not cheap but it’s worth every penny to witness something so special which nature has created. I used to wonder why it inspired so many poets, writers and Felix Mendelssohn who wrote the Hebridean overture after seeing it. But after seeing it myself I fully understood why these great men were so inspired by it.


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Can you Kayak to it? :D
 
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