Body repairs

[888dee]

My problem:

other side is similar but not as bad, has been caused by water getting in between the side and the plastic wheel arch and subsequent de-lamination above the wheels.

now I have obtained a sheet of alu (from a friendly fridge cabinet maker ) which has a patterned/hammered finish.

My plan was, once repaired/made good the wheel arches to cut a piece the same shape as the wheel opening and bond it to the side...

Sikaflex to bond would be the plan but unsure how to finish the edges and whether or not I should paint the panels the same colour as the body or laquer them the match the lower panels?

thoughts please on all aspects of this (crazy?) plan

 

[888dee]

Sorry, should have made that clearer,

plan was to cut a plate from the sheet and stick it on top of the existing alu skin to cover the damaged section, as per the pic

 

[Deleted member 207]

Cutting into aluminium sheet on the vehicle is potentially not an easy thing to do - even with a nibbler there will be structures behind the aluminium that stops a smooth continous cut. Using a jigsaw with a short blade is possible but again the risk is that you cut a support strate.

I think I'd be looking for the cause of the water ingress, fixing that, and then use adhesive to re-attach the existing panels after cleaning off all the old adhesive - probably have to access them from the inside of the van by removing panels/cupboards. If the aluminium panels have distorted you might need to pop rivet them to hold them in place before glueing them - use aluminium rivets not stainless steel ones as they will quickly corrode the aluminium. If you have to use pop rivets you can make it look "original" by putting pop rivets at equal spacing down the side of the vehicle.

To stop the same happening again I'd be looking at either putting a good coating of bitumen underseal in the wheel arch or fitting plastic wheel arches if possible to stop water being thrown up from the road surface (my guess at where the problem has started from).

 

[888dee]

I haven't explained this very well have I lol

I wasn't intending on cutting into the existing panel... was going to seal up the wheel arch from below to stop further ingress and then to make it look better, particularly on the NS was going to bond a plate on top of the existing....

 

[jogguk]

I get the idea off what your trying to do, sounds feasable if the damage is not too bad.

The repair to the wheel arch is straight forward (cost a few quid in materials though) After a thorough clean up use some rough sandpaper or a flapwheel in a drill to roughen up the plasic liner and the reverse side of the ajoining areas of the side skirt. Don't worry about about any gaps, but some dollops of silkaflex my help hold things together till the next stage

Next stage:
Buy some glassfibre mat and resin and cover all the plastic liner and down onto the side skirt area. Maybe double up on areas that could flex. The idea is to create a totally sealed one piece waterproof moulding.

How bad is the delamination? and can you get to the affected area from inside the M/H? And what kind of insulation is in the wall?

It is not too bad and assuming the insulation is polystyrene or similar and you can get to the inside (if not then holes in outer skin)

Drill a few 20 or 25mm holes in inside wall where the delamination is. Poke a bit of bent wire in and scrape/ hook out as much insulation material as possible. Inject into the holes plenty of handy foam, repeat as necessary till it feels firm.

Still thinking about the aluminium for a bit

John

 

[888dee]

John,

I get where you're coming from, getting to the inside is not going to be easy, Toilet/fresh tank one side (the worst side as it happens) and kitchen/wardrobe on the other... but still do-able and the more I think about it not actually that bad, hmmmm....

de-lam ain't that bad, extends about 4-5 inches in an arc above the arches but as I'm sure you can understand I don't want it getting any worse.

main problem I see is making the exterior look "right", skin will need covered due to some corrosion and no way to match the finish, hence the alu sheet, but I don't want it to look like a bodge...

 

[bigtrev8xl]

It seems a sensible thing to do. I'd do it that way.

Big Trev

 

[Deleted member 207]

John,

I get where you're coming from, getting to the inside is not going to be easy, Toilet/fresh tank one side (the worst side as it happens) and kitchen/wardrobe on the other... but still do-able and the more I think about it not actually that bad, hmmmm....

de-lam ain't that bad, extends about 4-5 inches in an arc above the arches but as I'm sure you can understand I don't want it getting any worse.

main problem I see is making the exterior look "right", skin will need covered due to some corrosion and no way to match the finish, hence the alu sheet, but I don't want it to look like a bodge...

I'd leave the external alone if at all possible, plating a sheet over the existing panel will not look right - it'll look as though you've had wheel arch damage from a thrown tyre. Plus unless you completely bond the two surfaces you will end up the potential for corrosion between the layers.

There are some good thermal reflective paints that can be applied over almost anything - roller application so they are easy DIY, might be the way to go to fix the cosmetics.

This maybe too late - a pair of plastic wheel arches for a tandem axle trailer may do the job - depends on space and ease of fitment.

 

[888dee]

this is my concern, I'm worried anything I do will look like a bodge...

 

[The Grand Wanderer]

Hi 888Dee,
Firstly let me express my heartfelt sympathy for your problem.
Secondly you do not say what kind of van you have nor it's age.
Sometimes the better manufacturers like Hymer ect. will undertake repairs at minimal costs, as their reputation is at stake.
I fear that water has been getting in for a long time and it will require you to find and completely seal the leaks, before allowing your van to dry out, treat for rot in the wooden frame before finally repairing the outer skin. It is possible to weld aluminium these days and a good welder could seem weld in a new patch then cover the seem with a plactic strip.
Which ever way you look at it, this is not an easy repair to undertake as a DIY project and will be very time consuming.
Your experience teaches me one major lesson and that is to make sure that a full damp check is carried out every six months.
Regards,
Wanderer

 

[888dee]

sorry should have said, it's a '92 Frankia so UK dealer back-up is a little thin on the ground

and yes, think you're right it has been breeding for some time, there appears to be a poorly protected seem between the side wall and the plastic arch liner which has let water creep up the wall from the inside.

and primarily because I'm a tight git but also because I don't understand "can't" or "difficult" I will repair this myself

 

[jogguk]

sorry should have said, it's a '92 Frankia so UK dealer back-up is a little thin on the ground

and yes, think you're right it has been breeding for some time, there appears to be a poorly protected seem between the side wall and the plastic arch liner which has let water creep up the wall from the inside.

and primarily because I'm a tight git but also because I don't understand "can't" or "difficult" I will repair this myself

Been thinking on the Aluminium patch Idea. It will be difficult to make it look pleasing and not just a quick patch up. Here are my thoughts for what they are worth.

You already have two horizontal seems. One at the plastic skirt and the other half way up.. The proper way would be to bond on over the existing a new piece of ally the height of the original section X the length of the body, and replace the long cover trims to hide the join, as the manufacturers done.

This is impractical. hatches to remove, long lengths of ally, lots of paint etc, etc. What about a strips of ally 9" or so high (or to the bottom of that hatch)
the whole length of the body. Finished on the top with an ally half round cover bead profile. There is a special capping moulding used in coach building that has a bit of a rebate on one edge. Alternatively there is a moulding used a lot on older American M/H's and caravans a sort of "C" section which is screwed on then a coloured plastic insert pressed in to hide the screws.

A lot of new Truck /van luton type bodies use extensively a very strong 3M double sided tape to fix the Filon (?) of whatever it is called translucent roof panels to the ally "U" shaped ribs and also the ally side walls. The same stuff is used to bond roadside signs to "U" channel ribs (have a look at modern road signs no rivets!)

Because of the size of your alloy sheet there will be a few vertical joints, again modern coach building use a flexible rubber stuff applied with a caulk gun which is not silicone (look at the side panel joints on a Sprinter van)


HTH
John

 

[888dee]

That's terrific John, certainly given me an idea how to go about this without it looking daft

 

[888dee]

had a quick look at the van I think this could be a go-er john

with regard to finishing, wonder if I was to go for a contrasting colour instead of the off white, probably red to match the rest of the decals, what you think?

 

[jogguk]

had a quick look at the van I think this could be a go-er john

with regard to finishing, wonder if I was to go for a contrasting colour instead of the off white, probably red to match the rest of the decals, what you think?

Probably right. May include the bottom skirt section in the same colour too Especially if you can get those "C" section trims I mentioned in a silver anodised aluminium finish with a red insert Try a commercial bodybuilder for info on where to get them.

John