Big problem with camper - sad news, help!

Campervan pics

Hello, this is Neil, Marie's partner in crime. I've uploaded pics of the auld wreck (thinking of naming it 'Maggie' cos its so 'divisive) HERE - see what you make of the problem.
* Remember its:
Nearside front steering rack gaiter split.
Offside front steering rack gaiter split.
Offside (centre of sill inner) vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Centre rear (x member) vehicle structure has unsatisfactory modification, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Rear exhaust system not adequately supported.
Nearside rear (above leaf spring) vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Offside rear (above leaf spring) vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content excessive.
Nearside front (incorrect fit) brake hose stretched (found during steering lock to lock check).
Offside rear (next to shocker) vehicle structure has unsatisfactory modification, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Centre rear vehicle structure has an unsatisfactory modification, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Nearside front vehicle structure has excessive corrosion which adversely affects braking or steering.
Offside front vehicle structure has excessive corrosion which adversely affects braking or steering.
NSF shocker incorrect fit right side fitted to left.
 
The excess carbon monoxide could be the worst to fix, or it might just need a tweak on the carb or injectors. Was it much or a little over the limit? I have found that when a vehicle is borderline it may get squeezed past, but if there is a definite fail on one thing, then they fail every little thing they can.
 
They didn't say how bad emissions were. Guess they focused on the chassis problems.
 
there's no doubt it's a big repair job,but if you,well, your guy, can get a crashed chassis from a scrapper then sections can be cut out and replaced with good bits,and other bits made on the spot
 
Worth a shot to get another chassis?

Hi.

I just looked at your pics of the u-side - and there is some very serious and deep corrosion there - I know some lads who can weld pretty much anything, but that does look bad, and that extensive sections would need replacing, and if those are complex sections then forget it.

I know he's a long way from you (but there must be others all over as the Tranny is everywhere in numbers?) but there's a chap near to me who reckons he breaks about 1 tranny a week, and has just about every part for them (he claims). I dealt with him to get a couple of bits for my LDV (tranny running gear) and he seemed a decent and helpful guy (Rik 01239 832077).

He told me that the SWB transits rust worse than the LWB (though he wasn't certain why, but reckoned they were built in different factories). But you need a chassis cab (or at least a chassis? though the 1980's tranny cabs I've seen have been rotten, so you'd need to check that carefully). The rear spring hangars and chassis sections seem to be where they go badly, and its not an easy fix. But yours is a chassis cab - so different.

I was told that complete engines for my van (non-turbo 2.5Di) don't break so there's loads about for £250-300. Ditto axles & g-boxes. I've seen Tippers that rot the chassis rails pretty badly, but also they are far easier to patch and weld sections to than van bodies - so maybe a getting a better chassis as a transplant isn't impossible? Get a pretty decent one and fix anything thats wrong with it - treat it while its separate to protect it and then drop your body on?

I know I'm making it sound simple (& couldn't do it myself) but there are certainly those that can, if you could source a direct transplant chassis perhaps?

Good luck!
 
I don't think it has a demountable body. It looks from the pictures to have built from the chassis up. I imagine it to be nearly impossible to dismantle it from the top down and rebuild it on another chassis.

It has been mentioned already, put it on ebay with the pictures and the mot failure with no reserve. I think you will be very surprised with the result.

Whoever buys it will know exactly what they are buying and you will be happy guilt free seller.

I see it as your only true solution.

Good luck
 
Just seen the pics

Hi Neily,

From looking at the pics it looks like the chassis is crumbling right through the steel from the inside out, I think a high power welder would blow big holes through that rust, there is no good metal to weld to and if you had a front ender the van could fold in half on you.My last Bedford Dormobile was 1974 and the chassis section was in a upward U shape that was a lot easer to patch put never was,but your turned lower seams have crumbled away so there is no strength and no good meat to weld too.You could grind back and put an inverted u section over it but you may not get back to good base metal to weld to.
Good luck.

Snowbirds.




NeilyG said:
Hello, this is Neil, Marie's partner in crime. I've uploaded pics of the auld wreck (thinking of naming it 'Maggie' cos its so 'divisive) HERE - see what you make of the problem.
* Remember its:
Nearside front steering rack gaiter split.
Offside front steering rack gaiter split.
Offside (centre of sill inner) vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Centre rear (x member) vehicle structure has unsatisfactory modification, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Rear exhaust system not adequately supported.
Nearside rear (above leaf spring) vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Offside rear (above leaf spring) vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content excessive.
Nearside front (incorrect fit) brake hose stretched (found during steering lock to lock check).
Offside rear (next to shocker) vehicle structure has unsatisfactory modification, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Centre rear vehicle structure has an unsatisfactory modification, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Nearside front vehicle structure has excessive corrosion which adversely affects braking or steering.
Offside front vehicle structure has excessive corrosion which adversely affects braking or steering.
NSF shocker incorrect fit right side fitted to left.
Click to expand...
 
We are planning to take it to one of the members tomorrow. He is 90% sure it can be done - fingers crossed. Thanks for all your attention. I know it doesn't look great but the guy seems hopeful.
Will keep you posted, of course.
 
I was told once by an mot tester and also a mechanic to change the engine oil just before you take it for mot as it brings the emissions down I tried this on my vehicle after a fail on emissions and it worked as for the chassis it does look bad on the pictures but I would attempt to go under myself with a hammer tapping the places that have failed to see how far the rot has gone and then decide if you don't think it's that bad it probably wouldn't take long for a good welder it is just ashame that you are so far away as I have changed a body from a motorhome on to another chassis for myself a couple of years ago but a would say that any competent person would beable to do that in about a week or less I really hope you get this sorted I send you all my luck
 
:cry: Hi Marie and Neil what a stinker of a problem. In future take it a month before the MOT is due as it still starts from the same run out date as taking it in on the last day, it gives you a month to play with. Like everyone as pointed out most of the jobs are just that jobs that are easily doable. That rusting chassis is bad and no way can I believe it as got passed the last two years without even one advisory. That has been rotting away for years to be that bad. I would go along with Gazes offer and running over to his mates because even that bad rust can be overcome with a good welder. It might cost a good few bob but at least you only drop it off and pick it up if it can be done without any hassle. Re building it onto another chassis is a lot of work and you still got to buy the running gear.
Hey Neil last week you said only the horn needed work on it :bow: hmmm you wished.
Well I wish you all the best with whatever you decide as I am sure it will all be right in the end :goodluck: ..
.... Tom ....
 
Going by the pictures some of that rust i would say its surface rust, good wirebrush and coat of primer/ underseal should suffice. For the chassis at the front get a donor van with the good bits you need and that part of the chassis, it will mean the engine coming out of your van and axle etc coming off but some of these parts according to mot need replacing. If the van is yourideal vehicle and reliable it would be worth spending time and a bit of money doing her once and for all. Once all underside is sorted ,be sure to give an excellent underseal, won't stop rust but will slow down.

Get under with a wirebrush , hammer, screwdriver and set to work on this rust, see actually how bad it all is. The more work you can do the quicker a welder can work and less cost to you. You mayas suggested get lucky and be able to overplate the chassis but check how much damage is there first. If its not too bad and plenty of good metal to weld to then you can make templates and have 3mm plting cut to shape to fit and weld along the chassis.
 
I had a similar experience with my old campervan two years ago. Massive fail on MOT, mainly welding - despite no advisories previous year. Garage quoted nearly 2K to put it right.

I sold it on e-bay to someone who could do the welding themselves (I actually got £1 more for it than I'd paid two years before when I bought it with a full year's MOT!!)

Good luck whatever you decide to do.
 
Whatever you do don't panic you don't need an answer yesterday.
As said before you can drive an untaxed and non MOT'd vehicle to and from a booked MOT appointment. That can be used to allow movement to and from repairs.
Big question. when is the tax due? Remember a non MOT'd vehicle in itself is punishable by a fine but no penalty points. https://www.gov.uk/highway-code-penalties/penalty-table
I'm not telling you what to do you're a big girl.
Try Googling "Penalty For No MOT" half the world's forums will tell you that you have no insurance etc..... Though no matter what they claim the third parties injured in an accident are insured. The insurance company could try to chase you but if you have nothing, you have nothing.

For the record you don't have an MOT certificate any more. You have a paper record the central computer is the formal record.
 
Oh Marie, can't believe what i'm reading, i'm so sorry for you both, i know how much you love the van, i can't offer you a solution tho, sorry,

Mine is due 12th May, it will be booked in next week, i always go weeks early,

Keep us up to date with what you do, and please please be careful, its failed for a reason ITS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE, cant you get your recovery company to take you where ever?

just one more thing, if you do decide to scarp her, (god forbid), if you have a carver water tank, the parts make good money, just go look on ebay, you will be surprised, i know its not something you want to do, it will be heartbreaking to dismantle such a lovely van, however, you have to be practical, just think how much the scrap value the chassis is worth, probably more than the whole van, my neighbour, he is making a fortune out of scrap cars, thought of doing it myself but knowing my luck the price of scrap would go down as soon as i started lol

anyway lass, good luck with it all, i'm only a phone call away if you need to have a winge, not that i'll listen mind, :raofl:
 
Chin Up!

Firstly you have my sympathies, it's a dilemma cos we get attached to our vehicles and they're hard to let go.

Smaug's solution of seeking an agricultural garage is spot on, they are generally cheaper AND more resourceful, less inclined to the chuck it away and buy new ethos.

I've had some rot box coaches at work to deal with over the years, and the problem is how much you need to strip out to get to something solid to weld to so it needs someone to inspect and give you a price.

As for the other MOT stuff!!!!!!!!!! DO NOT TRUST THIS GARAGE! SF shocker incorrect fit right side fitted to left for starters!!!! Thats a new one on me. I smell a rat!
 
;303570 said:
Hello, this is Neil, Marie's partner in crime. I've uploaded pics of the auld wreck (thinking of naming it 'Maggie' cos its so 'divisive) HERE - see what you make of the problem.
* Remember its:
Nearside front steering rack gaiter split.
Offside front steering rack gaiter split.
Offside (centre of sill inner) vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Centre rear (x member) vehicle structure has unsatisfactory modification, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Rear exhaust system not adequately supported.
Nearside rear (above leaf spring) vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Offside rear (above leaf spring) vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content excessive.
Nearside front (incorrect fit) brake hose stretched (found during steering lock to lock check).
Offside rear (next to shocker) vehicle structure has unsatisfactory modification, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Centre rear vehicle structure has an unsatisfactory modification, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings.
Nearside front vehicle structure has excessive corrosion which adversely affects braking or steering.
Offside front vehicle structure has excessive corrosion which adversely affects braking or steering.
NSF shocker incorrect fit right side fitted to left.
Click to expand...

Hello mariesnowgoose and NeilyG

Try White le Head garage if you don't know where it is PM me. They were the garage that cut the rot out of my Hymer and welded in new metal.

Fred in Beamish Street should be able to get panels/chassis sections to weld over the bad bits. My friend always used gas welding for this type of work not electric. I was on fire duty while he was doing it. Hadrian Body panels make sections I'm sure Fred will have the catalogue.

I am at Maiden Law at present.

John
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As with any other manocoque fibreglass body it will have been fitted to the chassis in one piece (not built up like a traditional coachbuilt) It will therefore be detatchable from the chassis and can be refitted with a little work to a later slightly different design transit chassis cab - I have even seen one fitted to an LDV and so it can be done. Seek advice from Broadland Leisure, who probably will not want the job, they have a lot of experience of putting Romahome shells on newer Citroen C15s (these are NOT demountables). The transfer on a C15 is a more complex job than yours because it involves cutting vans accurately to fit the sides of the Romahome.

Dont give up

Peter
 
Sorry to hear you're having such a hassle, Marie and Neil. I'm not much use with technical advice...soup and scones and woodwork woman, yes, metal nooooo! (Once went out with a welder, after the initial sparks the relationship corroded :)) ...but thinking of you and wishing you the very best with it.

Hilary
 
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