Awning Rail

[Fazerloz]

I just used good old Sika flex and stainless self tappers on mine and all is good.

 

[Robmac]

Mine is like this, i coated the back with silicone and used a marine grade rivets as my van is alloy, so no black magic will happen.View attachment 133104

Same as mine Trev in 3 sections.

 

[Robmac]

I just used good old Sika flex and stainless self tappers on mine and all is good.

My problem is that my roof is a plastic composite (not GRP) and in places it is a double skin so I can't get to the inside of the fittings to put timber in to screw into so rubber Rivnuts seem to be the best way to go, and yes Sikaflex 554 as well. I want to put as little stress as possible on the plastic.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Rob would it be possible to drill a fairly large hole from the inside, and then put a metal tube in the hole, then drill through the tube to outside, put a plate on the inside and bolt through the lot the tube will stop it crushing and the plate will spread the load, the hole in the plate and the roof need to be the same size as the bolt.

 

[Robmac]

Rob would it be possible to drill a fairly large hole from the inside, and then put a metal tube in the hole, then drill through the tube to outside, put a plate on the inside and bolt through the lot the tube will stop it crushing and the plate will spread the load, the hole in the plate and the roof need to be the same size as the bolt.


View attachment 133121

I did think about doing something like that Kev but I don't want to cut any more holes into the inside skin of the van roof really.

I reckon that a combination of the Rivnuts and Sikaflex will be sufficient to hold it but thanks anyway.

 

[saxonborg]

I did think about doing something like that Kev but I don't want to cut any more holes into the inside skin of the van roof really.

I reckon that a combination of the Rivnuts and Sikaflex will be sufficient to hold it but thanks anyway.

To give you an idea of how strong certain grades of Sikaflex can be, we used to Sikaflex a 12” square plate with an eyebolt to the top of a GRP fire engine body, The C of G was over the water tank so there was no access to fit bolts through the plate and body, we never had a failure when lifting the bodies.

 

[Robmac]

To give you an idea of how strong certain grades of Sikaflex can be, we used to Sikaflex a 12” square plate with an eyebolt to the top of a GRP fire engine body, The C of G was over the water tank so there was no access to fit bolts through the plate and body, we never had a failure when lifting the bodies.

Yes I do trust Sikaflex. Putting the Rivnuts in is a bit of a 'belt and braces' thing really plus they will hold the 3 rails flush together whilst the Sikaflex goes off.

Thanks for the info though that's very reassuring.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

I did think about doing something like that Kev but I don't want to cut any more holes into the inside skin of the van roof really.

I reckon that a combination of the Rivnuts and Sikaflex will be sufficient to hold it but thanks anyway.

I see your point, weird it being double-skinned though.

The inner plate wasn't drawn to scale it would need to be about 30x15cm at least I'd think as there would be wind loading to account for.

 

[n brown]

 

[Gasdave]

I am fitting an awning rail (c-type) hopefully tomorrow if the rain has stopped by then. It is for a Fiamma Caravanstore xl which is an awning in a bag weighing roughly 10kg. I intend to stick it using Sikaflex 554 (thanks Bill @Fisherman) but as a belt and braces solution I also intend to put a stainless steel bolt at each end of the 3 sections of C-rail.

My question is, should I try and isolate the bolts from the rail with maybe a plastic washer or similar in order to avoid galvanic corrosion? I have seen these rails fitted before on Youtube where people have not done so but don't know if there were long term effects.

Inserting unprotected steel or S/S bolts into aluminium will result in corrosion, although it may not all be galvanic. The key is, as you say, to try to isolate the two materials from one another. In boating worlds we usually use a jointing compound called Duralac - smear a coating in the drilled hole and around the bolt. This provides a good lasting layer of isolation and avoids the need for other additional "solid" parts. You can search for best price.

Duralac

 

[Robmac]

Inserting unprotected steel or S/S bolts into aluminium will result in corrosion, although it may not all be galvanic. The key is, as you say, to try to isolate the two materials from one another. In boating worlds we usually use a jointing compound called Duralac - smear a coating in the drilled hole and around the bolt. This provides a good lasting layer of isolation and avoids the need for other additional "solid" parts. You can search for best price.

Duralac

Yes I'm a boater too and I have come across Duralac before.