Anyone 'in the know' about wax-oiling?
- Thread starter Wisewoman
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Deleted member 775
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eek beetles i still shudder , once had a rover 213 the one after the triumph acclaim remember them .anyway in it came for mot ,decent enough looking car , failed on corrosion front floor pan seams and both rear cills , few hours work ,so it seemed not that bad ,in the end it ended up so bad it was virtualy scrap , both front floor panels rotten into the a pillar ,both rears almost as bad and the rear cills ,forget them it would have been structurally unsound in my oppinion .
wildebus
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If you go to the Dintrol website, you can find a list of approved garages that will do the full treatment, which is a proper underchassis steam clean, rust treatment as required, then injection of cavities and full dinitrol undersealing.
This will cost probably at least twice as much as your most expensive quote, but it is a once-done, forget it type of job, unlike the waxoyl and similar (old engine oil, etc) options, which are a messy, do it every year, job, so I know what I would go for personally
In fact, I very nearly did this to my T4 Camper Conversion last year, but decided against as I changed to my T5 instead and wouldn't have recooped the outlay in resale value.
There is also another product which is a decent DIY as well as Pro product - Tetroseal.
I know people who went for Tetroseal (plus Shultz on the arches) on their brand new RAV4s, as the underseal protection of new cars is still pretty poor, especially ones built in Japan, and the underneath of their cars still look brand new years later. It really is a worthwhile investment IMO, but whichever you go for, dealing with and treating any rust first is key, otherwise a pointless excercise.
For a standard T4, there are no splash guards or suchlike parts to remove underneath in order to apply underseal.
There will be some bagging up of components I would think (brake discs & calipers, handbrake cable, etc) to protect them which will be standard for all vehicles. You probably have an under-engine belly pan that might need removing - that takes just 5 minutes when up on a ramp, so don't be fooled by them saying they will have to take lots of covers off (the later T5 is covered by plastix shields and heatsinks underneath and is a different story!)
Being a "Proper" camper conversion from the start, it IS possible you have extra underchassis equipment such as propane tank and water tanks which could complicate matters a bit. I would imagine they would work around fittimgs like those rather then try and remove.
This will cost probably at least twice as much as your most expensive quote, but it is a once-done, forget it type of job, unlike the waxoyl and similar (old engine oil, etc) options, which are a messy, do it every year, job, so I know what I would go for personally
In fact, I very nearly did this to my T4 Camper Conversion last year, but decided against as I changed to my T5 instead and wouldn't have recooped the outlay in resale value.
There is also another product which is a decent DIY as well as Pro product - Tetroseal.
I know people who went for Tetroseal (plus Shultz on the arches) on their brand new RAV4s, as the underseal protection of new cars is still pretty poor, especially ones built in Japan, and the underneath of their cars still look brand new years later. It really is a worthwhile investment IMO, but whichever you go for, dealing with and treating any rust first is key, otherwise a pointless excercise.
For a standard T4, there are no splash guards or suchlike parts to remove underneath in order to apply underseal.
There will be some bagging up of components I would think (brake discs & calipers, handbrake cable, etc) to protect them which will be standard for all vehicles. You probably have an under-engine belly pan that might need removing - that takes just 5 minutes when up on a ramp, so don't be fooled by them saying they will have to take lots of covers off (the later T5 is covered by plastix shields and heatsinks underneath and is a different story!)
Being a "Proper" camper conversion from the start, it IS possible you have extra underchassis equipment such as propane tank and water tanks which could complicate matters a bit. I would imagine they would work around fittimgs like those rather then try and remove.
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the tetroseal are good products in my opinion. but instead of schultz i would use stonechip
its dearer but i dont know if it will stop rust already there.
Deleted member 775
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usualy find the stone chip just covers rust brilliantly ,leaves it free to do its worst ,unseen underneath untill the stone chip comes away with what used to be steel once upon a time.
hextal
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Yeah. My, albeit limited, experience is just that, it's fantastic at hiding rust but not much cop at stopping rust.
gypo
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I used it on my old VW, the problem is if it comes away from the body you dont know whats going on under it, lots of rust in my case.
After talking to a good friend who owns a garage and a lot of nice cars I buy a gallon of cheap engine oil and a gallon of duck oil to thin it a bit and one of those garden pump sprayer thingys.
Take the van too his yard a couple of times a year and give it a good soaking. It soaks into all the seams and welds etc plus you can still see whats going on under it. dirt just washes off under the arches etc now problem.
G
After talking to a good friend who owns a garage and a lot of nice cars I buy a gallon of cheap engine oil and a gallon of duck oil to thin it a bit and one of those garden pump sprayer thingys.
Take the van too his yard a couple of times a year and give it a good soaking. It soaks into all the seams and welds etc plus you can still see whats going on under it. dirt just washes off under the arches etc now problem.
G
st3v3
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Maybe. However, the cheaper price seems about right for someone with sensible overheads not looking to get rich. There are people who do good work at a reasonable price. Me for one! As has been proved many times you DO NOT necessarily get what you pay for!
ChrisInNotts
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For bad areas I wire brish then coat with waxoyl and allow to dry for a few days. I then cover with stone chip. I kept a Spitfire as my daily drive for 10 years so that strategy appeared to work ok
Keith
wildebus
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That comment takes me back over 30 years to college days, where a fellow student used to run around in a Fiat 126.
Every month the stone chip application got a little bit higher until near the end of the course, the pale yellow paintwork only dropped down as far as the door handles, and all below that was pretty pliable black stonechip
harrow
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My feeling as I said is have a go yourself.
If things are starting to rust oil and grease will help slow the rust down.
If you spray any wax coating over a car that has started to rust then the rust will carry on eating the metal under the wax, there is no magic cure.
A drop of engine oil inside the doors, box sections and sills will help.
One thing no one has mentioned is the strong smell of waxoyl and how it will run on a hot day, ok some of the spread will help to get it in all the gaps.
If things are starting to rust oil and grease will help slow the rust down.
If you spray any wax coating over a car that has started to rust then the rust will carry on eating the metal under the wax, there is no magic cure.
A drop of engine oil inside the doors, box sections and sills will help.
One thing no one has mentioned is the strong smell of waxoyl and how it will run on a hot day, ok some of the spread will help to get it in all the gaps.
Deleted member 43466
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rustproof
on my hymer some previous owner has put the end of the engine
breather pipe through a hole into the front crossmember no rust
in there. but the outer ends where the bumper fastens needed welding.
on my hymer some previous owner has put the end of the engine
breather pipe through a hole into the front crossmember no rust
in there. but the outer ends where the bumper fastens needed welding.
Deleted member 775
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That comment takes me back over 30 years to college days, where a fellow student used to run around in a Fiat 126.
Every month the stone chip application got a little bit higher until near the end of the course, the pale yellow paintwork only dropped down as far as the door handles, and all below that was pretty pliable black stonechip
i had a hb viva the chassis box sections were rather rotten to say the least ,as they did . anyway one dodge i used was i cut the floor pan open above the sections ,filled the darn things with concrete let it set a few days later it was as solid as a rock literally . ok the floor was made of 5 gallon oil drums and fibre glass but it passed its test thats when some places used a hammer and it lasted months and months until it finally gave up the ghost engine wise .scrapped it and somehow ended up with another heap maybe a concertina /cortina or some other rot box for a couple of quid .ha ha memories of heaps you did miles and miles in .total death traps but you never bothered then you just drove them untill they did drop to bits or you got fed up of them and shelled out another few quid for another runner .i suppose wealthy peeps never had that pleasure and memories
Byronic
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This seems like a great idea for old motorhomes. As long as you completely filled the sill and box sections and there was a reasonable amount of full length steel then you've formed a reinforced structural beam, ie the concrete taking the compressive stresses and the steel the tensile. Maybe even stronger than the original....maybe. Just need to take to a Surveyor or Architect for a pre MOT check, and reregister as an HGV if not already so
The VOSA Test Centres still do a Wheel Tappers routine with a hammer on wheels and hubs, even on my Class 4.