sorry only just now saw this question ! trouble is I don't know how your stove is fitted .when I fit one the flue is a push fit on the burner and pushed through the silicone flshing on the roof,so it just lifts off.adding a bend shouldn't have any effect on the draught of the flue.Any advice on the above questions Mr Brown? I think i need to become a member because everytime i post a comment it has to be checked by a mod and ends up being missed when it finally appears. Thanks
sorry only just now saw this question ! trouble is I don't know how your stove is fitted .when I fit one the flue is a push fit on the burner and pushed through the silicone flshing on the roof,so it just lifts off.adding a bend shouldn't have any effect on the draught of the flue.
I may be a bit careless but I just close up the burner door when I want to drive,if you're thinking of a bend,maybe you can put in a section with a damper,which is just a door in the flue pipe,then you have better control and can close uo properly for driving.
the t and g I use for ceilings is known as matchboarding and is about 9cms by 9mm thick.if you use it always seal it both sides with paint ,varnish or oil before fitting or it'll move too much and tongues may pop out of grooves
glad you asked that Trev. when you look at most overhead locker doors, they open upwards,but not quite to the ceiling because of the flimsy stays,which often mean the door has to be lifted a little before you close it.
as most vans have a low ceiling,these doors mean you have to duck under them and more or less stick your head in the cupboard to see what's in there.
using double cranked hinges means the door drops down completely out the way and allows total access to the cupboard interior
so the only reason I can see for making doors open upwards is -'accepted practice'. never really understood that !