Alternator upgrade to help charge habitation batteries?

Canalsman said:
I have the same B2B and likewise get a maximum of 42 amps output.

I spoke to Sterling about this and they fudged the answer by stating that the theoretical output is 60 amps but after allowing for conversion losses, cabling losses etc the real world figure is significantly lower. As we have both found.

Thus far, and I've been using the B2B for quite a few years, and touching wood... I've not had any overheating issues.
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I notice that the Sterling appear to use the input current rather than the output. Which is deceptive but I guess not many users will have a DC clamp meter so it hardly ever gets picked up. I'd be pretty pi55ed if I got 42A from a 60A unit but that's small print for ya.
Have you ever checked the input current? It wouldn't surprise me if they were over egging that too because 60A input with just 42A output would mean either a large difference in voltage or a low efficiency unit or false claims (or a combination of some/ all of them) .
 
merl said:
I notice that the Sterling appear to use the input current rather than the output. Which is deceptive but I guess not many users will have a DC clamp meter so it hardly ever gets picked up. I'd be pretty pi55ed if I got 42A from a 60A unit but that's small print for ya.
Have you ever checked the input current? It wouldn't surprise me if they were over egging that too because 60A input with just 42A output would mean either a large difference in voltage or a low efficiency unit or false claims (or a combination of some/ all of them) .
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No, I have no means of checking the input current.
 
Robmac said:
Would one (or more) of these act as an external heat sync?

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I'm not technical enough to have a clue whether they would, but just a thought.
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For heat sinks to work well they need to be attached to the sources of heat ie the semiconductors. In the Sterling B2B the semiconductors are buried inside the plastic casing which doesn't conduct heat very well. Hence the need to resort to airflow through the case. The Victron equivalent has a metal case with a heat sink attached to the back so it is easy to enhance the cooling either by conduction through a metal plate and/or fan(s) blowing through the fins of the heatsink.
 
Canalsman said:
No, I have no means of checking the input current.
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I can thoroughly recommend one of these to anyone.
I personally think every motor homer should own one. Checking what's happening in your system is dead easy, you just run the cable through the loop (the jaws open) and then read the current off.
It's accurate and has 3 ranges 2, 20 and 200A. On the lower range it'll indicate just a few milliamps so you can find fantom drains and overcurrents a piece of cake. It'll also do the usual voltage readings too and has a NCV function so it can sense a 230v live safely just by touching the outer insulation.
Many clamp meters only do AC current so If anyone's comparing similar types then make sure it does DC current too, ideally with 2A, 20A and 200A ranges.
 
Interested that the Sterling B2B isn't so truthful in its output I've just checked with my clamp-on meter my Renogy B2B, scarcely an amp difference between the 30A input and 30A charge to batteries, I put a 2kw load on the inverter to make sure it needed to work! And Trev this was at tickover, but i wouldn't leave it long on tickover as i'm sure the cooling for the alt isn't too good without a bit off driving air flow.
 
yeoblade said:
Interested that the Sterling B2B isn't so truthful in its output I've just checked with my clamp-on meter my Renogy B2B, scarcely an amp difference between the 30A input and 30A charge to batteries, I put a 2kw load on the inverter to make sure it needed to work! And Trev this was at tickover, but i wouldn't leave it long on tickover as i'm sure the cooling for the alt isn't too good without a bit off driving air flow.
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No bother, thing is alts require to spin fastish to produce a good smooth ac current before changing to dc through the regulator, about 1200 rpm is ok.
 
This is the output from my 30amp Votronic B2B last night. It was dark at the time so no other charging sources. Have seen it a touch higher than this.
 

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My solar hits 14.4 before dropping to a float around 13.4 ish, still getting a good charge this time of year.
 
Nabsim said:
This is the output from my 30amp Votronic B2B last night. It was dark at the time so no other charging sources. Have seen it a touch higher than this.
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On the Renogy BT app it always shows the full 30A charge, but I was intrigued to see if a clamp meter would confirm it, and it wasn't telling porky pies.
 
yeoblade said:
Interested that the Sterling B2B isn't so truthful in its output I've just checked with my clamp-on meter my Renogy B2B, scarcely an amp difference between the 30A input and 30A charge to batteries, I put a 2kw load on the inverter to make sure it needed to work! And Trev this was at tickover, but i wouldn't leave it long on tickover as i'm sure the cooling for the alt isn't too good without a bit off driving air flow.
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I have a Renogy B2B too, it's rated at 40A with the option to toggle to 1/2 power. Sure enough it delivers exactly 40A or 20A depending on the toggle option. I did measure the input current out of curiosity when I installed it, can't remember the exact figures but like Yeoblade I remember there wasn't a huge difference. Mathematically it should take less input current when the load battery is at its flattest (which seems counter intuitive 🤔)and will vary more with lead acid than lithium with lithium taking more input current overall.
I suspect that Sterling unit isn't up to spec even when measuring the input but we wont know for sure until Canalsman gets a clamp meter😉
 
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