Add Blue
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mistericeman
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Likely need to be plugged in to read where fault lies ....
Our 71 plate relay has just cost a small lump to fix similar issue with heater in the ad blue tank .
RichardHelen262
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After a while Adblue starts to crystallise and end up causing blockages,
Fisherman
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Make sure you have not overfilled.
Always check the level after any warning before filling.
Check the level on your dash if it’s showing full, try syphoning out a litre. If the gauge still shows full then you may have overfilled.
But sadly this can be caused by many other issues, you will need to have the system read to find out the exact cause, but I did sort my car by doing what I suggested. But the fact that your dash mentioned malfunction suggests you have an issue. and you won’t be alone, Adblue systems are a nightmare on all makes.
marchie
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Was the vehicle level when refilled? Did you try to restart the vehicle afterwards [I did a partial refill on VW Tiguan in the street and the road camber caused the tank float to stick. Reset itself after driving a few minutes on the level road and then stopped/restarted engine. Other people reported this fault on other vehicle, including, IIRC, a Ford Transit]
What capacity is the Adblue Tank and what range do Ford quote? My Tig was 12 Litres, the warning light comes on at 1500 miles left, yet I have never managed to get 10 litres as a refill! I have no gauge so have to rely on the refill valve in the 1.89Ltr Adblue refill bottle that cuts off when the Adblue reaches the tank neck
Steve
mistericeman
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Ford Transit Custom: AdBlue Reset Procedure - VehicleHistory
The Ford Transit Custom uses AdBlue to help reduce emissions. There are times you may need to reset it. Vehicle History takes a closer look.
How to reset the Ford Transit AdBlue warning light - Ford Transit (MK 8)
In today's video we see how to remedy the problem relating to the AdBlue system in the Ford Transit. This intervention is required if the system does not reset automatically after having intervened to...
www.scegliauto.com
Alun100
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Just had the same problem on 2017 2lt transit based van. Turned out to be faulty injector 2 which then messes up the exhaust and gives the Adblu alarm. I am in the process of having all 4 injectors replaced as the other 3 on their last legs according to diagnostics. Very very common fault on this engine
MrKenny
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At work we had a VW Crafter 35 (luton van) which was 2019 plated. If you got truly low, as in circa 500/600 miles left in the adblue, then that had a need for a fill, then a rock and roll drive around the yard to slosh the stuff around !
So it's not just VW by the sound of it, then ... The garage chaps kept talking about workshop time, down time, chargeable work - sounded costly, so that was our fix!
So it's not just VW by the sound of it, then ... The garage chaps kept talking about workshop time, down time, chargeable work - sounded costly, so that was our fix!
gasgas
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Oh groan. I am soon going to buy a new Burstner on a Fiat Ducato. I would much prefer an earlier Ducato - remember they did Euro 6 without adblu? BUT I am only changing my mh because my left knee wants an automatic. Those Fiats only had robotised autos, about which I have heard nothing good. So it needs to be a 'new' camper, which inevitably will come with lots of unnecessary computers and dodgy connectors. It's all very well saying take it to a garage for a diagnosis but the last three times I have done this, the diagnosis turned out to be very expensive and WRONG. The diagnostic computers lie, and instead of investigating why the computer says what it does the garage just changes the expensive part that the diagnoser said was faulty. Then it wasn't, so the garage then has to think. And then change the £60 sensor that was the actual fault, not the £1000 new or £500 repaired ABS pump. But by the time they have changed the £500 item and found out it wasn't that, they can't take it off and get a refund.
This is why I have stopmed my foot and got rid of the computerised car and bought a 40 year old Mercedes with hardly any electrics other than the ignition, battery and lights.
So when I get this new camper I am seriously considering getting a £4500 diagnostic computer, ignoring what it says and put my brain into thinking what the actual fault is.
I have a lot of respect for this guy, Diagnose Dan. He starts from the battery and works his way towards the fault. This is just some random video of his to give you the link. His videos are always educational and entertaining.
This is why I have stopmed my foot and got rid of the computerised car and bought a 40 year old Mercedes with hardly any electrics other than the ignition, battery and lights.
So when I get this new camper I am seriously considering getting a £4500 diagnostic computer, ignoring what it says and put my brain into thinking what the actual fault is.
I have a lot of respect for this guy, Diagnose Dan. He starts from the battery and works his way towards the fault. This is just some random video of his to give you the link. His videos are always educational and entertaining.
Thistle
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Well if you do end with Ad Blue the 20l containers from Screwfix are good value.
I have had OEM diags for pretty much every recent vehicle I have owned. The most heavily used and the one that turned out to be the most profitable was the Rover T4 system which could do Rover 25s through to Range Rovers.
The Renault diags were essential for resetting my Grand Scenics AC system which had a weird intermittent fault which turned out to be wiring to the trinary switch.
The BMW system is essential for doing coding.
I have VCDS for VW despite it being a bit limited for my Crafter.
Currently looking to buy a Kia KDS clone for my Soul EV
Diags tools are only any good if the operator has the skill set or often more importantly is allowed sufficient time to use them correctly most fault codes are hints to an issue and not just a method to fire the parts canon at customers expense.
Sadly most garages make their profit from miss diagnosis and the parts canon at the customers expense.
When expensive, best guess, it might fix it maybe, guv type parts are changed always ask for the old part back.
Pay the invoice ‘without prejudice’ and reserve your right to have the allegedly faulty part tested.
I have had OEM diags for pretty much every recent vehicle I have owned. The most heavily used and the one that turned out to be the most profitable was the Rover T4 system which could do Rover 25s through to Range Rovers.
The Renault diags were essential for resetting my Grand Scenics AC system which had a weird intermittent fault which turned out to be wiring to the trinary switch.
The BMW system is essential for doing coding.
I have VCDS for VW despite it being a bit limited for my Crafter.
Currently looking to buy a Kia KDS clone for my Soul EV
Diags tools are only any good if the operator has the skill set or often more importantly is allowed sufficient time to use them correctly most fault codes are hints to an issue and not just a method to fire the parts canon at customers expense.
Sadly most garages make their profit from miss diagnosis and the parts canon at the customers expense.
When expensive, best guess, it might fix it maybe, guv type parts are changed always ask for the old part back.
Pay the invoice ‘without prejudice’ and reserve your right to have the allegedly faulty part tested.