3 way fridge (gas)

lthoel2

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i have an Electrolux 3 way fridge in our 1997 Motorhome. On our last outing the gas stopped working. The pilot light was on but it wasn’t getting cool. I’ve had the jet and burner cleaned. It’s now working but after 24hours the fridge is only getting to 10 degree centigrade with the knob turned to the highest setting and the freezer is -3 degree centigrade. Anyone have any other suggestions to what it could be or is it time for it to be replaced!! Thanks
 
If the fridge is cooling but insufficiently it is working and does not need replacing.

It is likely that the burner is not providing enough heat and despite getting the burner and jet cleaned I suggest replacing this assembly. It is possible that the jet was cleaned incorrectly. Frequently these are cleaned mechanically by pushing something into the jet. This damages the jet. The jet should only be cleaned with a solvent and compressed air.

Does the fridge work as it should on 240v? If so this also indicates an issue with the burner and jet.

Finally the flue may need cleaning to get rid of general grot in order to improve the burner efficiency.
 
Thanks for the replies. I had it on gas yesterday for 24 hours and it was reading 10c. I’ve had it on 240v since 9am this morning,I’ve just been and checked and that is on 10c as well. I will leave it on overnight to see what reading I get then
 
Just replaced the burner on our fridge, had to take the fridge out to do it as very restricted access from the vents. I have a simple fridge thermometer but how accurate they are for actual temperature reading is not certain. I just use mine as a “comparator”. If it where it normally is then that’s fine, if it’s not then something is wrong. I take it the usual van flat and nothing blocking the vents has been checked? To help mine in hot weather I have two computer fans fitted to the top vent to extract air and I have baffled the inside area to force drawn air over the inter cooler. Any absorption fridge struggles in high ambient temperatures, there is only so much energy going in so only so much heat comes out.
 
Thanks for the replies. I had it on gas yesterday for 24 hours and it was reading 10c. I’ve had it on 240v since 9am this morning,I’ve just been and checked and that is on 10c as well. I will leave it on overnight to see what reading I get then
That appears to indicate two possibilities.

First that the flue needs cleaning.

Second that high ambient temperatures are the problem. It is stated that absorption fridges can only cool to 20 degrees less than ambient. So the 10 degrees might be the best you can achieve at an ambient of 30 degrees. That temperature isn't necessarily the temperature outside the vehicle; it may be the temperature within the enclosure around the fridge.

There are big gains to be made by forcing the cooling with fans. These are usually placed to draw the air past the heat exchanger on the back of the fridge and out through the top vent.
 
I had the same problem about three years ago and cleaning the flue cured it, I now clean it once a year and have had no problems since (touch wood :unsure: )

Regards,
Del
 
I`m with Canalsman on this (y)

I have cooling fans fitted in the top vent blowing outwards, this automatically pulls air into the bottom vent and across the heat exchanger.

We`ve just done 4 weeks in southern France were the temperature hit 32C + and our fridge managed ok, the freezer compartment also kept items frozen.
 
How the fridge is stocked can make a difference too, air needs to circulate so don't have it jammed full, and don't keep opening the door to check temp get a remote sensor.
 
That appears to indicate two possibilities.

First that the flue needs cleaning.

Second that high ambient temperatures are the problem. It is stated that absorption fridges can only cool to 20 degrees less than ambient. So the 10 degrees might be the best you can achieve at an ambient of 30 degrees. That temperature isn't necessarily the temperature outside the vehicle; it may be the temperature within the enclosure around the fridge.

There are big gains to be made by forcing the cooling with fans. These are usually placed to draw the air past the heat exchanger on the back of the fridge and out through the top vent.
There is a fan behind the top vent which I had on. Yes it was very hot on the days I was trying it. Our weather forecast is for a lot cooler from this weekend so I will give it another go then.
I do have a digital thermometer with a probe so I don’t need to open the door to check it.
 
i have an Electrolux 3 way fridge in our 1997 Motorhome. On our last outing the gas stopped working. The pilot light was on but it wasn’t getting cool. I’ve had the jet and burner cleaned. It’s now working but after 24hours the fridge is only getting to 10 degree centigrade with the knob turned to the highest setting and the freezer is -3 degree centigrade. Anyone have any other suggestions to what it could be or is it time for it to be replaced!! Thanks
Hi I was told sometime ago that you can get an "airlock" with the gas in the fridge and rolling the fridge over in a certain direction clears this. I found this on the internet http://hymers700.blogspot.com/2019/10/turning-fridges-upside-down-truth-about.html
I don't know if it works and I guess it would be a bit of hassle to remove the fridge but once rolled you could jury rig a mains supply to the fridge and test it. as if it needs to be replaced you would need to take it out anyway!
 
i have an Electrolux 3 way fridge in our 1997 Motorhome. On our last outing the gas stopped working. The pilot light was on but it wasn’t getting cool. I’ve had the jet and burner cleaned. It’s now working but after 24hours the fridge is only getting to 10 degree centigrade with the knob turned to the highest setting and the freezer is -3 degree centigrade. Anyone have any other suggestions to what it could be or is it time for it to be replaced!! Thanks
A few sites say the chemicals that make up the gas separate and rolling the fridge re mixes them (although I thought it was ammonia in the 3 way fridge) I also found this on the internet
remove the fridge as mentioned are usually held in by screws at front remove front door and the small plastic plugs in the facia you will then see the screws
also disconnect gas pipe and electrical connections at rear on outside of van at fridge base area there is an access panel that allows you to do above
when you get it out lay it on if face on a rug/mat for 10 minutes then tip it upside down and sit it on its top for 15 minutes
you will hear the fluids gurgling through the pipes then return it to its base you will again hear gurgling then wait 10 minutes before starting it up
this method has been used by me on countless fridges over many years and it has always worked for me with the fridges freezing up really well afterwards.

Might be worth a go you have nothing to loose.
 
Well, now the weather has cooled down I have run the fridge on electric for 24hours And I’ve got these readings……
Fridge 3.5c
Freezer box. -10.9c
24 hours on gas
Fridge 6.2c
Freezer box -5c.
Do these sound about right?
 
Not entirely.

The performance on gas should be pretty much the same as on mains.

The mains temperature readings are about right.

I suggest again that you fit a new burner assembly and clean the flue.

Within the flue you should find a fairly short strip of metal with a twist that is suspended within the flue.

This slows the rate of heat rising through the flue to maximise the fridge efficiency.
 

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