Electrolux fridge problem

[NeilyG]

On the Autosleeper van we used for the very first time last weekend we realised the ignition button for our Electrolux 4233 S (left in pic) was jammed down in the ignition position & wouldn’t pull out or even turn.
I managed to prise the knob itself away &, with a little help from wd40 & a tap with a hammer, got the spindle to pop back out & rotate.
With the knob back on it now turns & pushes in fine, but when I switch the spark switch on & press the knob I can hear one whoof of the gas trying to catch but it doesn‘t quite make it & the sparking just continues without a flame - so can’t get the fridge to start.

I’m reckoning that being jammed in the pushed down ignition position for so long has maybe caused some part to no longer behave itself properly? Any advice would be much appreciated (can access the back of the fridge from outside by removing the vent panels).

 

[mfw]

Probably better getting serviced save problems later or just replace dependant on price ( labour can be expensive ) and you want a reliable appliance

 

[izwozral]

Probable causes:

There are a few reasons behind this. First, it could be down to the thermocouple, which regulates how much gas is in the fridge’s burner at any time. If this component fails, it’s time to replace it.

If replacing the thermocouple doesn’t fix the issue, perhaps your pilot light’s gas line has too much air in it. This will prevent the pilot light from turning on and staying on. Fixing this means getting into the fridge’s gas valves and resetting them.

 

[yorkslass]

As a temporary measure Neil, you can remove the outside vent and light with a stove lighter.....two person job though.

 

[spigot]

Have you tried holding that knob in for a few seconds until the gas is well under way?

 

[NeilyG]

Thanks for your input.
One thing I've realised while looking at it again is that when I was first trying it on the road the sparker was producing a yellow flickering but now there is nothing to see - so, maybe I was overdoing it & the spark has now lost its 'spark'?

 

[NeilyG]

Have you tried holding that knob in for a few seconds until the gas is well under way?

Yes, maybe overdoing it to cause the sparker to no longer work as it should?

 

[in h]

The ignition on these uses a very high voltage down the wire to the igniter. When there is no flame, it builds up to a high enough voltage to make a spark, which repeats until the flame catches. It detects that the flame has lit by detecting the current generated by the ion flow in the flame. Then it just holds enough voltage to detect if the flame goes out.

[later] Just realised that yours is a manual one, not automatic. They don't detect the flame and reignite. They just use piezo crystal to generate a spark when you press a button.[/later]

The wire needs to be very well insulated to work, and attached in the right place near the burner.

The flame failure device that uses the thermocouple is an entirely separate arrangement. It simply detects when the thermocouple tip cools down and stops generating a voltage, and it releases the solenoid that hold the gas supply on.

From your description, it sounds like the thermocouple maybe isn't heating up properly, or is corroded and not working properly, or you're just not holding the knob in for long enough.

Check that the tip is well into the flame and getting heated. If it isn't, re-align it (or clean the fridge burner).

If it is, replace it. You can buy a generic one from Screwfix or Toolstation vastly cheaper than the original make, and just as good

 

[NeilyG]

Whoops!

 

[n brown]

oh dear, may not be as bad as it looks, might just be burnt crud on the burner ,a good clean might sort it

 

[runnach]

.

 

[colinm]

The ignition on these uses a very high voltage down the wire to the igniter. When there is no flame, it builds up to a high enough voltage to make a spark, which repeats until the flame catches. It detects that the flame has lit by detecting the current generated by the ion flow in the flame. Then it just holds enough voltage to detect if the flame goes out.

[later] Just realised that yours is a manual one, not automatic. They don't detect the flame and reignite. They just use piezo crystal to generate a spark when you press a button.[/later]

The wire needs to be very well insulated to work, and attached in the right place near the burner.

The flame failure device that uses the thermocouple is an entirely separate arrangement. It simply detects when the thermocouple tip cools down and stops generating a voltage, and it releases the solenoid that hold the gas supply on.

From your description, it sounds like the thermocouple maybe isn't heating up properly, or is corroded and not working properly, or you're just not holding the knob in for long enough.

Check that the tip is well into the flame and getting heated. If it isn't, re-align it (or clean the fridge burner).

If it is, replace it. You can buy a generic one from Screwfix or Toolstation vastly cheaper than the original make, and just as good

AFAIK all the ones with rocker switch, as per photo, will spark continually until the flame ignites, if the flame goes out then the ignitor will once again start to spark.

 

[in h]

AFAIK all the ones with rocker switch, as per photo, will spark continually until the flame ignites, if the flame goes out then the ignitor will once again start to spark.

That was my initial thought, but i suspect that switch is for the 12v or mains.

 

[colinm]

That was my initial thought, but i suspect that switch is for the 12v or mains.

On ours the 12v and Mains are at other end of fridge and are red and green (IIRC), but the ignitor switch is next to gas controls and is orange

 

[NeilyG]

That was my initial thought, but i suspect that switch is for the 12v or mains.

Electrical switches are on the other side of the fridge. The 3 controls in the pic are all for the gas & the right hand switch behaves as said by colinmd.
Will take it out & clean up tomorrow - will also check the jet isn't blocked up.
Useful video on youtube.

 

[in h]

Electrical switches are on the other side of the fridge. The 3 controls in the pic are all for the gas & the right hand switch behaves as said by colinmd.
Will take it out & clean up tomorrow - will also check the jet isn't blocked up.
Useful video on youtube.

In that case, my first paragraph does apply.

 

[harrow]

Electrical switches are on the other side of the fridge. The 3 controls in the pic are all for the gas & the right hand switch behaves as said by colinmd.
Will take it out & clean up tomorrow - will also check the jet isn't blocked up.
Useful video on youtube.

Good video, I am sure Marie will supervise, if you need a hand

 

[in h]

You don't need to take the fridge out to fix it, as long as it has vents top and bottom.

 

[n brown]

of course you'll have to turn the whole van upside down

 

[runnach]

Basics first , before messing with thermocouples etc and igniters is gas getting to the burner ? And using Sues idea of manual ignition is it lighting and staying lit. If there is no gas back to the original problem knob is it allowing the gas control valve to open correctly when it is depresssed this is the very first thing to check at this stage thermocouples are of no relevance even more so if when the knob is released the flame remains lit ( no problem with a thermocouple)

There is every chance the vehicle stood for a while then driven has disturbed detritus and crap on an within the burner so that is worth a routine clean too, and by doing so may solve your problem