Protecting the underside of my motorhome.

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I need to protect the underside of my motorhome and I was hoping for some advice from our community.

1) What is the best long-term solution to protect the underside of the vehicle?

2) Any recommendations of companies to do the work for me?

Thanks in advance.
 
Silicone Spray

As part of my yearly maintenance schedule, I spray the chassis, and underside, with any of the silicone based sprays, marketed for bumpers, or dashboards, available from one of the pound shops.

After 12 years, it still looks new, underneath, and always impresses the m.o.t. tester. It's also good for any of the rubber type components.

On my previous motorhome, I treated it with Waxoyl, but it was very messy, and made any maintenance a very dirty job, afterwards.
 
Waxoil mixed with old engine oil, but I would wait until summertime so that it will be dryer as the last thing you will want to do is trap any damp in
 
Hi

Dinatrol is very good and if your going to get the underside done it would be worth having all the chassis injected as well as they usually rust from the inside out. If you are in Lincolnshire you could try these Rust Prevention & Remover UK, Rust Prevention For Cars Supplier although last time I checked them they used an high grade Waxoyl - but they do the full injection service but expect to not get a huge amount of change from £1000 (my little Sherpa van at the time was going to cost £500)

If its just a spray over you want then my local HGV garage done my Motor home for £80 - they are in Suffolk (very close to a campsite as well :)

Hope that helps :)

James
 
Dont use old engine oil,dinitrol or waxol ,use a parifin gun & compressor to get inside all box sections and sill/doors if steel.
Then use a rubberised brush on for all the main underside including inner guards :wave:
 
Dont use old engine oil,dinitrol or waxol ,use a parifin gun & compressor to get inside all box sections and sill/doors if steel.
Then use a rubberised brush on for all the main underside including inner guards :wave:

Trev, sounds like you have an opportunity to set up a rust protection business ?

:D
 
It’s a newish van what are you worried obout by the time it’s a problem it’ll be somebody else’s problem you’re looking to fix somthing that doesn’t need fixed the steel and metal used nowadays is miles better than the sh.te that was around 70s 80s. Feel free to spend loads of dosh if it makes you feel better but I personally don’t think you need to.
 
It’s a newish van what are you worried obout by the time it’s a problem it’ll be somebody else’s problem you’re looking to fix somthing that doesn’t need fixed the steel and metal used nowadays is miles better than the sh.te that was around 70s 80s. Feel free to spend loads of dosh if it makes you feel better but I personally don’t think you need to.

I would tend to agree, but I am one of those people that spends far more than is needed on any car - I usually get the clutch, cambelt and every other "common" issue sorted on any car I buy even if its not needed. I think its a peace of mind thing. Saying that I have never in my life made a profit selling a car BUT the buyer has always been happy :)
 
Waxoyl and have used Tetrosyl couldn't see much difference in either before or after application messy but a easy DIY job with air compressor and spray gun
 
Trev, sounds like you have an opportunity to set up a rust protection business ?

:D

Im at this as we type on my newish car,all striped down with door panels of carpet out to get at sill bungs,rear hatch door trim of and sprayed and front hood to,front guard trims of and sorted,just under floor chassis legs etc to do before rubberising the underside,hay ho must be done.
 
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It’s a newish van what are you worried obout by the time it’s a problem it’ll be somebody else’s problem you’re looking to fix somthing that doesn’t need fixed the steel and metal used nowadays is miles better than the sh.te that was around 70s 80s. Feel free to spend loads of dosh if it makes you feel better but I personally don’t think you need to.

It means rust free mot and a if wanted a better resale price,im sure he will keep this one for the next 40 years or so well into the electric era.
 
It’s a newish van what are you worried obout by the time it’s a problem it’ll be somebody else’s problem you’re looking to fix somthing that doesn’t need fixed the steel and metal used nowadays is miles better than the sh.te that was around 70s 80s. Feel free to spend loads of dosh if it makes you feel better but I personally don’t think you need to.

Let me know when your selling so i can stay well away.
 
I would tend to agree, but I am one of those people that spends far more than is needed on any car - I usually get the clutch, cambelt and every other "common" issue sorted on any car I buy even if its not needed. I think its a peace of mind thing. Saying that I have never in my life made a profit selling a car BUT the buyer has always been happy :)

I bought a car once for £340 and received well over £7000 from ins after sod rammed my ass, then my last one cost me £10 and again received almost £2000 from sod who hit me side on to which i repaired from my spares,if i scrap it now i will get over £100 and i have had over 15/16 years driving from her,dont understand how folk lose money on cars.:dance:,except being sucked in by well dressed smooth talking sales men.
 
I need to protect the underside of my motorhome and I was hoping for some advice from our community.

1) What is the best long-term solution to protect the underside of the vehicle?

2) Any recommendations of companies to do the work for me?

Thanks in advance.

Doesn't yours have an under tray?
 
I bought a car once for £340 and received well over £7000 from ins after sod rammed my ass, then my last one cost me £10 and again received almost £2000 from sod who hit me side on to which i repaired from my spares,if i scrap it now i will get over £100 and i have had over 15/16 years driving from her,dont understand how folk lose money on cars.:dance:,except being sucked in by well dressed smooth talking sales men.

At some point in my life i had a love affair with British Layland cars (and I am only 30 so the cars were in there 30s aswell) - hence the reason I never make money on a car lol! I love the unusual, unreliable and unloved makes :)
 
Hi

Dinatrol is very good and if your going to get the underside done it would be worth having all the chassis injected as well as they usually rust from the inside out. If you are in Lincolnshire you could try these Rust Prevention & Remover UK, Rust Prevention For Cars Supplier although last time I checked them they used an high grade Waxoyl - but they do the full injection service but expect to not get a huge amount of change from £1000 (my little Sherpa van at the time was going to cost £500)

If its just a spray over you want then my local HGV garage done my Motor home for £80 - they are in Suffolk (very close to a campsite as well :)

Hope that helps :)

James

I was going to say Dinitrol professionally applied but James beat me to it. His figures are around what I have seen quoted for similar vehicles and is a small price to pay for what it gives you, especially considering the vehicle cost.

I am seriously considering getting my van done with the same product even though it is 14 years old.
 
i bought a car once for £340 and received well over £7000 from ins after sod rammed my ass, then my last one cost me £10 and again received almost £2000 from sod who hit me side on to which i repaired from my spares,if i scrap it now i will get over £100 and i have had over 15/16 years driving from her,dont understand how folk lose money on cars.:dance:,except being sucked in by well dressed smooth talking sales men.
it's a ll about the number plates,
 
I understand that with any sealant applied to the vehicle underside regular checks are essential. Otherwise a perforation of the sealant can lead to moisture becoming trapped and corrosion occuring.
 
Ridiculous amount of money to pay fro the treatment of a bit of exposed chassis work.
Go to Aldi and buy a compressor(useful for loads of things and the accessory kit which includes a chassis sprayer. spray waxoyl if you cannot get better.. I have long reach aircraft wing spray misting equipment and I went through every box section on the new Merc and it was loaded in all the places damp could get. I will do it again next year and again after that. Most of body work on mine is inside the fibreglass underfloor area so is protected against most muck.. Also fit spray guards to stop the road muck and water going up underneath the body, cheap enough or make something else to fit.
 

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