Route back from Granada to Calais - least amount of hills!

jaycey001

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I am having some engine overheating problems and the mechanic here wanted to charge me a grand to fix it (£200 job back at home!)

Anyway after allot of hassle I got my van back and am heading for home in a few weeks with some spare parts and bits but I would like a route that avoids too many long hill stretches or mountain passes. (Yes I know is it's mostly up hill back from Spain! :)

On the way down we went via Hendaye, Logroño, Madrid, Albacete. I was wondering if the east coast route would be better via Valencia and Girona?

Any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks
J
 
What make/model year and engine size you could do with having a dummy run up an hill with the heaters on hot and fan on full speed
 
I have just checked your past post your 1995 transit 2.5di banana engine would start first with a radiator flush see what comes out if all well then fit a new water pump should be an easy job before attempting any hills were you could end up cooking the engine
 
My van is not fond of hills so I came back via Bieritz. Sorry I can't give you all the roads though. I am sure you could plot the route on your map.
 
I am having some engine overheating problems and the mechanic here wanted to charge me a grand to fix it (£200 job back at home!)

Anyway after allot of hassle I got my van back and am heading for home in a few weeks with some spare parts and bits but I would like a route that avoids too many long hill stretches or mountain passes. (Yes I know is it's mostly up hill back from Spain! :)

On the way down we went via Hendaye, Logroño, Madrid, Albacete. I was wondering if the east coast route would be better via Valencia and Girona?

Any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks
J

Girona route is good for you then up to Perpignan, Bordeaux then up the N910/10 or A10 toll towards Paris, then around the Periferique -very busy- and up to Calais. There are other routes around Paris but no steep hills. Avoid the centre of Spain and France and you should be ok.
 
Please explain the problem. It must be possible to find a workaround or repair to make the journey less problematic ...
 
Girona route is good for you then up to Perpignan, Bordeaux then up the N910/10 or A10 toll towards Paris, then around the Periferique -very busy- and up to Calais. There are other routes around Paris but no steep hills. Avoid the centre of Spain and France and you should be ok.

Thank you for advice, I remember doing that route a few years ago and can only remember one big hill around Barcelona. I will take this option on the way back...
 
Regarding the problem with the van it was getting hot on the way down with any hills, so I took the thermostat out which was stuck shut. However it's still getting warm.
I had it recovered to a local garage but they were really trying it on saying I needed a clutch, gasket and radiator (clutch done a week before I left!!). So I got the van back and said I wasn't going ahead with repairs.

I have flushed the radiator, checked the water pump (all ok) flushed the matrix and today fitted a new temp gauge and sender unit. I am now thinking it maybe is a small leak of exhaust gases into the coolant which is causing the radiator to get an air lock when the engine is being worked hard (hills). It's fine on the flat and when in 5th gear.
I have removed some waxy stuff from the coolant and will continue flushing it untill we leave when I will put some K seal in to (hopefully) get us all home.

I think it will be ok aslong as I keep an eye on the gauges and fluid levels but just want to avoid as many hills as possible!
Will get it fixed in UK and head back over in December... Hopefully without any drama's ;)

Wish duo lingo had a car parts and mechanic's level 😀

Sorry for any spelling mistakes, auto correct on my phone is a bit tempremental!
 
Meant be bomb proof banana engine they use them on barges you need a sniffer see if any gasses in radiator hope you get home ok
 
you,ve done all the obvious stuff .my suspicion would still be a blocked radiator.
In a previous life as an AA patrol we'd remove the centre part of the thermostat only.Mind you I left in 1984 things have changed since then :)
 
you,ve done all the obvious stuff .my suspicion would still be a blocked radiator.
In a previous life as an AA patrol we'd remove the centre part of the thermostat only.Mind you I left in 1984 things have changed since then :)

When I raced stock cars we did exactly the same thing with the logic being if you took it out totally then the engine would not get up to temperature but removing centre gave sufficient flow.
 
If you top the radiator up to the rim when warm(caution when removing cap) do you get bubbles out when you rev engine? If you do these are the symptoms of a blown head gasket. Please feedback.
 
Dont know a thing about engines but am so impressed with how helpful everyone is trying to sort the problem out! What a nice bunch of people! :)
Hope you get back home safely!
 
If you top the radiator up to the rim when warm(caution when removing cap) do you get bubbles out when you rev engine? If you do these are the symptoms of a blown head gasket. Please feedback.
Unfortunately the ford transit doesn't have a top radiator cap, instead it's filled through the header tank which has water flowing through it so is difficult to see any bubbles.
:(
 
Its just the same fill to the brim. If its a head gasket leak it will come out in splurges. hopefully you can get back to UK without too much drama.
 
If building up pressure in cooling system run with radiator cap just on first clip. Whats the engine oil like is it clean or a milky colour if it is there's water in there to
 
hi
every time ive had a head gasket problem the heater matrix gets the
air locks and stops the heater getting hot. the water pump impellar can
sometimes spin on the shaft intermitadly causing bad flow.
do the water hoses get pressurised like hard to squeeze by hand. if you
leave the cap loose it might stop it blowing the water out.
 
Cooling suggestion

A few years ago I helped recover a Hymer from Venice who had a leaking waterpump so overheated quickly. To overcome the loss of water we fed the reservoir with a secondary water container with a pipe (windscreen washer). Every 50 mile approx we stopped to cool the engine and replenish the water. I also carried a watering can to always quickly top-up the reservoir on stopping to ease the engine trauma.

I assume the slime you mentioned was yellow-brown in colour thus from your symptoms described, as has already been said , it appears to be a head gasket, or a crack in the head. Keeping the cylinder head as cool as you can should help if a crack by reducing expansion. If the headgasket is leaking the internal combustion pressures will always escape which may worsen the already existing damage but every opportunity to keep the engine cool allows a better chance to control the situation.

Have you identified if you have white smoke emitted from your exhaust? If yes this suggests to me you have water entering the cylinders which would be another concern as there is not a lot of space in diesel cylinders as they compress the diesel so with water in it also other problems such as con-rods becoming bent or broken occur - hope this does not overly worry you, it is info for you to make a judgement about your situation.

There are products that you add to the coolant that aids repair of damaged headgaskets and could be an option for you. I have used them with differing results and would be a little concerned in advising them as a good solution, other members may have different experiences which could give you better advice.

With all the work you have already managed to achieve you appear to be very adept and resourceful with mechanics thus good luck with your return journey.

What ferry are you seeking to catch? Other members who live in Europe may also be able to offer support if your route is known.
Once you are in UK other support may be available.
 

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