MOT Failure, Handbrake HELP

Hi just to say when ajusting the hand brakesomeone has mentioned drilling the drum or backplate to acess the ajuster make sure the cable is fully slackened off then ajust untill the wheel is locked off slack off untill just rubbing do this both sides then ajust the cable you should be ok then
Brian and Marion
 
Had same problem. Load compensator was in need of strip down and service, all is well since. Talbot van, same on all other 'like types'.
Paol.
 
I worked on cars and light commercials for years doing MoT repairs and welding. Handbrakes are a bloody nuisance. Often poorly designed and usually difficult to maintain, they have been the cause of more grief than almost any other part of the car. Here is the method I eventually arrived at.
Slacken the cable off a little and then take the drum off one back wheel, there is normally a large countersunk screw holding it on. If there is a pronounced lip inside the drum this can be the first problem area, sometimes needing two very big screwdrivers, or even small tyre levers, and the application of some vigorous hammering. Sometimes the shoes will come off too, no problem. Once the drum is off, use a small angle grinder to remove the lip. If the lip is really pronounced, think about new drums. Take off the shoes if necessary; this can be the second problem area as the springs can be very strong, I used to use a big screwdriver with a slot cut down into the blade, remove the auto adjuster and give it a good clean up with a wire brush and then use a little grease to lubricate it and make sure it moves freely. Clean up the backplate and the shoes and check that the friction material on the shoes is okay for thickness. Reassemble it all and then slide the drum on. Slide the drum off again and manually adjust the auto adjuster, then slide the drum back on. Do this a few times till the brake shoes begin to make contact when sliding the drum back on. Fasten the drum back in place. Take up the slack in the h/brake cable with the adjuster, and then pull the h/brake on and release it a few times.Pull it on HARD! This will centralise the shoes, and you will find that you can take the drum off again and take up a little more adjustment on the auto(?)adjuster. Do this a couple of times to take out all the slack between the shoes and the drum. After pulling the h/brake on and off a couple of times turn the drum to make sure it is still free before doing the adjustment. A little bit of contact will not hurt, the drums will probably be slightly oval anyway. Put the wheel back on and do the other side. Finally adjust the cable so that the brake begins to bite as soon as it is pulled up. It is a lot of messing about, and will probably need doing again next year, they get hot and dusty and have quite a hard life - most campers start off with a base vehicle that is much lighter than the finished article! Incidentally, when applying the handbrake, you should push the button in when you pull the brake on and release it to hold it on. Letting it click up the ratchet quadrant will wear it out eventually!! Have fun!!
 
Hi joebuck
I am new to this forum and intrested in your problem have you replaced your rear shoes.
as there is a possibility that the lining material has glazed and you now have two slippery surfaces trying to grip on each other. I have a Ducato with the hymer body C class GVW 3100kgs. and a couple of weeks before the mot is due I normally strip the rear brakes and give the linings a rough up with a course file or hacksaw blade then I give the drums a good rub round with some course emery cloth make sure all moving parts are working re assemble adjust I find this works for me My lining material preference was always Don Mintex because its softer, cant get it now so I am still looking for the right soft lining materialas I think a lot of materials used are too hard. Good Luck
 
All this rubbing of Brake pads etc...mentioned in the thread, and I fully understand why the glaze needs removing re efficiency but a question !!!

Arent brake pads harbouring asbestos as part of their make up ...so a well ventilated area no sniffing of dust is doctors orders ?


Or am I stuck in a time warp ?

Channa
 
All this rubbing of Brake pads etc...mentioned in the thread, and I fully understand why the glaze needs removing re efficiency but a question !!!

Arent brake pads harbouring asbestos as part of their make up ...so a well ventilated area no sniffing of dust is doctors orders ?


Or am I stuck in a time warp ?

Channa


if i send you some old shoes ... will you sniff them for me please:cool:.... i fank you:rolleyes:


regards:(
aj
 
if i send you some old shoes ... will you sniff them for me please:cool:.... i fank you:rolleyes:


regards:(
aj

Errm no, and who mentioned shoes ??:confused:but if you send me a pair of slippers, pretty sure the hound can return them in a healthy state of destruction.

But the P&P's down to you

Channa;)
 
Had same problem. Load compensator was in need of strip down and service, all is well since. Talbot van, same on all other 'like types'.
Paol.

Unlikely for a relatively primitive cable operated hand brake surely?:confused:
 
All this rubbing of Brake pads etc...mentioned in the thread, and I fully understand why the glaze needs removing re efficiency but a question !!!

Arent brake pads harbouring asbestos as part of their make up ...so a well ventilated area no sniffing of dust is doctors orders ?


Or am I stuck in a time warp ?

Channa

Yup, Yesteryear technology.;
 
Lining material

Most pads and linings these days are of an asbestos free material but you still need to be in a well ventilated area as you will always get dust when removing drums and on the front calipers
I didn't realise that you could still get brake linings and pads with asbestos in them
In a time warp possibly
 
All this rubbing of Brake pads etc...mentioned in the thread, and I fully understand why the glaze needs removing re efficiency but a question !!!

Arent brake pads harbouring asbestos as part of their make up ...so a well ventilated area no sniffing of dust is doctors orders ?


Or am I stuck in a time warp ?

Channa
Dunno about time warp, but your reference to "Brake pads" implies disc brakes and the original discussion was about handbrakes. Your camper got discs on the back has it? :D
 
Unlikely for a relatively primitive cable operated hand brake surely?:confused:

The load compensator is part of the footbrake system and reduces or increases the amount of braking applied to the rear brakes according to the weight of the load on it, most vans have them though not all of them still work. The handbrake operates directly on the rear brakes at the drum, so is independant of the compensator.

Roughing up the friction material and the drums will not improve the efficiency of the brakes; if you think about it you are actually removing contact area so they will not be as effective. De-glazing is more effective, and this is why the brakes do seem better temporarily, but they will wear out much more quickly.:rolleyes:
 
Hi Norris,

I thought the whole idea of roughing up the shoes removed the glaze and gave a temporary improvement. It worked for me with some of the wrecks I had to drive when I had a growing family and no funds.

What you are really doing is making the shoe `snatch` on the worn drum. I believe that glazing occurs because the shoes have only been in light contact with the drum. Heavy pressure removes the top layer of material on the shoe and maintains a good braking action.

There again, I believe the Moon may be made of finest Wensleydale. :)
 
Hi Norris,

I thought the whole idea of roughing up the shoes removed the glaze and gave a temporary improvement. It worked for me with some of the wrecks I had to drive when I had a growing family and no funds.

What you are really doing is making the shoe `snatch` on the worn drum. I believe that glazing occurs because the shoes have only been in light contact with the drum. Heavy pressure removes the top layer of material on the shoe and maintains a good braking action.

There again, I believe the Moon may be made of finest Wensleydale. :)

you silly boy... stilton :p

from what i remember from my girling days is that glazing is an [FONT=&quot]occurrence[/FONT] from the introduction
of foreign particles having a polishing effect when drum and shoe (pad and disc) come into contact :confused::confused::confused:

the recommendation of the company was to remove and discard once glazing detected :eek:

off te bed now...:rolleyes:

regards:D
aj
 
A big thanks to everyone who has taken the time to comment on my problem with the handbrake. Due to the recent bad weather I have been unable to set about the task again. However I have just placed all the comments on a word doc and will now print out to study further with my mechanic.

The fact that I have been off the road for a few weeks has given me the time to do some jobs inside the van and fully appreciate the joys of getting away every weekend.
 

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