Dead RM7360L fridge

Pudsey Bear

Full Member
Posts
24,952
Likes
42,052
This fridge has been a problem since we first got this van; it refuses to light on the drive despite it being almost completely level. Normal routine has been to drive down to town, fill up with diesel, park in the supermarket while Liz does a small shop for day one, while I light the fridge, which it has always done, but this last trip, all failed, I even bought this https://amzn.eu/d/0bUlaV4o as a backup, which worked very well indeed, just the size was a bit small, Rob bought one as well.

But I'm lost as to what to do, once upon a time I would have dragged it out and had a look at it myself as the parts are cheap enough, or used to be, but now I need to take it somewhere to be fixed and those boys know how to charge, and at the end of the day I still just have a 3-way fridge, which can die at any time, and many do.

So I thought, is it me, am I doing it wrong somehow? So I found this video below, it seems I am not as daft as possible, and I have been doing it right, but it does throw up a couple of things which may be clues to those in the know.

1, you cannot press the gas button with one finger.

2, the red needle has never gone that far into the green; it barely goes into it more than 0.5mm, no matter how often either of us tried it wouldn't light, however on my way to the loo after being away for a week (I was desperate) I gave it another go, and it lit, whoopee we cried (not) but it only stayed lit a day and a half ish, all other stuff lights and wors as it should, I can have oven, grill and all three burners on together so not a pressure or supply problem.

I have tried to get a look at the burner, but it's beyond me now.

Any ideas?

 
Replace it with a 230v fridge and inverter, thats if you have a few 100ah batteries to power it, mine is a we fridge but works very well.
 
Sounds similar to my fridge on my old Kontiki. I regularly had to have the burner blown with a compressor to clear all the crud off it that comes down the flue. I think I had to have the burner or jet replaced a few times as well but I did have it 16 years. Could be the same.

If you can't do it yourself is there not a local able bodied member that might give you a hand? Anyone?
 
It all has a cost. Given unlimited funds, I would have done it right away David, but with a fixed gov pension, every penny has to be given a lot of thought as to where to spend it, I could get it looked at, but how much/long will the repair cost/last?

!2v fridge looks like the most sensible option if we went compressor, save the cost of an inverter with 230v.
 
The Red needle indicates the temperature of the thermocouple. If it isn't hot enough the supply valve doesn't open and the fridge goes off when you stop pushing the dial in.

Could be the thermocouple isn't in the flame or needs mending with a new one. (under £10)

A endoscope camera on your phone (about £10) lets you film the flame while you are inside pressing buttons.

Maybe worth spending £20 of your hard earned before you start paying dealer rates.

Good Luck.
 
I think if it were the thermocouple, which is held very rigid, it wouldn't have lit at all, I'm thinking it more like a blocked burner from rust in the chimney or spiders web tbh Pete, I just can't get at it, I did have a look after taking the bottom vent cover off when we were away, but I couldn't get the cover off the burner, by that time I had to give up I was in too much pain to carry on anyway.
 
If it will not light until you have travelled on our lovely potholed roads, unfortunately it sounds like the problem could be the cooling circuit (loss of gas/pressure) and beyond repair.
 
Could be Jim, I've sent a message just now to the local repair bloke, I need to get it sorted even if it's only to know if it's goosed or not, and fixing it will probably be the best option cost wise I think.
 
I think if it were the thermocouple, which is held very rigid, it wouldn't have lit at all, anyway.

When you are holding the dial you are holding the valve supply gas to the burner open, this means the burner will light.
When you release the dial the valve is held open by the voltage generated by the thermocouple, if no voltage the valve closes and the burner goes out.

Thermocouple problems (misplaced or broken) typically light while the dial is held and go out when the dial is released,

Hope you get sorted whatever the problem.
 
Last edited:
When you are holding the dial you are holding the valve supply gas to the burner open, this means the burner will light.
When you release the dial the valve is held open by the voltage generated by the thermocouple, if no voltage the valve closes and the burner goes out.

Thermocouple problems (misplaced or broken) typically light while the dial is held and go out when the dial is released,

Hope you get sorted whatever the problem.
Yeah, that's how it should work of course, just isn't, I've had half a dozen of theseb3 ways in bits, only one needed a thermocouple though.
 
We need more detailed symptoms to work with.

e.g.

Is there a spark?

Have you checked the ignition battery?

Make / model of fridge

Does it light when you hold the button in.

This will also help any dealer you involve.
 
It all has a cost. Given unlimited funds, I would have done it right away David, but with a fixed gov pension, every penny has to be given a lot of thought as to where to spend it, I could get it looked at, but how much/long will the repair cost/last?

!2v fridge looks like the most sensible option if we went compressor, save the cost of an inverter with 230v.
230v fridge £100/£150, 12v fridge £400/600
Used fridge zero to maybe £50 plus 40/50 inverter
 
It all has a cost. Given unlimited funds, I would have done it right away David, but with a fixed gov pension, every penny has to be given a lot of thought as to where to spend it, I could get it looked at, but how much/long will the repair cost/last?

!2v fridge looks like the most sensible option if we went compressor, save the cost of an inverter with 230v.
You need to compare the cost of a 12V Compressor Fridge vs the cost of a 240V one before you can make that decision.
240V + Inverter will be notably less than just about any 12V one. And then you also have an Inverter that you can use for other things as well.
 
We need more detailed symptoms to work with.

e.g.

Is there a spark?

Have you checked the ignition battery?

Make / model of fridge

Does it light when you hold the button in.

This will also help any dealer you involve.
Model of fridge is the title, it's a dometic, it's piezo ign, no battery, yes it lit once, lasted two day, then not again.

I said I can't do anything more now, and the repair place will hopefully have a clue once they see it.
 
You need to compare the cost of a 12V Compressor Fridge vs the cost of a 240V one before you can make that decision.
240V + Inverter will be notably less than just about any 12V one. And then you also have an Inverter that you can use for other things as well.
Bouncing a house fridge on some of the really rough roads we go on concerns me quite a lot David, they are not designed to take any abuse.
 
Do you have access to a compressor Kev? I know on my my old one thats all it took to get mine going. Took off the vent and just blew compressed air all around the burner and it would light. Its not a permanent solution but it often worked for a summer season.
 
Not anymore, it packed up, no use for one now, and I can't get to the burner on the van mate. Normally, there is a tiny Phillips screw, and you can take the protective cover off, but not this one, and I simply can't get to it anyway, as there are acres of wiring I'm loath to disturb in fear of creating yet another problem, I've had to this on a few vans as it a common thing, and there is a bit of wiring but not like this has.
 
Back
Top