Sealant for motorhome sink

[barryd]

If you use masking tape on both surfaces giving the required amount of bead, then use a wet implement to smooth out the sealant, remove tape and voila, perfect finish. Is there anything you could practice on before doing it for real? Anything with a 90° angle would do the trick.

To be honest I think having read all the much appreciated replies I think its best left to a professional.

I Do kind of like Robs idea though to be fair but I am quite attached to my testicles.

 

[Tezza33]

I am quite attached to my testicles.

Personally I think testicles are a load of bollocks

 

[bartman]

To be honest I think having read all the much appreciated replies I think its best left to a professional.

I Do kind of like Robs idea though to be fair but I am quite attached to my testicles.

Yes, we've seen that photo

 

[marchie]

Thanks. This is already sounding a bit above my pay grade. I don't want to mess it up and make it look awful. I presume a quadrant is like a bit of wood the full length? Will the quadrant stick out? I think I might have to refer it to my motorhome guy.

An alternative to quadrant is a narrow strip of l-profile aluminium [online order or 1m strip at large B&Q for around £5. Mastic colle from French DIY stores is brilliant - literally mastic glue and seals brilliantly. I think Toolstation and Screwfix stock an Anglicised equivalent

EDIT: CT-1 is waterproof [their video shows a brick being stuck to another material under water] and their solvent remover cleans old sealant away effortlessly; it can also be used carefully with a smoothing implement [old teaspoon] to remove excess new sealant - just dab the CT-1 Remover onto the smoothing tool with a wad of kitchen roll and pass it over the surface - needs replenishing every 6-12 inches to maintain the smoothing and eliminate the risk of 'drag' from the newly-installed CT-1 EDIT Ends

Steve

 

[marchie]

Personally I think testicles are a load of bollocks

But less of a load during cold weather ... Depending on one's age, a load of old bollocks may be more apposite ...

Steve

 

[YeoBlade]

Not noticed the CT1 stuff before Steve looks a good product for this in a few colours too.

 

[Robmac]

Not noticed the CT1 stuff before Steve looks a good product for this in a few colours too.

I can confirm it is excellent stuff.

 

[marchie]

Not noticed the CT1 stuff before Steve looks a good product for this in a few colours too.

Excellent stuff, but very pricey! I paid about £28 for CT-1 and the Remover, so went round the kitchen and bathroom sealing everything in sight - and 6 months later we had the bathroom and kitchen replaced ...

Steve

 

[Robmac]

Excellent stuff, but very pricey! I paid about £28 for CT-1 and the Remover, so went round the kitchen and bathroom sealing everything in sight - and 6 months later we had the bathroom and kitchen replaced ...

Steve

In the great scheme of things Steve, I probably wouldn't worry about 28 quid if I was paying for a new bathroom and kitchen!

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Whichever way it's tackled, it needs to be perfectly clean, which is difficult around bathrooms, they tend to be very great, which is the enemy of sealant or adhesive.

If not done sooner rather than later and properly, the worktop bit will start to rot, and then you have a huge problem.

It really needs to come off the wall, so not a DIY job for most, so if you have a man, get him in.

 

[barryd]

Whichever way it's tackled, it needs to be perfectly clean, which is difficult around bathrooms, they tend to be very great, which is the enemy of sealant or adhesive.

If not done sooner rather than later and properly, the worktop bit will start to rot, and then you have a huge problem.

It really needs to come off the wall, so not a DIY job for most, so if you have a man, get him in.

The solid sink top is totally sealed and tough Kev. It will be fine I reckon. Just needs some proper sealant or some PVC quadrant as suggested perhaps but I agree to do it properly its best left to someone who does this kind of stuff every day. Its not like it will be a big job for him I reckon.

 

[marchie]

In the great scheme of things Steve, I probably wouldn't worry about 28 quid if I was paying for a new bathroom and kitchen!

I agree, Rob, but with a complete re-roofing, new dormer window roofs including replacing the felt 'tiles' on the sides with upvc cladding, and new guttering front and back starting on Tuesday of next week, on top of rewiring, replacement windows and doors, power to the garage, new garage roof to remove asbestos, the £28 might be needed ...

Steve

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Is the back edge, the out of sight bit sealed? I doubt it.

 

[Nabsim]

Thanks again. I like Neils tape idea but I fear I won't get right into the corners with it. As its a really nice bathroom I'm not sure I should attempt it myself now.

I haven't tried tight corners Barry but if you look at pics on some of the products they certainly do it. One I looked at uses a heat gun to soften the acrylic tape to form more easily.

Certainly good stuff where I have used it so far

 

[barryd]

I haven't tried tight corners Barry but if you look at pics on some of the products they certainly do it. One I looked at uses a heat gun to soften the acrylic tape to form more easily.

Certainly good stuff where I have used it so far

Ill suggest it to my man, see what he says. This is what he has done for decades and he specialises in stuff like this. I've seen him gut entire motorhomes and caravans and put them back together so this should be an easy one for him. I know ill mess it up.

On the plus side I just fixed my hab door which has been driving Michelle mad for ages as its a bugger to open. I got my new cordless power drill / screwdriver on it when I Discovered the bottom hinge had dropped and the allen key bolts were a bit loose. Dunno how I missed that before.