Awning light not working

[antiqueman]

I have just purchased a new outside/awning light as mine was k nackered but have no power to the wires and no idea where they are fed from, all fuses are fine on electroblock.

1998 swift kontiki 640.

all help appreciated.

Paul

 

[Robmac]

I presume you have checked the switch? (sorry to state the obvious).

 

[antiqueman]

Thanks for your reply, the only switch was ever on the light outside which was broken, hence replacement

 

[r4dent]

Thanks for your reply, the only switch was ever on the light outside which was broken, hence replacement

I think you mean "the only switch THAT I USED was on the light"
There could be another switch in series that was always on

and now .... Random thoughts from a random mind

There is often an awning light switch built into the control panel
Does the awning light run from the main light circuit (i.e. only powered when main lights are on?
Is power getting to the two wires that you are attaching the awning light to ?
Has the bulb got damaged during installation ? (check resistance)

Pictures of old and new lights may help diagnosis.

 

[wildebus]

I have just purchased a new outside/awning light as mine was k nackered but have no power to the wires and no idea where they are fed from, all fuses are fine on electroblock.

1998 swift kontiki 640.

all help appreciated.

Paul

Be useful to confirm what is actually fitted?
A Swift Kontiki will not have an Electroblock, it will have a Sargent Electrical system. (maybe said Electroblock as a generic name but it is a specific product range of Schaudt and never found on British vans).
1998 is going to be a fairly basic Sargent System, but usaally there is a dedicated switch for it on Sargent systems but typically labeled Aux rather than Awning. On some Sargent systems, the wiring used for the Awning light (when looking at the wiring diagram) is not actually connected, so tracing the wiring using that method can be a red herring sometimes.
So my question would be what actual Power Distribution Unit (where you checked all the fuses) is fitted?

Also, you said new light fitted as old was knackered? did the old one ever work in your ownership? (that is unclear). Does the one you took off light up if you apply 12V to the connection to it?

 

[r4dent]

Also, you said new light fitted as old was knackered? did the old one ever work in your ownership? (that is unclear). Does the one you took off light up if you apply 12V to the connection to it?

Worthwhile testing the new one as well.

Make a list of the tests that you do and post it with the results.
The more info we have the better our suggestions

 

[antiqueman]

Worthwhile testing the new one as well.

Make a list of the tests that you do and post it with the results.
The more info we have the better our suggestions

The switch was broken on the old one but did work years ago, there is no voltage at the wiring, tested with multimeter.

 

[antiqueman]

Be useful to confirm what is actually fitted?
A Swift Kontiki will not have an Electroblock, it will have a Sargent Electrical system. (maybe said Electroblock as a generic name but it is a specific product range of Schaudt and never found on British vans).
1998 is going to be a fairly basic Sargent System, but usaally there is a dedicated switch for it on Sargent systems but typically labeled Aux rather than Awning. On some Sargent systems, the wiring used for the Awning light (when looking at the wiring diagram) is not actually connected, so tracing the wiring using that method can be a red herring sometimes.
So my question would be what actual Power Distribution Unit (where you checked all the fuses) is fitted?

Also, you said new light fitted as old was knackered? did the old one ever work in your ownership? (that is unclear). Does the one you took off light up if you apply 12V to the connection to it?type

I will take a photo tomorrow its a black thing, only had the shed 15 years. I did not know electroblock was a type so I am wrong. Thanks.

 

[antiqueman]

Be useful to confirm what is actually fitted?
A Swift Kontiki will not have an Electroblock, it will have a Sargent Electrical system. (maybe said Electroblock as a generic name but it is a specific product range of Schaudt and never found on British vans).
1998 is going to be a fairly basic Sargent System, but usaally there is a dedicated switch for it on Sargent systems but typically labeled Aux rather than Awning. On some Sargent systems, the wiring used for the Awning light (when looking at the wiring diagram) is not actually connected, so tracing the wiring using that method can be a red herring sometimes.
So my question would be what actual Power Distribution Unit (where you checked all the fuses) is fitted?

Also, you said new light fitted as old was knackered? did the old one ever work in your ownership? (that is unclear). Does the one you took off light up if you apply 12V to the connection to it?

photos

 

[r4dent]

The switch was broken on the old one but did work years ago, there is no voltage at the wiring, tested with multimeter.

So when it worked years ago there must have been 12v at the wiring, but it isn't there now.

Five possibilities (most likely first)
1) Blown fuse - How did you identify / test the fuse that you checked? Maybe worthwhile checking all fuses with multimeter in case you tested the wrong one.
2) Another switch in circuit - check and double check the control panel.
3) Different environment - something has changed from when it worked - e.g. interior lights were on
4) Wire broken or detached - check all joints that you can get at, preferably using multimeter
5) Multimeter problem - using exactly the same set up test the voltage of a known source (e.g. battery)

 

[wildebus]

So PMS 4 fitted (even predates the Sargent units!). Very dated indeed and obsolete - saying that as if the issue is within that unit, that circuit in there would need bypassing as unlikely to be a simple fix.

The switch was broken on the old one but did work years ago, there is no voltage at the wiring, tested with multimeter.

Ok, you say there is no voltage at the wiring? I am assuming you are checking using the two wires that come out of the hole in the wall to the awning light?
What I would do is check each wire individually ...
you can either check the voltages - put a probe on the +ve wire and the other probe not on the -ve wire, but find a known good ground/-ve and connect to that. Then repeat ... probe on the -ve and the other probe on a known good +12V connection.
Doing this will tell you primarily if you have a connected ground or not for a start. You could also check the continuity of the cable by putting into resistor mode and checking if the -ve is connected to a known good ground, and the same for the +ve to a known good +ve.

Running new cables can be a nightmare - might have to think outside the box a bit? is there any wiring inside a top cupboard that could be tapped into and a line ran through the wall and a new awning light fitted in a different location? or can you see and access the wiring from inside that goes to the light (maybe behind a facia panel above the door?).
Or maybe even fit a solar-powered exterior light that needs no seperate power connection?

 

[ricc]

Time to buy a torch or I've seen solar, wind up lanterns on ebay

 

[antiqueman]

So PMS 4 fitted (even predates the Sargent units!). Very dated indeed and obsolete - saying that as if the issue is within that unit, that circuit in there would need bypassing as unlikely to be a simple fix.


Ok, you say there is no voltage at the wiring? I am assuming you are checking using the two wires that come out of the hole in the wall to the awning light?
What I would do is check each wire individually ...
you can either check the voltages - put a probe on the +ve wire and the other probe not on the -ve wire, but find a known good ground/-ve and connect to that. Then repeat ... probe on the -ve and the other probe on a known good +12V connection.
Doing this will tell you primarily if you have a connected ground or not for a start. You could also check the continuity of the cable by putting into resistor mode and checking if the -ve is connected to a known good ground, and the same for the +ve to a known good +ve.

Running new cables can be a nightmare - might have to think outside the box a bit? is there any wiring inside a top cupboard that could be tapped into and a line ran through the wall and a new awning light fitted in a different location? or can you see and access the wiring from inside that goes to the light (maybe behind a facia panel above the door?).
Or maybe even fit a solar-powered exterior light that needs no seperate power connection?

all sorted now seems one of my connections to the supply wires was faulty. Thanks everyone for all the help.