Rust converters

hobenhobo

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Hi any bodywork experts out there?. going to repaint my vdub, used to be in the know years ago but things move on,going to use the roller method which i have researched. My main question is can anyone recommend a choice of materials for the job, most importantly the best rust treatment to use.
many thanks.
 
The tech in this field moves very fast, and although I used to build 1 off coach built cars years ago the knowedge i have is years out of date.
The best advise is to find a local firm that supplies the motor trade with paint, usually found in the back of a trading estate as they dont sell much to the public, tell them just what you want and they are usually delighted to show off their know how, even down to telling you trade secrets.
 
I've just done my 78 Bedford with Hammerite (hammered effect). Looks "unusual", but at least i should be safe from rust for a few years!

I didn't actually have much rust to contend with, just a few surface patches which i sanded, treated with Jenolite, and painted with red oxide primer.
 
I tried various rust proofers on some pre rusted panels in a salt laden damp atmosphere.(I live a few yards from the sea).
I had some good results with "Eureka Fluid Film" but that can't be painted over.The only paints I found to be of any real use were those containg a high proportion of zinc,the commercially available paints being much much heavier than those for sale to the public.
One thing I did notice is that any missed bits,scratches or damage and rust would set in very quickly with the cheaper 'treatments'.The zinc rich paints seem to offer a sort of 'healing' effect if damaged.
 
Rustoleum combicolour is reccommended for rolling onto VWs and is supposedly good for rust-proofing, but in my opinion the only way to get rust-free is to physically remove it before painting. Otherwise it'll just come back.
 
dulux

hobenhobo said:
Hi any bodywork experts out there?. going to repaint my vdub, used to be in the know years ago but things move on,going to use the roller method which i have researched. My main question is can anyone recommend a choice of materials for the job, most importantly the best rust treatment to use.
many thanks.
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hi young man rust eaters have the same effect as brushing lemon juice on rust, acid neutralise oxidation. you can not beat sandblast all rust out, etch prime, hybuild prime, refinish with a good quility 2pack product. OR if on a shoe string. You can get rust, sand blasted very cheap. Degrease and brush etch primer over repairs asap. feather repairs 120 production paper, degrease brush hybuild primer or similer over repairs. feather 320 wet and dry, with a block. Now key/rub the rest of remaining paint work, with a red scotchbrite over all areas to be painted. you can use a synthetic commercial paint, thin material a little with appropriate solvant, as always lots of thin coats is always best. you cut in any difficult areas with a brush. and do one panel at a time, from top to bottom. dont worry about bubbles, they come out. and always let paint flash off, or dry for 15 minutes between coates reduces runs. good luck decorating :)
 
Try some Penetrol on the rusted surface, then fill/paint over as normal. But as others have said the removal or replacement of rusted panels is the best way to go - and a lot of new VW panels are available fairly cheaply.

I'd also give a vote for the electronic rust "stoppers" that are now available. Once you've done the repairs fit a good quality unit to make sure that the rust stays away.
 
Hi, here's my two penneth for what its worth. Your previous advice on rust removal is vital. Why spend money and have to re-do the work again. As rust is a metal cancer, remove the rust or replace the section if poss.

But on the painting side. Some 40 odd years ago I spoke to my mates father who had made a dam good living re-painting coaches. He would repaint a coach in two days with a good gloss finish. As he had made enough to retire he told me his secret. Which was use only techeloid oil based paints, and mix the top coat with clear laquer. I think the mix was 50/50. This blended the brush marks out, and painting also did away with the need for masking. His competition used to take two weeks to paint their coaches, so he made a good profit. Rgd's Graham.
 
hi all, i recently finished the topcoat of paint that i have rollered onto my ldv,i used tekaloid!you can get any solid colour but no metallics.i've used this paint many times.as already said you can paint one panel at a time if time is short.i'm now in the process of putting graphics on then will airbrush pictures on.as for rust i either cut out an welded in new bits or wirebrushed using a drill till bodywork is shiny and all traces of rust are gone,then primered with appropriate primer for the tekaloid paint,a paintshop would advise.a small roller and tray from b&q will suffice and get a fresh pack of 10 gloss rollers also.from exp. change rollers every 5/6 mins max they start breaking up and makes a mess of paintwork.i will put pictures on hopefully over weekend.gud luk:)
 
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