Renault master jacking points.

nichodia

Guest
Hi there, hope somebody can give a bit of input on this one. Yesterday I got a flat..front passenger side..applied the jack to the jacking point, jacked the van up and then disaster, the jack went straight through the jacking point.
On inspection the jack point was rotten as a pear. So question is, is it repairable? Is it failable on the MOT? but more important will it effect the structural strength of the van? I have looked underneath and the rest of the chassis is sound.
Any thoughts or advise really welcome!
Nichodia
 
Hi there, hope somebody can give a bit of input on this one. Yesterday I got a flat..front passenger side..applied the jack to the jacking point, jacked the van up and then disaster, the jack went straight through the jacking point.
On inspection the jack point was rotten as a pear. So question is, is it repairable? Is it failable on the MOT? but more important will it effect the structural strength of the van? I have looked underneath and the rest of the chassis is sound.
Any thoughts or advise really welcome!
Nichodia

Firstly I would seriously doubt it is an MOT failure if the rest of the structure is as sound as you say.

I am not familiar with Renault so I cant comment whether it is repairable.

The jacking points on a lot of vehicles seem to be no more than a bit of tube welded to the chassis....the exposure to road detrius etc leaves them pretty vulnerable.

So on face value I wouldnt think the structural strength of your vehicle is compromised.

If you have a local garage you trust, perhaps they can have a look for you and effect a repair.

I cant remember who ...but someone on here is renault trained , I am sure they will offer good sound advice in terms of repair

Channa
 
Its common on the Master, I use a trolly jack and carry it in the van.
 
yes it's repairable it's finding someone to do it at a fair price very few garages do welding now,very few trained dealership mecanics can weld, it will be a old type back street garage (a bit like us):D if your near donny bring it round:eek:special wildcampers mates rates will service it at the sme time even:rolleyes:
 
Thanks everybody, It is a relief to know it is not structural, I have a trolley jack in the garage so will stick it in the van for now. I also have one of those air jacks that go on the exhaust so may try that out too (still unopened in the bag!).

Again many thanks
Nichodia
 
Have got a couple of these to do as they were MOT failures stating they could affect the structural integrity of the vehicle.

They are a massive construction fail considering the weight being lifted by such flimsy material - seemingly less than 1mm.

These have been repaired before but very much a bodge job. The glass fibre panel was a major pain to get off - the original repairer attempted, broke it and gave up thus making it difficult to get decent access to weld.
Have had to cut this one. Dunno whether there's a better way but open to suggestions?
 

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A van with that rot would be a massif fail here or held by the mot station to it was lifted away on a flatbed.
Now let me explain, first never jack any van/car on the body jacking points, no one you are lifting the body and not the wheel, two its week, 3 it will cost you in repairs.
Now proper way is lift on the suspension arms as you are lifting the wheel and not the body, carry a small trolley jack or bottle jack and always keep one axle stand on board, when lifted place the stand on the axle or arm inside of the jack, also remember to slacken the wheel studs befor you lift, reverse when sorted, hand tightyen drop van then tighten, carry a extension bar and socket to do so, a 3ft bar half drive should do, remember to carry a wheel chock and place under either front/back wheel to stop her rolling, stay safe always.
Final tip, carry a long flat tyre lever, place this under the axle of wheel thats off, then roll the replacement wheel over it and lift the bar to aline wheel to studs, stick a small bit of wood at the end of the bar so you can get your hand round it for the slight lift, handy for big heavy wheels.
If a six stud wheel alway go round missing one stud, 3 at a time torqing a bit on each, then go round the other odd 3 untill all half tight, then do the same again to fully tightened.
 
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Now proper way is lift on the suspension arms as you are lifting the wheel and not the body,
For those who don't know, you should never ever lift a vehicle by jacking up on the suspension arms, they are not designed to take those loads, and it's a common way of bending them. It might be acceptable to jack on the joint at either end of suspension arm, although I would only advise that if you have some idea of what you are doing.
 
For those who don't know, you should never ever lift a vehicle by jacking up on the suspension arms, they are not designed to take those loads, and it's a common way of bending them. It might be acceptable to jack on the joint at either end of suspension arm, although I would only advise that if you have some idea of what you are doing.
You jack under the ball joint and nout will bend, or if rear springs under the hanger brakets, almost 50 years in the trade and bent nothing yet.
Jacking on the body lifts it first which is daft and its very weak, jacking on ball joint or x member mount lifts the wheel.
axle in b.jpg
 
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