Removing Grease Nipple

biggirafe

Guest
I might have to remove a blocked grease nipple, I've already put a spanner on it and discovered its locked in tight. My question is, If I put a bigger tool on it to force it out how fragile are they and will it shear off?

Second question, if they shear off will a bolt extractor get it out?
 
I would try giving it a good overnight soaking with release oil such as plus gas or similar, then try to undo it with a ring spanner or socket, it should then come out, if it breaks off I would personally drill it out with slightly smaller drill bit coated in grease so metal swarf is removed with drill, then tap it out with the right size tap with grease on the threads& fit new nipple.

John.

Ps have you tried to poke the end of the nipple with some strong wire or simmilar as this usually frees them.
 
i had the same problem when i had to do my bleed nipples on the rear of van! i put plenty of wd40 on and left over night.
 
I might have to remove a blocked grease nipple, I've already put a spanner on it and discovered its locked in tight. My question is, If I put a bigger tool on it to force it out how fragile are they and will it shear off?

Second question, if they shear off will a bolt extractor get it out?

Hi,
In my experience grease nipples are given a gas type thread (ie tappered) so that they rely on being tight to remain pressure tight.
Grease_Fitting.jpg
Best to use a good well fitting ring or socket and give it a sharp tap with the heel of your hand to shock it loose.
Good luck,
 
Perhaps you could try warming it up a little to loosten hardened grease!.....Works on the Missus!
 
Nipple

..They snap off easy,take care,as you will make loads more work or an expensive strip down and garage repair (if you cant do it)
If you have kids clay,make a little 'pot' around it,and fill up with WD40 or similar,the longer you leave it the better,days being better than hours !A small ratchet and socket or a good ring spanner,and like said a tap with metal rather than your hand....If this doesn't do it the first time,if you have the room and its SAFE, use blowtorch or similar,try and get it red if possible,i have even put the mig welder on them or even welded a bigger nut to the top,of course throw it away for another..if using the welder method but the blowtorch should expand/contract the metal,crud or rust holding it. good luck.
While your at it,spray ALL OTHER NIPS and Adjustable nuts for next time,maybe stick a bit of grease over them after.
 
The grease nipple will be 1/8" BSP thread (possibly 1/4" BSP but I doubt it) which is a tapered thread and very fine.

Once it starts turning, it comes out very easily. If you have taken the flats off the hex head, use some Mole grips and fit them as tight as possible. Gently start putting pressure on them, to prevent them slipping and you should have no problems.
 
size counts ?

I may be wrong....but wouldn't it be metric ? and usually a 6,7 or 8 mm,as all newer vehicles use metric these days, inches and the like went out in the 70's ? maybe the sizes spoke of will fit but not correct ?someone correct me if i'm wrong ...
 
Hi barnybg,

The size of the hex head will almost certainly be metric on a vehicle but not in every case. You could use a metric spanner on any hex. An 11 mm spanner fits a lot of grease nipples but its not a metric size, its still the same old size. For the same reason, inch sizes are still common in piping sizes, although dual sizes are more common. They are all closely sized to Imperial sizes ( 1" = 25mm ).

After 40 odd years in engineering I have changed many a grease nipple.
 
Yes there bsp, british standard pipe a fine thread, much as before really, another good tip though is try to use good tight fitting in line ring spanner much better than a cranked one these keep the torsion in line and won't twist off so easily.
 
To loosen a taper thread strike it with a brass or copper hammer whilst turning with a spanner, the hammering slightly compresses the thread and reduces the torque needed to free it. Grease nipples shear off easily and the thread can be difficult to remove.

Hallii
 
I am getting worried here.

Biggirafe asked for info then has not posted since then.

I hope he is off to the Forest of Dean and not laid on the ground with a Kontiki on top of him. :eek:
 
I am getting worried here.

Biggirafe asked for info then has not posted since then.

I hope he is off to the Forest of Dean and not laid on the ground with a Kontiki on top of him. :eek:


I agree, I reckon the nipple business is all to do with the axle woes of barry earlier in the week, and Big G has decided upon a lubrication session.

I think they are in a car park, Spag bol consumed and a whisky session as we speak being consumed for purposes of quality control and medicinal benefit the temperature is sub 15 celsius.

A lubrication session of a different nature me thinks, a couple of newbies attending too....I think the aftermath post mortem will be interesting and entertaining.

Channa
 
Ah Channa and Maingate you know us so well. Here I am sat in the Forest of Dean, no Knontiki on my head, thanks for the concern tho. TBH it feels like the Kontiki has fallen on my head :)

Yes this was brought about by Barrys woes, Thanks to all your good advise, I will try giving the current nippple a good poking first to get it working in situ, if not a good soaking and then ring spanner followed by a small pair of grips. I'm sure it will come out and not need dilling (fingers crossed)

Now I need lots of coffee and a good breakfast, more on last night to follow later :)
 
Before attempting to remove nipple, which might or might not break off, is it worth going to a garage and getting them to put some grease in with a high pressure gun?

Must remember to grease my back axle
 
Hi shortcircuit,

To be honest, I would not use a high pressure grease gun as it is liable to damage any rubber seals that are fitted if you put in too much grease. A hand held grease gun is capable of more than enough pressure and you can feel when their is enough pressure.

Rodding a grease nipple with wire will damage it and it will have to come out then anyway. The end of the nipple has a small steel ball with a spring behind it, that is what will be damaged.

My advice is to remove the nipple, try to clear out as much of the plug of hard grease that is behind the nipple and fit a new one. The grease used is not just normal grease, if I can find out the type, I will post it.
 
Hi all

Well I got them both out using a small pair of mole grips and plenty of 3 in 1. no problem nothing broken.
Both were blocked and rusted up. I drove a 'dart' in from the back and pushed the ball bearings out, but thats ok I needed to replace them both by the time I had them out anyway. I don't think they had been used in the last 10 years.

Anyway I refitted them and stuck me grease gun on them and pumped a tube into each side. Goes in easy by hand so I'm not sure why ALCO recommend a machine maybe they are trying ensure they get the service contract ;)

Just need to replace the nipples with a couple of new ones now, I'm going to fit 90 degree angle nipples as they are in behind the waste tank and a pain to get the gun onto.

Thank as always to everones input :)

(Why does the repeated use of the word 'nipple' make grown men titter so)
 
(Why does the repeated use of the word 'nipple' make grown men titter so)
__________________
Mark n Nicole

Nowt like a good TITTER.

John.
 
I might have to remove a blocked grease nipple, I've already put a spanner on it and discovered its locked in tight.

Second question, if they shear off will a bolt extractor get it out?

lack of use M8 :rolleyes:.... well.. that what she told me last night:p
.. while you were under the table lookin for yer extractor.:eek:

regards :D
aj
 
Gig rin farm, Red kite centre, T.H.S all of August for just £6.%0.......


...............

........:confused: Im off thread again aint I:eek:
 

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