Our camper. Poppy.

mazolaman

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Our camper.





Hi All,
I thought I'd stick a few piccies up of our 350 petrol\lpg...which is currently undergoing expensive repairs in Estonia....bugger.
While we're thoroughly pissed off with this hitch, we're having a bloody good time so far, and hope to be on the road again soon.
You can check out the places we've been so far, ie..Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Estonia...http://holidayjollity.wordpress.com/





Re: Our camper.

Postby kev sealby » Tue Aug 21, 2012 3:29 pm
I should add...

Insulated with rockwool.
Mdf boarded.
Trimmed with automotive trim from The automobile trimmings co.
Furniture made from bendy mdf, so no sharp corners, veneered with walnut veneer.
Varta leisure battery.
All fridges/oven/hob/sink/toilet etc from CAK tanks.
Corian for worktops.
All done by me, in a hurry....
 
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I just had a good read of your blog - great fun :) Hope you escape soon, although it sounds like you're enjoying Estonia. Poppy is lovely by the way and I really like the little poppy/ladybird design. Can't believe you've got Corian worktops! Enjoy the rest of your trip.
 
Nice van :) sorry to read about your troubles though.

Finding the stuff about Estonia interesting as we are heading there in a few weeks
(from Finland).

Struggling to leave Norway though.
 
Great pics mazolaman.
Can you tell me how you reinforced the door panel to carry the spare wheel? I want to do this to make room under the van for a waste water storage tank but have been advised that the door skin will not take the weight and will tear. You have obviouly got around this problem.

Jim
 
It's a bugger when things go wrong but you seem to be keeping your chin up.
Enjoy the rest of your trip.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, nice to hear feedback as we sit and wait...

Minisorella, we wanted to make it look less like a white van, so we got those transfers from Hippymotors.co.uk, they sell all sorts of transfers, that are easy to put on. The corian isn't too expensive, about 100 quid a sheet, 6mm thick, so strong and light. Glad you like the blog!

Bob, Estonia is a great country, and a pleasant drop in cost from Scandinavia, I hope you enjoy it. Norway is tough to beat though.

James.
First, make steel plate with bolts/threaded bar welded to suit wheel holes. This plate has four holes for mounting, one in each corner.
Second, when you remove door card from rear door, you will see inside outer rim of door is folded tin, fix either a bit of ply, or I used two bits of 2x1
to this rim with steel brackets and self tappers. Do not fix these timbers to the outer tin.
third, mark and drill holes through rear door, that also go through fixed timber.
fourth, bolt and silicone plate through exterior tin and timber/ply, with copper tube spacers between tin and timber, to prevent the door buckling when tightening fixing bolts.
fifth, tighten the nuts on the inside face of the door, use nylock locking nuts, so they won't come out.
as a precaution, I also managed to drill a hole through one of the threaded bars, to put a padlock through, to prevent casual theft.

Cheers to everyone, we should be on the road again soon...........touch wood.
 
mazolaman said:
Thanks for the replies everyone, nice to hear feedback as we sit and wait...

Minisorella, we wanted to make it look less like a white van, so we got those transfers from Hippymotors.co.uk, they sell all sorts of transfers, that are easy to put on. The corian isn't too expensive, about 100 quid a sheet, 6mm thick, so strong and light. Glad you like the blog!

Bob, Estonia is a great country, and a pleasant drop in cost from Scandinavia, I hope you enjoy it. Norway is tough to beat though.

James.
First, make steel plate with bolts/threaded bar welded to suit wheel holes. This plate has four holes for mounting, one in each corner.
Second, when you remove door card from rear door, you will see inside outer rim of door is folded tin, fix either a bit of ply, or I used two bits of 2x1
to this rim with steel brackets and self tappers. Do not fix these timbers to the outer tin.
third, mark and drill holes through rear door, that also go through fixed timber.
fourth, bolt and silicone plate through exterior tin and timber/ply, with copper tube spacers between tin and timber, to prevent the door buckling when tightening fixing bolts.
fifth, tighten the nuts on the inside face of the door, use nylock locking nuts, so they won't come out.
as a precaution, I also managed to drill a hole through one of the threaded bars, to put a padlock through, to prevent casual theft.

Cheers to everyone, we should be on the road again soon...........touch wood.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Mazolaman. Really helpful
 
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