MOT Failed :-(

[888dee]

not that bad really, lot's of fiddly things which will take time...

-Windscreen, chip and star mark, Already been on to autoglass, insurance will take care of that
-Horn not working, was on the way there and is now
-OSF inner wing rust, a bit harsh as it's on the end of the panel but no biggee, sort that myself
-both headlamps need adjusted
-NSR bumper end insecure and dangerous
-OSF bumper end insecure and dangerous
-NS and OS track rod ends have play, easy to fix and £7 a side
-OSF mechanical brake component has restricted movement, what the??? surely it either works or it doesn't?
-NSF wheel bearing excessive play, confused by this as it was replaced about 7-800 miles ago, I did think at the time there was a bit of play but was assured by a Peugeot tech this was normal... not sure how I can sort this as there is a steel sleeve between the taper bearings to prevent them being crushed

wheel bearing is the only thing causing me concern really

 

[Deleted member 4053]

mot

could have been worse
as you say a fair amount of Diy
should sort it out

weez
Tony

 

[The Grand Wanderer]

not that bad really, lot's of fiddly things which will take time...

-Windscreen, chip and star mark, Already been on to autoglass, insurance will take care of that
-Horn not working, was on the way there and is now
-OSF inner wing rust, a bit harsh as it's on the end of the panel but no biggee, sort that myself
-both headlamps need adjusted
-NSR bumper end insecure and dangerous
-OSF bumper end insecure and dangerous
-NS and OS track rod ends have play, easy to fix and £7 a side
-OSF mechanical brake component has restricted movement, what the??? surely it either works or it doesn't?
-NSF wheel bearing excessive play, confused by this as it was replaced about 7-800 miles ago, I did think at the time there was a bit of play but was assured by a Peugeot tech this was normal... not sure how I can sort this as there is a steel sleeve between the taper bearings to prevent them being crushed

wheel bearing is the only thing causing me concern really

No problem just give the nut holding the bearing in place 1/8 of a turn just to take the slack out then mot and if you want undo same nut after.

 

[888dee]

GW, from what I remember when I fitted it I horsed it up with a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a scaffold pole on the bar, it wasn't gonna tighten any more

 

[Boxerman]

GW, from what I remember when I fitted it I horsed it up with a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a scaffold pole on the bar, it wasn't gonna tighten any more

Then perhaps you overtightened it which has caused premature wear? If they are a similar setup to the Boxer then I believe there should be a little free play, can't say offhand how much though

I had the same problem with the horn, sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. Turned out to be the relay.

Rgds
Frank

 

[biggirafe]

GW, from what I remember when I fitted it I horsed it up with a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a scaffold pole on the bar, it wasn't gonna tighten any more

Eh, er should bearings only be done up 'finger tight'

 

[maingate]

All taper bearings should be tightened fully then backed off slightly (very slightly). The amount backed off will vary, depending on the size of the bearing.

Speaking to a mechanic might be useful to determine how much is required.

 

[Coolasluck]

Torque wrench springs to mind.

 

[Boxerman]

IF the setup is the same as the Boxer, the free play is determined by the thickness of the spacer between the inner and outer races. The free play on the Boxer is 0.002 to 0.10mm measured with a dial gauge on the bearing outer race, by the time the wheel is on, this freeplay will be magnified quite a bit.

As maingate says, it would be worthwhile having a mechanic give his opinion. Changing wheel bearings on a FWD vehicle is not as easy as on a RWD one.

Rgds
Frank

 

[Boxerman]

Torque wrench springs to mind.

Quoting Boxer figures again 340 lb/ft - quite tight

Frank

 

[biggirafe]

All taper bearings should be tightened fully then backed off slightly (very slightly). The amount backed off will vary, depending on the size of the bearing.

Speaking to a mechanic might be useful to determine how much is required.

Ah right, I vaguely remember tightening them up with a spanner then undoing the nut and tightening it back with just fingers to allow the required slack. I guess things are a bit more precise these days

 

[maingate]

After giving the matter a bit of thought (I am retired you know), what it could be is that the shaft that the bearing sits on could be a bit worn. Even though the bearing was correctly fitted, there could be a bit of play coming from the shaft.

If a mechanic was paid to do the job and just stuck a new bearing on a worn shaft, then he deserves a P45 stuck in his hand.

 

[888dee]

bearing was fitted by myself and a good friend of mine who is a mechanic using his press to put it back together...

I've been told hub nut should be FT, I will check the correct value, I'm going to do the rest of the repairs 1st then figure this out.

 

[lenny]

My MOT in May 2008 came with an advisory notice stating excess wear on all 4 wheel bearings, checked these out and any play was minimal.
I checked the wheels for play prior to the 2009 MOT, once again very little play but I tightened them up anyway and the van passed the test without advisories.
I just wonder if the testing station was looking for work ,thinking this was a job i could,nt tackle myself

 

[888dee]

checked, hub nut is 360lb/ft as said, or as I put it FT

 

[Channa]

From what I can glean, the bearings are tightened up. and then released slightly as others have suggested..( I suspect the reasoning is the bearing expands with frictional heat.

What so far has been missed and seems to be good practise ...is the vehicle is run a couple of miles and then the bearing is re tightened.

Slightly OT I once had a truck that the tyre was changed and the tyre companies stuck stickers everywhere that it had to be returned to be re torqued so perhaps a bit of method in my madness

Channa

 

[888dee]

well this wheel bearing has turned into a right game...

on inspection there has been a failure in the roller carrier, not sure exactly what that is called, and it has actually cracked, from what we can gather and looking at one of the work shop manuals there are some adjusting shims missing.

starting from the back there should be, bearing, cup, spacer tube, cup, shims, bearing, washer, hub nut.

appears the lack of adjusting shims has left a small gap between the inner face of the outer bearing meaning it's not properly supported and also the rollers were forced onto the shoulder of the carrier not allowing them to float properly.

What I and my mech, still don't understand is how we are getting play, we both reckon it's because the spacer tube is to long holding the bearings to far apart but his boss is convinced it's because there isn't enough spacing, all very confusing....

cheerfully all of the other repairs are done although we need to get a move on as I reckon over the next few weeks is the best time to be advertising the old girl.

 

[888dee]

well what a game that turned out to be!

finally obtained the hallowed piece of green paper

now to set about making it lovely for it's next owner which to be fair shouldn't take to much

 

[Boxerman]

well this wheel bearing has turned into a right game...

on inspection there has been a failure in the roller carrier, not sure exactly what that is called, and it has actually cracked, from what we can gather and looking at one of the work shop manuals there are some adjusting shims missing.

starting from the back there should be, bearing, cup, spacer tube, cup, shims, bearing, washer, hub nut.

appears the lack of adjusting shims has left a small gap between the inner face of the outer bearing meaning it's not properly supported and also the rollers were forced onto the shoulder of the carrier not allowing them to float properly.

What I and my mech, still don't understand is how we are getting play, we both reckon it's because the spacer tube is to long holding the bearings to far apart but his boss is convinced it's because there isn't enough spacing, all very confusing....

Without the spacer, when you "horsed it up" you probably distorted the cage enough to cause the rollers to run slightly askew causing premature wear and eventually a cracked cage?

Frank

 

[888dee]

long and short of it was the spacer was to long for the replacement bearing and the correct torque setting is pretty damn tight damaging the carrier.

anyway once we figured that out it was all good, well kind of, popped down to the engineers had the spacer shortened which then allowed it to be shimmed to adjust the play, quite convoluted really but all came good in the end.