Hymer driver door - electric window kaput +drivers door inner skin removal

[Deleted member 62288]

Vehicle is a Mercedes Hymer B680 LHD 2004

Issue is inoperable electric window.

Secondary issue is removal of drivers door inner panel.

I've been having intermittent issues with the operation of the driver's door electric window, to gain access to the window motor and wiring loom I need to remove the inner door skin.

Has anyone got any advice on how this panel can be removed ?

Many Thanks, james

Edit: a circuit diagram for the switch & motor would be very useful if anyone can help please ?

 

[molly 2]

Could be a broken wire caused by opening and closing the door ,check cables between A post and door frame .

 

[Deleted member 62288]

Could be a broken wire caused by opening and closing the door ,check cables between A post and door frame .

Thanks Molly, that is exactly what I am trying to do, 'cept that the cables disappear behind the door skin, where the motor also lurks.

To properly buzz the cables, I need to get at each end so the inner door skin needs to come off.

james

 

[QFour]

Have a look on YouTube lots of videos. You just need the Mercedes base model number / type

..

 

[Deleted member 62288]

Have a look on YouTube lots of videos. You just need the Mercedes base model number / type

..

Thanks for the suggestion, but it's a Hymer door not the base Sprinter 416 door.

 

[QFour]

We have a Laika A Class part of the Hymer Groupe. Our door panels parts are held on with Velcro and double sided sticky tape that has a very thin layer of sponge in between. When I removed the door panels looking for a rattle I had to renew the sticky tape as it just pulls apart. Certainly good fun trying to work out how they build them in the first place. Good luck

 

[The laird]

Does this help?

 

[Deleted member 62288]

Does this help?View attachment 67789

Many Thanks, I'd read some of that page earlier, but I'm not a member there (afaic remember) so I can't see the pictures. Do you have them please ?

Sikaflex ! Oh Joy.... **** Beam me up Scotty...


I don't have a choice, it's an MOT failure as it is, so one way or another the moulded plastic inner skin has to come off so I can get to the motor and cable loom.

I'm tempted to cut a panel out of the centre section, with a Dremmel and make up a new panel to cover the hole...

Winter is coming and I gotta get off the SORN and dip my toes in The Med, toot sweet.

james

 

[The laird]

Many Thanks, I'd read some of that page earlier, but I'm not a member there (afaic remember) so I can't see the pictures. Do you have them please ?

Sikaflex ! Oh Joy.... **** Beam me up Scotty...


I don't have a choice, it's an MOT failure as it is, so one way or another the moulded plastic inner skin has to come off so I can get to the motor and cable loom.

Winter is coming and I gotta get off the SORN and dip my toes in The Med, toot sweet.

james

Couldn’t find photos soz

 

[trevskoda]

Many Thanks, I'd read some of that page earlier, but I'm not a member there (afaic remember) so I can't see the pictures. Do you have them please ?

Sikaflex ! Oh Joy.... **** Beam me up Scotty...


I don't have a choice, it's an MOT failure as it is, so one way or another the moulded plastic inner skin has to come off so I can get to the motor and cable loom.

Winter is coming and I gotta get off the SORN and dip my toes in The Med, toot sweet.

james

Never look at windows here on mot,only w/shield for scratces.
Some panels are held on with plastic clips which a forked lever tool can be bought on ebay to pop them out,the odd one will break which will not matter.

 

[The laird]

Never look at windows here on mot,only w/shield for scratces.
Some panels are held on with plastic clips which a forked lever tool can be bought on ebay to pop them out,the odd one will break which will not matter.

Trim remover trev ,speak with forked togue

 

[trevskoda]

Trim removers ebay from about £7 ,i made my one with a old spoon handle with a slot cut in it,cheap skate me.:lol-053:

 

[The laird]

Trim removers ebay from about £7 ,i made my one with a old spoon handle with a slot cut in it,cheap skate me.:lol-053:

Hey if it works so be it

 

[Tonybvi]

Many Thanks, I'd read some of that page earlier, but I'm not a member there (afaic remember) so I can't see the pictures. Do you have them please ?

Sikaflex ! Oh Joy.... **** Beam me up Scotty...


I don't have a choice, it's an MOT failure as it is, so one way or another the moulded plastic inner skin has to come off so I can get to the motor and cable loom.

I'm tempted to cut a panel out of the centre section, with a Dremmel and make up a new panel to cover the hole...

Winter is coming and I gotta get off the SORN and dip my toes in The Med, toot sweet.

james

My Mercedes basedFrankia A class had an inoperable electric drivers window for over 3 years - after a while I got used to it so forgot about it! However it passed every MOT until I sold it last year with the window not opening. Unless they have changed the rules I don’t see why it should be an MOT failure.
Tony

 

[Deleted member 62288]

My Mercedes basedFrankia A class had an inoperable electric drivers window for over 3 years - after a while I got used to it so forgot about it! However it passed every MOT until I sold it last year with the window not opening. Unless they have changed the rules I don’t see why it should be an MOT failure.
Tony

It may not be an MOT failure, but I really want the window to open/close for many reasons. I do like to drive with the window partly open, when the weather allows.

I've had a Fiat fail an MOT because the rear passenger door lock was inoperable, A jeep failed as the TPM light was (is still) on - as a previous owner had removed all the sensors from each wheel so the system defaulted to "Check TPM", luckily after I moaned, it appears not to apply to my year (07).

Starting to think that a Dremmel Attack is needed, I can cover the hole with a cut out panel of hardboard with a complimentary fabric stretched over it.

 

[Val54]

It may not be an MOT failure, but I really want the window to open/close for many reasons. I do like to drive with the window partly open, when the weather allows.

I've had a Fiat fail an MOT because the rear passenger door lock was inoperable, A jeep failed as the TPM light was (is still) on - as a previous owner had removed all the sensors from each wheel so the system defaulted to "Check TPM", luckily after I moaned, it appears not to apply to my year (07).

Starting to think that a Dremmel Attack is needed, I can cover the hole with a cut out panel of hardboard with a complimentary fabric stretched over it.

If you decide to go down the “cutout” route, post a pic of your door liner fabric, someone on here might just have an off cut. We used to buy the odd metre of Hymer fabric from Madison’s for odd jobs and upgrades.
Dave

 

[Chris356]

Have you checked if there is power at the window switch ?

 

[trevskoda]

I have no experience of it myself, but I have discussed this very subject with an ex-Hymer engineer. He told me that it is a bit of a swine getting the door inner panel off without cracking it, but it can be done.

I think he referred to sliding a sharp knife into the join, but I may be misremembering that detail.

Given that some of the jobs he described as "straightforward" were hard enough, I was very glad not to have to prise my door apart.

If you can check that it isn't a power issue or a switch problem first, I'd suggest that.

A two inch stiff paint scraper will work to.

 

[trevskoda]

Every car i have had i remove all door panels to get waxol in there,its a must do job.

 

[Deleted member 62288]

progress

After a lot of faffing with the inner door moulding, I was able to pries it out far enough to gain access to the inner gubbins of the electric window innards.

I was able to test the motor operation up/down, by by-passing the switch with raw 12v. Pleasantly surprised (and greatly relieved) that the window motor is operating just fine. Buzzed the cable in the loom and all is well. The failure point is the switch.

Testing the switch caused me a great deal of puzzlement, it appears to be a fairly common 2PDT rocker, centre off, 2 up or 2 down, but it is actually better described as a 2p polarity reverse switch, which I didn't realise. It has 2 +12v cables, one of which is from the dash lights, as it is an illuminated switch.

A previous owner had commoned them up so that the switch was illuminated 24/7, this is one of the reasons that I was seeing a small but persistent drain off the engine battery.

I'll be running a new wire from the dash lights circuit so that the switch only lights up when the vehicle lights are on, as it is supposed to be.

Here's a picture of the front:



So I spent some hours trawling the internet until I tracked down some technical data.

Here is a circuit where a pair of these switches are used in some cars - drivers window plus passenger window:



Clarity at last.

Luckily, I ordered a replacement last week from Brownhills, only £20, but no stock, it's on it's way from Hymer in Germany.

I looked around in case I could locate a supplier with stock for next day delivery, but no luck.
I did find a UK dealer who was offering 14 day delivery with a price of around £100 plus shipping ! one for the blacklist.

The re-assembly wasn't as difficult as I was expecting, I've left the switch connector hanging out of the switch "hole" pending delivery sometime next week.

Result for £20.

james