kellyjohn
Guest
hi all can anyone help re insulating water over winter i plan on using mh and wondered if anyone could suggest ways to insulate water tank etc as prob aware am new to site and mh cheers john
Bigpeetee
Guest
Depends on where it is and how accessible it is.
If readily accessible, clad in Kingspan or similar insulated board. Pref lifting the tank out and placing some on the floor under the tank first. Cover all sides and where there are air gaps fill with expanding gun foam.
Alternatively, spray expanding foam all around the tank, not too much because as it says, it expands. If you get too much in an enclosed place, it can expand and buckle panels around it.
Be careful as it sticks to anything. If you leave a blob somewhere where it shouldn't be, leave it to set then scrape off.
Acetone dissolves the uncured foam, but can also dissolve other things such as plastic on panels trim etc.
You can also clad external grey water tanks with kingspan, the expanding foam is great for sticking it on, in this instance, use the foam for attaching dry lining boards (plaster board) as it doesn't expand too much and sets quickly.
A lick of paint ( water based) and you'll never know it was there. Polyurethane foam as used in kingspan or gun foam is not UV stable so the paint will protect it. If you used external wall paint, it's water proof and UV stable.
PS some caravan manufacturers are now using SIPS (structural Insullated panels) for the floor, it's a sandwich of OSB3 (Water resistant Sterling Board) and a polyurethane core. Amazing insulation properties, I've built several houses using it.
If readily accessible, clad in Kingspan or similar insulated board. Pref lifting the tank out and placing some on the floor under the tank first. Cover all sides and where there are air gaps fill with expanding gun foam.
Alternatively, spray expanding foam all around the tank, not too much because as it says, it expands. If you get too much in an enclosed place, it can expand and buckle panels around it.
Be careful as it sticks to anything. If you leave a blob somewhere where it shouldn't be, leave it to set then scrape off.
Acetone dissolves the uncured foam, but can also dissolve other things such as plastic on panels trim etc.
You can also clad external grey water tanks with kingspan, the expanding foam is great for sticking it on, in this instance, use the foam for attaching dry lining boards (plaster board) as it doesn't expand too much and sets quickly.
A lick of paint ( water based) and you'll never know it was there. Polyurethane foam as used in kingspan or gun foam is not UV stable so the paint will protect it. If you used external wall paint, it's water proof and UV stable.
PS some caravan manufacturers are now using SIPS (structural Insullated panels) for the floor, it's a sandwich of OSB3 (Water resistant Sterling Board) and a polyurethane core. Amazing insulation properties, I've built several houses using it.
kellyjohn
Guest
thanks pete some good ideas there that i hadnot thought of a new challenge for me cheers john:cheers:
kimbowbill
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,hi all can anyone help re insulating water over winter i plan on using mh and wondered if anyone could suggest ways to insulate water tank etc as prob aware am new to site and mh cheers john
I was in Scotland last year and it was -20 in some parts, i dint have a problem with freezing water cos the van was in use so i'm a bit confused
kellyjohn
Guest
i presumed if van was stationary for a few nights and temp below freezing that there could be a problem with water freezing as stated new to all this so any helpfull advise and suggestion appreciated cheers john
maingate
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Welcome to the forum John.
If your fresh water tank is on board the van, try to ensure some heat gets to it.
ie: If it is in a cupboard, keep the door ajar. I used to hang my towel over the cupboard door.
Most waste water tanks are underslung and therefore vulnerable. Leave the drain valve permanently open and put a bucket under it. If the bucket freezes up, it is easily thawed out. If the waste pipe freezes up, you have a problem.
If you are on hookup in winter, use a small (1 Kw or 2 Kw) fan heater. Warm air moving around the van is better than radiated heat. I used to use mine in Winter for work and had no real problems.
If your fresh water tank is on board the van, try to ensure some heat gets to it.
ie: If it is in a cupboard, keep the door ajar. I used to hang my towel over the cupboard door.
Most waste water tanks are underslung and therefore vulnerable. Leave the drain valve permanently open and put a bucket under it. If the bucket freezes up, it is easily thawed out. If the waste pipe freezes up, you have a problem.
If you are on hookup in winter, use a small (1 Kw or 2 Kw) fan heater. Warm air moving around the van is better than radiated heat. I used to use mine in Winter for work and had no real problems.
Tbear
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Hi Kellyjohn,
Dont know where your tank is but if its exposed to elements it might be worth spendind a few quid on a 5 gallon plastic tank and keeping it inside. We have a 2 gallon even in summer which we fill from trusted sourses as we can never be sure of the quality when filling main tank from some farm or village taps. As Maingate says use the bucket for waste water.
Richard
Dont know where your tank is but if its exposed to elements it might be worth spendind a few quid on a 5 gallon plastic tank and keeping it inside. We have a 2 gallon even in summer which we fill from trusted sourses as we can never be sure of the quality when filling main tank from some farm or village taps. As Maingate says use the bucket for waste water.
Richard
kellyjohn
Guest
hi thanks for replys from what i can see the main water tank is under the seating in dining area will take on board all comments and good ideas re waste water didnt even think of that ive alot too learn which is exciting cheers john
Deleted member 3011
Guest
Insulating an external tank just delays the inevitable unless you can provide some sort of external heating. Pipes are particularly vulnerable even when insulated, especially if nights are well below freezing and the days are chilly because the sun never gets to the tanks anyway. Grey tanks are best dealt with by keeping them empty with the drain valve open and a bucket underneath. Freshwater tanks inside are usually OK provided the heater is going, although as others have said, you need to keep cupboards open at night to allow the heat to get in, especially if there are pipes which touch uninsulated parts of the wall - steel bits that go through the wall or floor, or fibreglass wheel arches and the like. You could also - if you have a blown air heating system - add some skinny ducts and direct the air around tanks and into underfloor spaces.
If you are going to be parked up for a while, it would pay to set up some sort of a skirt around the vehicle to stop the wind blowing underneath. You can buy external or internal elements for tanks and heat trace for pipes but these aren't really useful unless you are on hookups or have the engine running.
PS if you are using Butane, unless your gas locker is heated a bit, you may find you have no gas when the weather is below zero. Use propane to save hassles.
If your question relates to what to do in between winter trips, you only have two real choices
First is to have it on EHU and run a thermostatically controlled heater to stop everything from freezing - and even that may not stop tanks or pipes from freezing. With no heating and temperatures below freezing, everything WILL freeze regardless of insulation
Second is to set up the pipework so it can be easily drained in between trips - and don't forget the water heater
and battery.
If you are going to be parked up for a while, it would pay to set up some sort of a skirt around the vehicle to stop the wind blowing underneath. You can buy external or internal elements for tanks and heat trace for pipes but these aren't really useful unless you are on hookups or have the engine running.
PS if you are using Butane, unless your gas locker is heated a bit, you may find you have no gas when the weather is below zero. Use propane to save hassles.
If your question relates to what to do in between winter trips, you only have two real choices
First is to have it on EHU and run a thermostatically controlled heater to stop everything from freezing - and even that may not stop tanks or pipes from freezing. With no heating and temperatures below freezing, everything WILL freeze regardless of insulation
Second is to set up the pipework so it can be easily drained in between trips - and don't forget the water heater
and battery.
Last edited by a moderator:
rienza
Guest
In our experience with the best will in the world it's difficult to stop the freezing in a bad Winter. Even if you lag the tanks or fit heaters it's the pipes that feed them that freeze.
We were up in the Highlands last Winter on a part season pitch but it was so cold everything froze and no chance of things thawing so we came home. As it happened the frost went on for weeks. Trouble is the tanks can become a huge block of ice very quickly when caught unawares.
Agree with everything Tony Lee says.
Having said all that Winter is our favourite time for touring. If it's not freezing.
We were up in the Highlands last Winter on a part season pitch but it was so cold everything froze and no chance of things thawing so we came home. As it happened the frost went on for weeks. Trouble is the tanks can become a huge block of ice very quickly when caught unawares.
Agree with everything Tony Lee says.
Having said all that Winter is our favourite time for touring. If it's not freezing.