Having a dash cam could invalidate your insurance

Would be interested to learn if this has ever happened in practice.
To invalidate a claim the insurer would need to prove that the fitting of the dash cam had a material affect on the claim occurring.
I too would be interested to find out whether this has happened other than in the imagination of some journalist. The crazy thing is that some seemingly innocuous changes can cause issues. Perhaps a bit more than a hard-wired dashcam, but I bought a Citroen Dispatch in 2001 to use as a mobile office. I carpet lined the interior and fitted a removable desk. Most importantly, I got a VSR and auxiliary battery complete with a panel of three 12v sockets and a voltmeter professionally fitted. That was enough for several insurance companies to decline my business! They weren't even persuaded by photos and a copy of the invoice from the company that fitted the auxiliary system! Eventually, Adrian Flux came up with a suitable underwriter -- but for a while it seemed that I'd got a business vehicle that couldn't be used on the roads -- for something as simple as a system designed to ensure I wouldn't drain the cranking battery while working on site...
 
I installed both my dash cams but they are not connected to the battery. They are connected to switched outputs within the vehicle fuse box using a piggy back connector.
The dash cams only work when the engine is running, or the ignition is turned on.
Insurance companies should be encouraging folks to fit Dash Cams, this article refers to dash cams connected directly to your vehicle battery, why anyone would do this eludes me. If you want a permanent connection, there are plenty within the vehicle fuse box.
 
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I have just contacted AIB and they say you should class this as a modification, but that it does not affect your premium, and would be very unlikely to affect a claim. However they are informing both of my insurers for the van and the car, and I have asked for an email to confirm that I have declared fitting the dash cams.
 
I have just contacted AIB and they say you should class this as a modification, but that it does not affect your premium, and would be very unlikely to affect a claim. However they are informing both of my insurers for the van and the car, and I have asked for an email to confirm that I have declared fitting the dash cams.

I've just done the same Bill. At the same time I informed them that I have renewed the Leisure Battery/Solar system for a more expensive setup.

They were very helpful and said neither was a problem and they would make a note of it.
 
I installed both my dash cams but they are not connected to the battery. They are connected to switched outputs within the vehicle fuse box using a piggy back connector.
The dash cams only work when the engine is running, or the ignition is turned on.
Insurance companies should be encouraging folks to fit Dash Cams, this article refers to dash cams connected directly to your vehicle battery, why anyone would do this eludes me. If you want a permanent connection, there are plenty within the vehicle fuse box.

Mine does work when the engine is not running and ignition is off Bill. I think it works on a motion sensor so if somebody approaches the vehicle whilst it is unattended it starts filming. It was fitted by Halfords.
 
Mine does work when the engine is not running and ignition is off Bill. I think it works on a motion sensor so if somebody approaches the vehicle whilst it is unattended it starts filming. It was fitted by Halfords.
They must have connected to an a constantly live output in your fuse box Rob, and the sensor switches it on and off through a relay. Mine don’t have movement sensors, so if connected to the same type of output would be recording constantly.

For anyone considering this it’s important to note you require a 5v transformer. Connecting a dash cam straight to 12v supply will damage it. Nextbase do connection kits which include the transformer.
 
They must have connected to an a constantly live output in your fuse box Rob, and the sensor switches it on and off through a relay. Mine don’t have movement sensors, so if connected to the same type of output would be recording constantly.

For anyone considering this it’s important to note you require a 5v transformer. Connecting a dash cam straight to 12v supply will damage it. Nextbase do connection kits which include the transformer.
Most Dashcams have either an internal battery or a capacitor to provide power when the wired connection is not live, so it is quite possible Robs IS wired to the ignition and the internal battery/capacitor will provide enough power to deal with a certain amount of use on motion-detection activition.

Personally I hate big lumpy plugs in 12V sockets and always wire hidden sockets for things like Dashcams, Sat Navs and Phones, and typically piggyback onto the 12V Accessory socket wiring.
 
They must have connected to an a constantly live output in your fuse box Rob, and the sensor switches it on and off through a relay. Mine don’t have movement sensors, so if connected to the same type of output would be recording constantly.

For anyone considering this it’s important to note you require a 5v transformer. Connecting a dash cam straight to 12v supply will damage it. Nextbase do connection kits which include the transformer.
Save you money, i have a string of these on the dash for cam gps satalite speedo and ph charging.
usb socket.png
van front.png
 
Save you money, i have a string of these on the dash for cam gps satalite speedo and ph charging.View attachment 143354View attachment 143355
To much cable for me Trev, you don't see any cables in my installations.
You can buy a hard wiring kit for £6.99 on eBay.


Just seen another for £5.99.
 
Personally I hate big lumpy plugs in 12V sockets and always wire hidden sockets for things like Dashcams, Sat Navs and Phones, and typically piggyback onto the 12V Accessory socket wiring.
Which meens you cannot disconnect fast or change should there be a problem, and i can remove goodies and take with me or hide when parked up.
 
To much cable for me Trev, you don't see any cables in my installations.
You can buy a hard wiring kit for £6.99 on eBay.


Just seen another for £5.99.
Not hideable from prying eyes.
 
Not hideable from prying eyes.

Which meens you cannot disconnect fast or change should there be a problem, and i can remove goodies and take with me or hide when parked up.


Trev if I wired up your sat nav, you would see nothing but the sat nav, and the last 2-3 inches of cable. The transformer sits inside the fuse box compartment out of site. Plugging them into a 12v plug is messy.
Also as for disconnecting quickly all I have to do is either unplug the dash cam cable from the dash cam, or the fuse from the fuse box. It would take no time if I wanted to do either.
 
Trev if I wired up your sat nav, you would see nothing but the sat nav, and the last 2-3 inches of cable. The transformer sits inside the fuse box compartment out of site. Plugging them into a 12v plug is messy.
Also as for disconnecting quickly all I have to do is either unplug the dash cam cable from the dash cam, or the fuse from the fuse box. It would take no time if I wanted to do either.
I like my plugs as i can swith of or use for other things like charging kids phones laptops or tablets, i have them on the dash and above side seats plus above beds down the back of the van, but to each there own as no sys is right or wrong, all depends on requirements.
 
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