Gas hob installation

jp11

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I'm fitting a gas hob to my new build. It's at the sliding door and the cylinder and metal gas box will be directly beneath it (accessed via the sliding door). There'll be no other gas appliances used.
I don't particularly want to use a bulkhead regulator, so would it be OK to use a 907 Campingaz cylinder with bottle-top regulator?
Also, is it necessary to use a copper pipe for the incredibly short distance up to the hob? I'd prefer to use a braided hose.
 
Also, is it necessary to use a copper pipe for the incredibly short distance up to the hob? I'd prefer to use a braided hose.

I'm not qualified in any way, but I would think preferably better to have as few joints as possible. One at the reg and one at the hob is the best it could be. I would want to have the hose clipped somewhere so that it can't pull on the hob connector though.
 
There are regualations stating maximum length of flexible hose allowed, etc. (I think it may be 1M max?)

FWIW, I am not a gas person either and also have the same opinion as St3v3 there - minimise the joints is always a good idea - and two is the smallest possible! In my T5 conversion, I did just as suggested ... had a short length of approved hose from Hob inlet to CampingGaz blue regulator, and screwed in a 907 cylinder placed under the hob in the cupboard when I wanted to use the hob. Worked fine for me :)
 
I think it will be okay but I am. I expert either. Think the length of flex is 1.5mtrs but that’s not inside.
I don’t think it would follow any good practice though.
Give Charlie a call at Autogas, he will tell you then you can decide 👍
 
i would however use common sense when installing ;-
use good quality hose clips
fix the bottle in place
make provision for any leaked gas to run away , either drop out holes of min 40mm,or remove a bit of rubber off the bottom of the SLD
ensure flexi pipe is in date ,and protected against any heat source
do a leak check on every joint every ouple of months
 
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I don't particularly want to use a bulkhead regulator, so would it be OK to use a 907 Campingaz cylinder with bottle-top regulator?
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Have you researched the cost of 907s versus other options? Also, bear in mind that butane does not work well at low temperatures.
 
On our last homebuild we had two 907's in the cylinder box(one spare), a bottle mounted reg and braided hose, as above don't forget the gas drop outs, and best if you make sure it's easy to turn off the cylinder when you need to.
907's are OK if you are not using a lot of gas, and they are exchangeable across much of europe.
 
Thanks guys for your kind replies. You're all talking sense.
But from what I can gather, the "Standard" requires copper pipe from the fixed appliance. However if your appliance is portable, flexible is permissible with a "short length".
Most large van conversions seem to have the gas bottle in the garage area, meaning a long copper line to all the appliances. But mine is more minimalist.
I suggested the 907 because you can screw on the regulator. I know you can get clip-on ones for standard bottles, but I don't fancy clip-on.
Yes 907 is more expensive. And butane is less versatile.
If I go down the proposed route I'll be in non-conformance with the non-bulkhead regulator and with the flexible from the hob.
 
Are you using gas for anything else or just the Hob? if just for cooking the 907 should last a decent amount of time (I got a pair of 907s with gas for free from the local recycler when I had my T5. I left one of them in the van when I sold it and I still have the other. Total gas price = £0.00)
 
Buy the vale for the clip off in advance, bigger gas locker so when you run out you can swap to 7.5 or bigger that they have in stock. If you carry only 1 cylinder.
 
I suggested the 907 because you can screw on the regulator. I know you can get clip-on ones for standard bottles, but I don't fancy clip-on.

I would note that changing cylinders with screw on regulators is slightly more 'complex' when the hose is fixed in place, with our old set up I could lift cylinder and hose out of cabinet, then holding regulator, unscrew the cylinder and screw in new cylinder and replace in cabinet, if you are a clumsy person might not be easy. This takes a few minutes to do, and you can put money on the gas running out when it's peeing down outside, which might be a PITA with your proposed set up, a clip on is dead easy to change.
 
I have that set up with the 907 bottles at the sliding door. I used copper pipe from the cooker to a bulkhead mounted nozzle for the flexible pipe to the cylinder.
OK, so does the bulkhead take the form of the gas-tight box? Copper pipe going into a bulkhead fitting on the box, and flexible into the cylinder?
 

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